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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys I have a chance to trade the 16,000mi 96 F3 I just got ( for dirt cheap) for a 95 900rr. Yes it has 44,000mi on it and bike has been rebuilt. But I have always wanted a 900rr. My F3 could use new plastics almost all of them but is mech. sound and runs well. The owner says 900rr needs carbs rebuilt but looks very nice . Polished frame and wheels and plastics are very nice. He got a quote to rebuild carbs for $800. I am a fairly mech. guy and into cars and drag race so might tackle that myself. I guess I would like to know what you guys think and if there is any thing I should look for as far as problem areas or anything like that on the 900rr. He said it runs decent and is still very fast even though carbs need rebuild. I just want it to run decent enough to ride rest of the summer then work on carbs over winter. I am gonna have to put money into my bike for plastics so rather spend the money on the 900rrs carbs. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated. Thx
 

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Ok guys I have a chance to trade the 16,000mi 96 F3 I just got ( for dirt cheap) for a 95 900rr. Yes it has 44,000mi on it and bikehas been rebuilt. But I have always wanted a 900rr. My F3 could use new plastics almost all of them but is mech. sound and runs well. The owner says 900rr needs carbs rebuilt but looks very nice . Polished frame and wheels and plastics are very nice. He got a quote to rebuild carbs for $800. I am a fairly mech. guy and into cars and drag race so might tackle that myself. I guess I would like to know what you guys think and if there is any thing I should look for as far as problem areas or anything like that on the 900rr. He said it runs decent and is still very fast even though carbs need rebuild. I just want it to run decent enough to ride rest of the summer then work on carbs over winter. I am gonna have to put money into my bike for plastics so rather spend the money on the 900rrs carbs. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated. Thx

hummm???? why is he trading you:idunno: ride that thing first!!!!!!! 44,000 is not bad, but 16,000 on a f3 is great! your title is clean right, his is not? look for everthing!!!! I love those 900rr's there sweet ;-) but if you want it, get it:D;):thumb: just talk him down! with everthing you can find, look to see if he polished it to get rid of marks from it going down ect! point it out!
I would most likely trade the f3 for a 900rr
 

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800$ for a carb tune, on a bike which starts and runs? Really?!

You can clean carbs up yourself for way less. Should cost around 10$ for a couple cans of cleaning spray and an afternoon without distractions. Easy.

Too much bike for a novice is a valid concern. A 900 will be way less forgiving of any clumsy riding than a 600.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok 1st $800 is to completely rebulid carbs. Not just tune em. He said bike cruises fine but when ya get on it, it runs little rough. Not a novice here. I had a 92 F2 for several yrs. when I was younger. I am 43 now and totally respect what one of these bikes is capable of and know what to expect from the bigger bike. I am 5'9" and a somewhat solid 225lbs so don't think the 900rr is gonna be too big for me. Here is the bike I am looking to trade for. (Really leaning towards it at this point. )

 

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Still 800$ is crazy money. You could even get a whole set of gaskets most of which won't need replaced and come out with a whole lot of change. Or buy a set froma crashed bike for like $100 and just fit them or make a good set from both.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Going tomorrow. 900rr was in the shop getting new rectifer and they weren't open for him to get bike Sat. so we could do deal Sun. If all goes well should being riding it home around noon tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok got bike today. And of course it didn't even make it home. UGH!! I swapped out his battery for my almost brand new AGM. Well its a 20min. ride home. Well got about 4 blocks from my house and thing puked out and died. Popped clutch and it fired again then died and wouldn't start as battery was pretty much dead. Had my son bring me a jump start box and fired right up and rode home. But he just goit it back from the shop with receipt that they put in new stator and rectifier????? WTF??
 

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Ok got bike today. And of course it didn't even make it home. UGH!! I swapped out his battery for my almost brand new AGM. Well its a 20min. ride home. Well got about 4 blocks from my house and thing puked out and died. Popped clutch and it fired again then died and wouldn't start as battery was pretty much dead. Had my son bring me a jump start box and fired right up and rode home. But he just goit it back from the shop with receipt that they put in new stator and rectifier????? WTF??
that's kinda what I was afraid of! man, that sucks! so you knew it had charging issues??? that's one of the main issues with some of these bikes!
 

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have the carbs done the rebuild is easy but the sync. is a pain. and you can find some one to do the for far less sounds like he had sucker writen on his forhead when he went in. pay close att. to the fork seals and head set. people like these for wheelie bikes and they take a pounding. I have an RRs and will not part with it. it is a great bike.
 

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this is a common prob. spend the extra $ and buy a rick's. the charging is the only issue I had with mine.
 

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Go through and check the plugs all, the earths all, and the general condition of the wiring.

If needed you can get all the plugs you need to replace, or just hardwire with solder.

My preferred solution would be fit the regulator on the left side, run the shortest possible wire from the stator to the regulator direct into the plug, and replace the other two with a 30A fuse to the battery +ve, and a nice thick cable direct to the battery negative.

I'll get round to this on my own bike eventually, but it's one of those things that's tough to find motivation for while it's working.

Do the above work on known good components, and you eliminate the chance that any original wiring is melted or corroded and causing your issues. Hit it with the big hammer first, saves time and money in the end.

Consider a bigger, stronger regulator for example MOSFET kit off eBay, which have everything you need to wire up as I described.

Man I'm not surprised he wanted it gone. If you'd mentioned known or suspected electrical issues in the first post we'd have probably told you to walk away.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well he had a receipt from where he just picked bike up this morning from cycle dealer( Yamaha though. LOL) that put brand new rectifier on the bike. I called and talked to tech who did the work. He filled me in on what he thought problem was and that bike needed work. I said I knew that. Well he told me bike was charging fine when it left but plug for rect. was gone and just had spade connectors hooking it up and he suggest getting new plug but check there 1st. Well one of the spade connectors did not get crimped well if at all and wire was almost completely out of it. So crimped new connector on and pretty sure that was problem. Gonna go to Honda shop tomorrow and get new correct rect. connector and solder wires then shrink wrap em and make sure its done right. Spent afternoon getting all the little bolts and nuts put on bike that it was missing . Then fixed shifter kinkage as it was messed up as shifter itself was way way lower than the one on my F3. SO took arm off and fixed it so lever sits where it should. Now only cpl concerns is when bike is running and clutch is not pulled back it sounds like motor has a knock. I am sure its in transmission as soon as I pull clutch lever it goes away just wondering what it can be. Hint Hint. What ya guys think it is? As far as carb deal goes bike runs pretty well and pulls hard but when yo are at higher rpms right before ya shift it boggs badly. But up until that it pulls hard. Throttle wheelies in 1 gear very easily. LOL Well thx for all the replkies and so far pretty happy, If anyone has any ides about carbs issue or the knocking sound when clutch lever is let out and bike is in N. Pl ease feel free to share. BTW. I only had $600 in the F3 I traded for the 900rr. SO fell I did alright.
 

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The connector isn't available as a separate spare.

If the new regulator is a quality one worth keeping then get one of these kits:
R/R Connectors
Scroll down to "Generic 5 Pin R/R Connector Type"

There are Hong Kong pre-wired kits available but IDK if I'd trust whatever crappy wire they chose to use. Eastern Beaver does this connector and while you're there you can get enough wire to rewire as I've described above, you might as well while you're in there. If the plug has melted it will be because, or about to cause, corrosion in the wires, so replace them.

Chop the stator wire back til you get nice shiny copper, fit a new 3-pin (Metri-Pack) plug, and again fresh wire into your new 5-pin plug. From the 5-pin plug, nice fresh wire to a ring clip on the battery negative, and again from the regulator either through a 30a inline fuse to the positive, or to the original fuse holder (but these are known to corrode at the terminals over time).

Depends how much time/effort/money you'll put in now or later ;) and how bad it is already, or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Amorti Just called Honda dealer today and they told me they have the plug. There are brand new stator wires on the bike that that the shope that did the work on it installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
well I am going tomorrow to pick it up. If its right I will post up part no for sure or let you know if its aftermarket. I know this bike has some wiring issues that I will address. Side stand light comes on but does not kill bike like it should. Neutral light is on constantly. Lol and has no high beams. Well at least I don think so. Never had a 2 headlight bike before. LOL Are both lights supposed to be on when low beams are on? Because they are. Then when I flip high beams on they both go out.
 

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Hmm, sounds like you've bought yourself a project right there.

The neutral light has power to it, runs into the clutch diode, and lights when the bike is in gear, as the switch then allows the power to earth. Could be the wire into the switch is chafed and always earthing, or the switch could be no good. The switch is just under the sprocket cover, it will be dirty. Similar idea on the stand light, it has power and should earth through the stand switch.

Thing is all these things could maybe be connected through the safety circuit. It is the kind of thing that can get confusing, but go at it with a diagram and meter and you'll get there in the end. Have some spare fuses ready!

The headlights should both be on for both filaments. Maybe you have a bad relay, maybe a bad switchgear. Does pressing the passing button cause a quiet clicking noise under the fairing, as of a relay clicking?
 
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