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HELP!!! MY BLADE IS BROKEN

1859 Views 13 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  briggy
Hi all,

I have a problem with my 94 fireblade.

I was riding down the highway and noticed the lights dim/flicker, not really noticable, kept riding on.

Went to a serivice station for a drink. Bike wouldnt start. No headlight, speedo lights etc dimmed.

After numerous attempts got it jump started, speedo went crazy, bike was spluttering due to locked open throttle due to bar end catching, then finally rev up to high rpm and stopped.

I can jump the bike and it will idle, headlight isnt working and bike cuts out at around 1500 rpm.

Please Help!!!
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sounds like your stator took a dump to me. Kindof the same symptoms on an auto. Alternator dies engine drains battery, everything dims and dies.
sounds like your stator took a dump to me. Kindof the same symptoms on an auto. Alternator dies engine drains battery, everything dims and dies.
CBR954 sounds right to me... bad stator
sounds good, but...

believe a dying battery will give the same symptoms....
I would check that out first before replacing anything else
sounds good, but...

believe a dying battery will give the same symptoms....
I would check that out first before replacing anything else

True :plus1:
sounds like mine

got a new battery, problem continued (since i was in need of a new battery anyway i kept it) turned out to be a bad stator...good to go
This is ironic, I had the same problem this morning. Same symptoms, I figure it's a bad stator or rectifier. Is there a way to tell which one it is, this way I dont' go out and buy the wrong part.
just had the bike shop call me.

Bad battery and rectifier.

$477 fitted, sound a bit dear??

Cheers

E
There's no need to pay a bike shop to fit a new battery and R/R, they've got to be the easiest things to replace - one step up from checking the oil!

Besides, the general consensus is that the stator might be the culprit - the problem I've found with this type of problem is that it's often trial and (expensive) error to try and diagnose / fix it.

Still, if it turns out not to be the battery or R/R they are useful spares to have, batteries don't last forever and R/R's are known to fail on Hondas anyway.
got this off the cbr forum, pretty detailed and helps seperate stator, vs r/r problems. All you need is a twenty dollar ohm meter.


http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
just had the bike shop call me.

Bad battery and rectifier.

$477 fitted, sound a bit dear??

Cheers

E
dont take it to a shop, save money...if you know how to use a screwdriver you can do that yourself in 10 minutes...:patriot:
I had issues with my 94/5 blade - couldn't work out whether it was battery, rectifier or stator..

In order to check the rectifier you need a good battery and good connections, so check these first... - if battery is suspect replace, if good but a bit low recharge first..

Haynes manual provides data on how to test the rectifer from there.... Will need a good multi meter.

I tested the rectifier by swapping it out with one from a fellow blade owner's bike... all good so bought a second hand one from a reputable bike breakers (circa oz$70 - but could probably get cheaper on ebay etc).

I have had this issue on vfr 750 also - fixed same way.....

Maybe there are some blade owners in Melbourne on this site that could help.....

Can't offer any advice on stator....my bike was fixed at the rectifier....

Good luck
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hey all,

Going to get the shop to do it. Got the price reduced.

I have heard suspect things about aftermaket rectifiers, plus the shop will back up the oem rectifier if it fails.

I need a good battery ($140) and the rectifier ($180) so not really too stressed about the bike shop doing it.

Plus they picked up my bike. Plus I have a 2 year old and 8 weeks old to help with. Surprised I even get to ride.

E
I just went out and bought a 2001 R1 Rectifier (see link). Like you I came to the conclusion the after market (ricks and electro) were questionable. Problem though is the Honda Rectifiers over heat and even the new model with heat sinks are pronged to fail. On comparison they both look the same except the R1 R/R has some much larger cooling fins, and is about $60 cheaper than the honda R/R.

About: Changing the Honda Reg/Rect
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