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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hey people, got another bike she is arriving wednesday. This time its a track 2001 929 for me on a daytime mot so we can ride here in the uk during daylight hours!-)

little bit about my biking, im 31 soon, passed my test in 2009. first bike was an nc30 vfr400, then in 8 months i bought a blue 2001 r1 (6 months later crashed on a bend at the redline in 2nd gear with 5 cars on the outside of me! eek), then a 1992 steel frame cbr600 trackbike which i only used on the road an found asmatic and heavy after the r1... soon i had a red 2001 r1 which was never as quick as my first one (at least it felt that way)... last bike was a 2008 mk2 superduke, loved it but had no top end and was alot of money to leave sitting in the garage for 4 months of bad uk weather.(i am a fair weather pleasure rider only)... done 1 trackday 2 weeks after crashing on the patched up blue r1, needless to say i was very slow!-)

this brings me to now, i rode a friends 929 back when i had my vfr and loved it so thought i would give it a go. new bike has mx bars ontop so should feel superdukish? just loved the look of this one! im toying with idea of going full streetfighter.

i know only an idiot would call one slow but are they that much slower than an r1 from the same year, they both had factory quoted 150bhp at the crank right? the main reason i went blade this time is what all the reviews back then seemed to miss in my opinion, the blade is the most forgiving and easy to ride fast... the r1's are easy to kill yourself on nearly in my opinion!-)

likeing the review of the 929 by john mcguinness where in his opinion it was the best 2001 superbike bike when tested them at the isle of man, this was a big factor in my choice, was there last year for the race week.... amazing!-)

one problem, tacho is stuck at 5500 rpm apparently a common fault? ive bought a new clock/headlight loom already.

one question, standard suspension settings anyone? or maybe a suggested setting for predictable road use?
 

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Hi and welcome. I have not got much advice but just wanted to say hi to a fellow UK rider.
I am sure there will be plenty of people to help you with your questions I have found this to be the case with my questions.
I had my first crash 2 weeks ago some old dude decided to pull out and stick his car in front of my 1994 Blade and I went over his bonnet at 50mph, so I went out and brought a 1995 urban tiger the next day (always loved that colour scheme).
I am a massive fan of Blades but do prefer the early models. People say they are too fat especially the rear end but I love them and after all everyone should thank Honda for changing sports bikes into what they are today.
Best of luck
 

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Discussion Starter #3
cheers, and ouch! glad you are ok... i have a 2 month old so hopefully (touch wood) people have their eyes open around me and i have my spider sense fully engaged lol... not rode for a year!! sat on my mates (same one who had the 929) 1999 and i liked that, felt alot lighter than it looked thats for sure!
 

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Congrats on becoming a dad Mine is 3 now and he likes to help me put mine away at night he sits on the tank and we ride down the drive into the garage he loves it.
 

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Still a lovely 929! I don't think I can, in my right mind, support going 'fighter.. but that's personal preference.

Front suspension (starting points)
Preload- 30mm sag w/o rider (about 3 lines showing)
Preload- 10mm rider/static sag
Compression- 2 turns out from full hard
Rebound- 1-1.5 turns from full in (fast)

Rear suspension (starting points)
Preload- 4th position (1 being lowest setting)
Compression- 2 turns out from full hard
Rebound- 1-1.5 turns from full fast


These are only the starting points! How you ride and your weight will affect what settings are "ideal" for you, along with feel.

Front- You should come back to the top of the travel within 1 second of hard compression (roll the bike slowly and grab a handful of brakes- should pop back up within about 1 second). Compression- zip ties on the forks will show you how far down the forks are traveling, set them so that even under moderate/heavy breaking they do not go past the bottom 1/4 or so of available travel. Ideally your forks will stay in the middle 1/3rd of travel giving lots of room for travel and emergencies.

Rear end- same deal with rebound. You want it to return within about a second to its top travel, but not so fast that it takes weight off the rear tyre. Compression on the rear is (I think) a matter of feel as long as you do not bottom out. Play with your compression setting to where she will squat a little in the corners (load up). Play with your settings very gradually until you get the most feedback and comfort in the bends with her. It took me about 3 weeks on my 954 making very minute adjustments as desired.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thats great demon, exactly what I was after!-) im about 85kg btw so pretty average I would think... hopefulky she is a good bike, bought it blind from the other end of the uk! From a dealer that has worked within motorsport tho so hopefully its As straight as he says!
 

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I'm not sure what springs the 29s had in them from the factory, but I'd recommend moving up to about 1.0kg/mm spring rates in your forks. Most of these bikes are sprung for a skinny person =) I think they average the riders out to 65kg when they release them from the factory.... I haven't been that light since middle school myself =P
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ok, thanks for the heads up bud, wondering if there are any hidden mods as them riser bars cant have been cheap... and mts exhausts, are they any good? ducati normally have them dont they?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks, she arrived today safe and well, just need some tax tomorrow then have a test ride=) she has good diablo super corsa's sc2 on the front couldnt see a stamp on the back but im guessing sc3...

just need too sort the tach now, gonna fit the new (used) clock/light loom i ordered first, if no joy anyone know what colour wires i need to check and what voltages?

the tach stays at 5000rpm, no movement on start up at all...
 

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I'm not entirely sure how the tach works... I think it reads a magnet on the crank? If so there is a sensor for it, and that may be bad... I would assume it simply sends a voltage signal to the tach that translates into a readout, if the sensor is bad it may be just sending the exact same voltage from start-up to, well forever. Try to isolate the sensor and unplug it to see if that changes the readout, if it does you know the problem is the sensor!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
good shout, also i filled her up today and the fuel light stays on aswell? maybe they are related, joint earth maybe!? i need to do some digging...

as far as the rest of the bike, she sounds a bit tappety but runs sweet, doesnt overheat, and heck you forget how fast these superbikes are after a spell on the superduke then a years break... insane lol... looking forward to a nice warm weekend now hopefully!-)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wasnt the clock loom, also there a four wires tied in to it going somewhere connected with spade connectors? Had the tank off to get them got petrol everywhere and now she wont start? Have I missed anything, maybe a tilt switch in the tank? Turns over fine just not fireing?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
right....!-) the four wires were bridging the main headlight loom plug??? why would someone do this, i can only assume due to bad connection inside the plug??? ive chopped them off now fitted the new loom.

The blinkers now flash fast, i have the led flasher relay on the other loom but it only connects to two wires, when connected to the two corresponding wires on the new loom no joy, where does the third wire need to be connected?

also the little screw in the tacho face was undone hence the needle being stuck at 5000rpm... its now at 0, fuel light is still on and tacho doesnt move... no obv signs of damage or corrosion inside? anyone have any pointers on this problem?
 
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