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Discussion Starter #1
I am having a problem with my 929 charging. At low RPM my bike will not charge. If I ride around switching gears around 4,000 RPM or let the bike idle for a few a little while my battery will die. But if i ride around at HIGH RPMS the battery remains charged. I recently changed the stator and the battery. I know i still have the rectifier left to change but if that was totally burnt up i would be getting no charge right?

Also if I let the bike sit for a few days the Battery is dead?

With the Multi meter on the terminals and RPM high the highest reading i have got is around 13 somthing.

Any advise will help>.>...
 

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I am having a problem with my 929 charging. At low RPM my bike will not charge. If I ride around switching gears around 4,000 RPM or let the bike idle for a few a little while my battery will die. But if i ride around at HIGH RPMS the battery remains charged. I recently changed the stator and the battery. I know i still have the rectifier left to change but if that was totally burnt up i would be getting no charge right?

Also if I let the bike sit for a few days the Battery is dead?

With the Multi meter on the terminals and RPM high the highest reading i have got is around 13 somthing.

Any advise will help>.>...

Do the tests on the stator from the manual.
My guess is you're barely charging on just one phase.
Does the stator connector look bad?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Brand New Stator.... post are beautiful... The stator was replaced and the problem is still there... the RR looks great to...I took it off and took it up to the honda shop to get a new one and they said if the back of the RR is not melted its still good...
 

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Brand New Stator.... post are beautiful... The stator was replaced and the problem is still there... the RR looks great to...I took it off and took it up to the honda shop to get a new one and they said if the back of the RR is not melted its still good...

Do the tests in the manual to determine if the stator is producing current.
If it checks out, then do the tests on the regulator. Either one of them is bad or you have bad wiring somewhere in the circuit.
I'd find a better shop if that's how they test a regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok here is an update..... and this might come off as crazy... i just checked my volts again bike is idling at 14. Somthing but that is with very low oil.... last week when i checked the voltage my oil level was full.... could the oil be creating a problem between my stator and somthing else? possible the rotor..?
 

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Ok here is an update..... and this might come off as crazy... i just checked my volts again bike is idling at 14. Somthing but that is with very low oil.... last week when i checked the voltage my oil level was full.... could the oil be creating a problem between my stator and somthing else? possible the rotor..?

14V is still too low.
Oil isn't going to affect it but I'd be investigating how you lost so much oil in one week.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
correction its at 14.57.... I drained some oil to test to see... ive read somewhere that the rotor has to have sufficient magnatism to energise the stator coils and didnt know if the oil might be affecting a low magnatism... Ive never heard of that before tonight... im just ready to ride with no worries
 

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correction its at 14.57.... I drained some oil to test to see... ive read somewhere that the rotor has to have sufficient magnatism to energise the stator coils and didnt know if the oil might be affecting a low magnatism... Ive never heard of that before tonight... im just ready to ride with no worries

Then it sounds like it's charging fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ya i know its weird.. if i go ride around for a little while at low RPMs it will die and the gage cluster dims then goes completly out... I cant figure it out...
 

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Ya i know its weird.. if i go ride around for a little while at low RPMs it will die and the gage cluster dims then goes completly out... I cant figure it out...

I suggest wiring your multimeter to the battery terminals and taping it to the tank. Then you can monitor the voltage and see when it's playing up.
 

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Brand New Stator.... post are beautiful... The stator was replaced and the problem is still there... the RR looks great to...I took it off and took it up to the honda shop to get a new one and they said if the back of the RR is not melted its still good...
The RR's are solid state so you won't know if the internals are fried, and you can't take it apart. Over heating and melting is only of many ways a RR can fail.
 

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Could the RR be pushing to much power to my battery if it is bad? Once again thank you for all yalls help...
Yes, it could be.
That's why you need to do the tests detailed in the manual...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update: Ok so i changed the stator twice and the RR still the same issue.... Its in the shop right now and was diagnosed as a bad Stator... is there anything else other then the RR that can be shorting out by stator...
 

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If you have changed the stator and rectifier and still having issues it looks like someting else is causing these components to fail.
Wireing?
Bad earths can cause problems with the charging system.
 

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Demagnatised rotor, (very likely), wrong air gap rotor to stator, melted/shorting stator output wires inside alternator case. Faulty R/R when hot (likely).
 
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