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Discussion Starter #1
I've just got round to fitting a PT Racing "universal" master cylinder (19mm bore) to my '01 929 and as luck would have it, there isn't enough space for the whole assembly with the original throttle/kill switch.

So, this means I'll have to get a separate throttle and kill switch unit...my options are:

1) Throttle housing and kill switch from a 1000RR
2) HRC quick action throttle and kill switch from another Honda

Questions in the back of my mind are...

1) Will my 929 throttle (the plastic bit) fit inside (and work) with the 1000 RR metal housing?
2) Which HRC quick action throttle do I get....the one for the 600RR...?

And the BIG QUESTION is....which kill switch will be a "plug and play" (instead of "splice and dice") replacement for the ORM one?

Any help would really be appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Just found that an HRC quick action throttle would mean new push/pull throttle cables...

I'm leaning more towards the 1000RR option....would anyone know if a RC51 kill switch and throttle housing would work on a 929?
 

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Just found that an HRC quick action throttle would mean new push/pull throttle cables...

I'm leaning more towards the 1000RR option....would anyone know if a RC51 kill switch and throttle housing would work on a 929?
I've seen them but I'd be surprised if you don't need to re-wire the connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've seen them but I'd be surprised if you don't need to re-wire the connector.
You're right, it will probably need re-wiring....oh well, means it will just take longer!

Do you think the 929 plastic throttle bit will fit inside a 1000RR metal housing?
 

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Do you think the 929 plastic throttle bit will fit inside a 1000RR metal housing?
I would expect it to fit but why not just use the 1000RR anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I would use one from a 1000RR except I'm having trouble sourcing one over here in Portugal, which isn't at OEM prices!

In fact, most parts I'll be getting from eBay (UK) and I've settled on these:

--> Switchgear (kill switch) from a 1000RR: Will need re-wiring for the 929
--> Throttle housing from a 1000RR: Lets hope it fits!

Hopefully this will give me enough space on the handlebar to properly fit the PT Racing master cylinder:

http://i12.ebayimg.com/02/i/001/35/5b/0273_1.JPG
http://shop.durbahn.de/shopimgs/344.jpg

If you take a look at the photo, there's a slight "lip" on the right hand side of the master cylinder which makes it impossible to fit with the standard switchgear. Also, the massive size of the OEM switchgear means the brake lever would press up against it under braking anyway!
 

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Also, the massive size of the OEM switchgear means the brake lever would press up against it under braking anyway!
Kawasaki also use the seperate killswitch thottle housing.
 

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Hi Bladeracer, so does the 1000rr HRC quick throttle kit fit the 929 as im having trouble one for my 929?
I really couldn't tell you.
I only tried a shorter-throw once and didn't like it.
I can't see any reason why you couldn't run whatever throttle housing you want though.
 

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or... sell your mc and get another model MC? I had the same issue w/ a brembo and 1000rr mc, eventually used a 07-08 ZX10R MC which had a narrow clamping area.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Hey everyone,

Digging this thread out again as I've got a bit more news on my quest to fit a PT Racing m/c to my 929!

About two weeks ago I managed to source RHS (right hand side) switchgear and a throttle housing from an RC51 (VTR SP1 here in Europe), fitted it all up nicely although I had to move the throttle a little bit out from its normal position.

The big headache, which I didn't know at the time, was the banjo bolt. Just to recap, the PT Racing billet m/c (other makes such as Brembo might be the same) hasn't got a brake light switch so I had to use a Goodridge Double Banjo Bolt with a pressure switch to get a working front brake light. Basically its just a normal double banjo bolt with a sealed pressure switch on the hex end of the bolt, two wires come off it which then connect to the normal brake light wiring. I wired it all up and worked first time...so I though: great!

Friday I took the bike to work just for a "shake down" run as I had a track day the following day and noticed a little bit of break fluid leaking from the small gap where the pressure switch fits into the banjo bolt....I couldn't believe my bad luck! Rushed to a parts dealer after work and bought a regular double banjo bolt which ended up being too long....DAMN.

To cut the story short, between risking the pressure switch popping out after 3-4 sessions (and myself ending up in hospital) and sacrificing the braking performance....I ended sacrificing performance and fitting the 929's original m/c at 10.00 the night before the track day.

I've already bought a proper (M10x1.0) double banjo bolt which is the correct length but of course I'll be left without a working front brake light for the road...

....any ideas on how to get a front brake light switch working WITHOUT a stupid pressure switch?
 

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To cut the story short, between risking the pressure switch popping out after 3-4 sessions (and myself ending up in hospital) and sacrificing the braking performance....I ended sacrificing performance and fitting the 929's original m/c at 10.00 the night before the track day.
First up, I don't believe you have sacrificed any performance at all by using the OEM master cylinder over an aftermarket one whether radial or not - unless there's something wrong with it of course.
There isn't anywhere on the master cylinder where you can drill and tap some holes for the OEM switch? Maybe you can make a bracket you can screw into the bottom of the switch block and suspend the switch under the lever? That way you could remove it for track usage if preferred.
Can you silicone two bared wires under the lever to make (or break) contact when you move the lever?
I haven't seen a pressure switch banjo bolt myself but if it's possible for the switch to come out that's a very poor design indeed.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The performance difference would be in the diameter of the m/c itself, if I'm not mistaken (but I very well could be) the PT Racing one is 19mm. When I rode it to work there was a noticable difference between the pressure applied on the lever vs the braking force transmitted to the calipers. Reminded me of my light Aprilia RS125 with sintered pads!

Here's an image of a banjo bolt with a pressure switch: http://www.startright.co.uk/images/Goodridge brake pressure switch.JPG
 

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The performance difference would be in the diameter of the m/c itself, if I'm not mistaken (but I very well could be) the PT Racing one is 19mm. When I rode it to work there was a noticable difference between the pressure applied on the lever vs the braking force transmitted to the calipers. Reminded me of my light Aprilia RS125 with sintered pads!

Here's an image of a banjo bolt with a pressure switch: http://www.startright.co.uk/images/Goodridge%20brake%20pressure%20switch.JPG
A different size piston would provide "different" performance but not necessarily "better" performance. You may well prefer one over the other of course. You basically give up feel for power or power for feel.
I'd rather see a cutaway showing how the switch is fitted. I would've thought the only secure way would require inserting the switch in from the threaded end. If it is fitted into the bolt externally what is supposed to hold it in place against hundreds of psi of braking pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If it is fitted into the bolt externally what is supposed to hold in place against hundreds of psi of braking pressure?
My thoughts exactly!

I've got one which is pretty much dead so I'll have a go at sectioning it with a Dremmel...
 
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