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Discussion Starter #1
I'm searching for somewhere to purchase a rear axle nut to drill for safety wiring, or purchase a pre-drilled axle nut.

Question - does anyone know where to buy a spare rear axle nut for a 929, I searched Ron Ayers but couldn't locate one. I usually like to drill (practice) on a spare axle nut or oil drain plug in case I screw up. BTW, I like the LP predrilled oil drain plug.

Also, can or has anyone used a "R" clip through the axle? Doesn't appear to be enough thread room at the end of the axle unless there is a modified rear axle nut but then, do you just drill several holes to match up the clip when nut is torqued?

Thanks
 

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SuperDave said:
Also, can or has anyone used a "R" clip through the axle? Doesn't appear to be enough thread room at the end of the axle unless there is a modified rear axle nut but then, do you just drill several holes to match up the clip when nut is torqued?

Thanks
I was going to look for a castle nut at the hardware store to do this myself but haven't gotten around to it yet.
 

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SuperDave said:
I'm searching for somewhere to purchase a rear axle nut to drill for safety wiring, or purchase a pre-drilled axle nut.

Question - does anyone know where to buy a spare rear axle nut for a 929, I searched Ron Ayers but couldn't locate one. I usually like to drill (practice) on a spare axle nut or oil drain plug in case I screw up. BTW, I like the LP predrilled oil drain plug.

Also, can or has anyone used a "R" clip through the axle? Doesn't appear to be enough thread room at the end of the axle unless there is a modified rear axle nut but then, do you just drill several holes to match up the clip when nut is torqued?

Thanks
I can't really speak for the Hondas, but the Canadian version of the Suzukis comes with a castle nut and a cotter pin, so maybe the hondas will be the same. Maybe if you tried a Canadian dealer he could fix you up.

The biggest Honda dealer I know in this area is Hully Gully in London, ON.

Clich Here

I'm with you, I like to wire everything as a best practice too.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. So how does the castle nut with cotter pin work as far as access holes in the axle? What I mean is, are there several possible holes in the axle end that the cotter pin lines up with in case a slot of the castle nut possibly covers the hole that the cotter pin would go through?

Sorry if these sound like dumb questions, just trying to get my safety wire requirements done for Nelson Ledges practice days.
 

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conqsoft wired his 929rr back in the day. See if you can see it in his gallery.

And you should be able to get a new nut from servicehonda or partsfish without much problem...
 

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My plan was to torque the nut on properly, mark the axel and then drill one hole. I don't see why one hole wouldn't work as long as the nut were to be correctly torqued when marked. :idunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
cbr99xx said:
My plan was to torque the nut on properly, mark the axel and then drill one hole. I don't see why one hole wouldn't work as long as the nut were to be correctly torqued when marked. :idunno:
Seems as if the nut may not line up perfectly everytime you put it on. Know what I mean? Although the torque setting is constant, that doesn't mean that the hole will line up consistantly everytime you tighten the axle nut (whether adjusting chain or putting on new tire) to exactly where the cotter pin goes through. :idunno:

cc - I'll check Partsfish again but couldn't find it there before. Never thought about it but I guess I'll call the dealer to see how much they can get one for.

EDIT: I saw Conq's gallery picture of the wire job, I guess the location is consitant. Good to see your gallery pics of the 929 are still there Conq!
 

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SuperDave said:
Seems as if the nut may not line up perfectly everytime you put it on. Know what I mean? Although the torque setting is constant, that doesn't mean that the hole will line up consistantly everytime you tighten the axle nut (whether adjusting chain or putting on new tire) to exactly where the cotter pin goes through. :idunno:

cc - I'll check Partsfish again but couldn't find it there before. Never thought about it but I guess I'll call the dealer to see how much they can get one for.

The castle nut has many slots to line up with this one hole but I'd be willing to bet that you will be using the same slot everytime.

Ever replace the wheel bearings on a car? Same principal, one hole in the spindle used in conjunction with a castle nut. Only difference would be that on a car when the bearings seat you may have to use a different slot in the castle nut.

The reason that I was going this route was to avoid having to saftey wire everytime I changed rubber. Wire the clip and that's it. :idunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
cbr99xx said:
The castle nut has many slots to line up with this one hole but I'd be willing to bet that you will be using the same slot everytime.

Ever replace the wheel bearings on a car? Same principal, one hole in the spindle used in conjunction with a castle nut. Only difference would be that on a car when the bearings seat you may have to use a different slot in the castle nut.

The reason that I was going this route was to avoid having to saftey wire everytime I changed rubber. Wire the clip and that's it. :idunno:
I see what your saying cbr99, about the lining up. As to rewiring each time, I don't mind safety wiring each time, I just wanted to explore the R clip/castle nut/cotter pin option as Nelson Ledges actually "technically" requires both. If I safety wire the axle nut I think Bob would accept that.

Seeing Conq's wire job, this thread may be much to do about nothing, but I did call the dealer and they can order one for $9.00

Part No. 90305-MAZ-000

Thanks to all.
 

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Heres one for ya. Last winter I did what you are talking about. Drilled a hole through both the axle and nut. Used a large 'R' clip and safety wired the end of it. Come summer, as all the metals were warmer and have expanded ever so slightly, the holes didn't line up anymore. Easy, I retorqued it and redrilled some holes. So whatever the temp, it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
CBRBob said:
Heres one for ya. Last winter I did what you are talking about. Drilled a hole through both the axle and nut. Used a large 'R' clip and safety wired the end of it. Come summer, as all the metals were warmer and have expanded ever so slightly, the holes didn't line up anymore. Easy, I retorqued it and redrilled some holes. So whatever the temp, it works.
Hmm, that's sorta what I was worried about. I wouldn't have thought the summer and heat would have expanded it well enough to no longer match up. I'm a little leery on doing this (drilling through threads and axle) as it seems with me, what can go wrong usally does. :crap: (example - it only took me 5 hours to get my new 520 chain on, rivet tool did not have the pin extractor(?). After dremeling the head off I couldn't get the pin out. I ended up running out and purchasing a bench vice and used different pieces and parts to finally press out the link to fit my install! Damn, those pins do not come out easy, without the right tools that is. :crap: )
 

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SuperDave said:
I'm searching for somewhere to purchase a rear axle nut to drill for safety wiring, or purchase a pre-drilled axle nut.
I am pretty sure I have a spare axle nut you can have, if you still needed it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sirkbac said:
I am pretty sure I have a spare axle nut you can have, if you still needed it.
Thanks anyway, I appreciate the offer. I ordered one from the dealer just as a spare.
 

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Here is a pic....You see where it is in place. There is another set of holes that line up with the holes in the nut. You see on the end of the axle 2 small holes, they are my attempt at not drilling out the nut. There isn't enough to do that. Simple, it works
 

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Discussion Starter #15
CBRBob said:
Here is a pic....You see where it is in place. There is another set of holes that line up with the holes in the nut. You see on the end of the axle 2 small holes, they are my attempt at not drilling out the nut. There isn't enough to do that. Simple, it works
Thanks for the pic CBRBob, and the help. I may go that route or something similar. Excellent!
 

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CBRBob said:
Here is a pic....You see where it is in place. There is another set of holes that line up with the holes in the nut. You see on the end of the axle 2 small holes, they are my attempt at not drilling out the nut. There isn't enough to do that. Simple, it works
I do something similar to CBRBobs but I only go though the axle and not the nut.
 

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I went the Conq route and just drilled the a 1/16th hole through one of the corners of the axle nut. I wrapped a strand of safety wire around the axle adjuster bolt screwed into the swingarm, and then ran it through the axle nut and used the pliers on it. Worked like a champ all season long and passed Fasttrax and WERA regulations.
 
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