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Discussion Starter #1
Guys.
I thought I might post a picture of the quality of petrol we are exposed to today.
As you can see the 98ron petrol will not last long inside your tank so be careful.
Leave you bike for a month and it will start going off and leaving behind slight build up to block your carbie jets or seize your fuel pump and injectors.
These pictures of from my mate who rebuilds older carbie sets that dont like ethonal.
He rebuilds them completly with new rubber seals for the float chambers etc that have perished from the ethonal.
 

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Back in the '80's during the last big recession, bike sales were super slow.
Back then, practically 99% of bikes were carbed.
And when the factories tested each bike, they then drained the tank and carbs to crate for shipping. But not all the fuel was drained 100%.
After sitting in a warehouse for months, the fuel actually turned into a green substance like green sugar or salt.
Needless to say, it wrecked havoc on pilot jets.
Ultimately, Yamaha came with a solution that you cold mix with either water or fuel to dissolve the crud. They still make to this day.
For long term storage of a month or more, add Sta-Bil to your tank to stabilize the fuel.
 

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Right on. That Yamaha fuel system cleaner works like a charm. We use it on all our vintage carb bikes and our modern FI models that have been sitting a more than 60 days. If in doubt, drain what you have in the tank and mix your new fuel with the Yamaha product.
It's in their parts books if you don't see it on the shelf at the dealer. You may need to special order the stuff by part number but it's well worth the effort......
 

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i was told by a mechanic at the local honda shop not to put the yamaha stuff inside the tank.he said it would strip the inside of the tank:eek: . i havent used it so i cant say.
 

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The inside of a tank is bare metal. What is there to strip? I use Sta-Bil in my stuff for sure. And keep you tank full to the very top when storing for the winter months. It keeps air out of your tank and therefore keeps out the moisture in air.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The inside of a tank is bare metal. What is there to strip? I use Sta-Bil in my stuff for sure. And keep you tank full to the very top when storing for the winter months. It keeps air out of your tank and therefore keeps out the moisture in air.
Guys.
The best and cheapest way to stop your pump and injectors sticking is a bottle cap/Very small amount of Automatic oil in the tank.Mix with 20 litres and run your bike to get mixed into the systym and all done.Dont worry you dont get any smoke at all.
We used to and still do this to any roller drive fuel delivery systym from 25 years ago to stop the pump getting noisy and sticky.
With the introduction of unleaded fuel back in 85 it has got worse as no lubricate/Benzine in the fuel.
This will help to save your top end /Valves etc.
 

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Seafoam, period. Use it and you'll never use anything else to clean fuel system and combustion chamber. Buddy of mine runs VP U2 race fuel in his 1KRR outlaw bike. That stuff gummed up his motor so bad it actually seized some of the valves in the guides. Ran some Seafoam through it and cleared it all out. Stuff works like a miracle with no ill side effects.
 

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I love seafoam although I have no idea what makes it work. I started using stabil as a younger kid on my go cart and have trusted it ever since. I actually have it in my tank right now. I would bet after I re-install the battery that the bike fires right up. The bike has been sitting on the stands since December and the battery in the house on the tender. Damn winter with the snow, ice, cold, bad drivers, and salt on the roads.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I love seafoam although I have no idea what makes it work. I started using stabil as a younger kid on my go cart and have trusted it ever since. I actually have it in my tank right now. I would bet after I re-install the battery that the bike fires right up. The bike has been sitting on the stands since December and the battery in the house on the tender. Damn winter with the snow, ice, cold, bad drivers, and salt on the roads.
Guys.
Some explanation of seafoam and Stabil would be good.
Where do you get it/How much
Do they have any website links?.
I am a million miles away from you guys and never heard of it.I must add but it is 32/38 degrees in Sydney and no sign of snow at all.
Gearing up for a ride tomorrow with my mates/1 hour of twisting roads along side a river to a pub that sells really really cold beers.I will be thinking of you both.
 

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Yep the oil idea is a good one. I'm old/no-school so about every other month I add the Marvel Mystery Oil to all my bikes and cars.

Or you can mix 100cc of synthetic tranny oil with 100cc of mineral spirits and add that to a tank full of gas 3-6 times per year. Uknowhatimean?
 

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if you get the gas from a good station you will be fine for a couple months...it takes a very long time for gas to separate into its different parts...and even when they separate the lighter compounds just go into the air in the tank because of changes in temperature...with the vents on a motorcycle tank it would take a LONG time before you really lost the normal properties of the isooctane...not to mention..newer and better made gasses have additives that delay this process even more. Im not saying in 6 months that the gas wont loose a LITTLE bit of its isooctane or trimethylpentane(which is the high octane chemical in gas) but it wont loose enough to mess up the bike or cause it not to run. If it is a matter of 2-3 months i wouldnt worry...but if its 6mo or longer use the fuel stabilizer.

Also...if storing for a long period of time it is a good idea to add a small amount of high quality 2 cycle oil to the gas...somwthing in the ballpark of 125 parts gas/1 part oil...this will lubricate cylinder walls and carbs and safeguard any storage problems...with such a diluted mixture it will not hurt the injectors or anything in the bike...it will just help once the fuel in the lines and carbs and cylinders evaporate
 

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Guys.
Some explanation of seafoam and Stabil would be good.
Where do you get it/How much
Do they have any website links?.
I am a million miles away from you guys and never heard of it.I must add but it is 32/38 degrees in Sydney and no sign of snow at all.
Gearing up for a ride tomorrow with my mates/1 hour of twisting roads along side a river to a pub that sells really really cold beers.I will be thinking of you both.
Stabil is a fuel stabilizer for if you need to store your bike boat car or whatever runs on gas for an amount of time that would ruin the fuel and possible allow it to gum up your fuel system. No need for it if you get to start it and ride it regularly.
Seafoam pretty much claims to do it all. lol check this out. Sea Foam | Home. Thats www "dot" seafoamsales "dot" com.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
if you get the gas from a good station you will be fine for a couple months...it takes a very long time for gas to separate into its different parts...and even when they separate the lighter compounds just go into the air in the tank because of changes in temperature...with the vents on a motorcycle tank it would take a LONG time
The fuel that we exposed to in Australia will not last more than 2.5 months in storage/No way.
Once they added ethonal to 15% say goodbye.
They trialed it on the marine market first which is alot worse than the bikes for not using etc and there where blow ups everywhere.
We dont have 85% ethonal based fuel down here but from all reports this blend is even worse.
I think the trick is [USE IT OR LOOSE IT]
 

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Good thread! I've been maintaining and rebuilding, carbed bikes for over 25 years. I don't use Stabil. Stabil is good for winter storage in a hot climates to prevent the volatales from burning off. In the northern climates this is not so much of an issue. I've cleaned dirtbike carbs and moped carbs that have jets so small you can't get a needle through them. I'm not saying don't use Stabil it does prevent fuel from going stale but does not clean the damage done.

What I use is Sea Foam. This stuff was designed for the marine industry to clean boat fuel systems that typically sit in storage. One ounce per gallon. This is the only stuff I have found that melts the dried fuels residue. I've scraped previously cleaned carbs with dental picks and this stuff is the only off the shelf stuff that works. You can get a 10 oz can at the autoparts store.

I put an ounce or two in the drained tanks of each bike so it gets into the float bowls and fuel systems of each bike. Spring start up is great. The stuff is very strong. Nothing beats a good carb cleaning, but if you use this stuff you won't need to. Most carb cleaners are mid solvents. Carb cleaners are good at maintain a clean carb but won't touch the shelac type of residue that builds up after each year of storage. Don't ever use dry gas. Dry gas is hydroscopic which means it displaces moisture. This will eventually " leach" moisture through the fuel tanks and hardware leaving rust. (Pin hole rust)

Lubrication type cleaners like marvel mystery oil, Lucas products, and trans oil, lubricate and help remove carbon that builds up in the valve guides and help keep rings from sticking by removing carbon. This stuff is used a lot in piston driven aircraft that uses highly leaded fuels that carbon up valve guides to the point they stick. All good stuff that works well. Engines simply don't like to "dry out".
 

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Whats all this talk about?

I just put regular gas in mine and ride it all the time. I found riding it every few days really helps keep everything in perfect order. I suggest you do that before any of this other stuff. ;-)

Store you bike for the winter? Time to south.
 

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well if the gas gets replaced every week or so them you have nothing to worry about because the engine is always moving...always oiled...theres no time for gunk (thats the professional term) to form :)...true though..the best thing to do is at least start your engine at least once a week...it will work beter than anything else you could do...i mean its not gonna prevent then fuel from deteriorating but it will keep the carbs, injectors, cylinders, pistons, etc in good condition...
 

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Heat variation in storage places and therefore condensation adds water regularly to a standing still tank of fuel. Water presence with fuel creates a culture of bacteria that feeds of hydrocarbons on fuel and keeps growing. SeaFoam due to rising rates and extreme moisture near the water does exactly this; Helps water to mix better with the fuel and burn off and prohibit bacteria build-up (they live and die in there daily, hence the organic crud - don't drink water fish **** in it kind of thing :)

I like a little 2stroke oil in a tankful or ATF fluid, it helps clean out the fuel system, lubricates and helps o-rings and seals on its path, help brake up any carbon deposits, all the way through the exhaust. I have run up 200:1 on my 4strokes without any effects. Actually on most the bikes feel they run better in the consecutive refuelings.
Injection systems usually have high pressure and much better filtering since there is no problem with staving the engine due to filtration, as was the case with gravity fed carbs. But if you keep an injected bike for long periods of time in storage even at low mileage the filter should be changed more often than normal.
 

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Great info guys !!!!!:thumb: Not to change the subject or hijack but I have heard that high octane in the RC51 isn't a gain. In fact it's better with the lower grades??? :idunno: What's the facts on that? Hoovy
 

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Simply put Higher octane is better for "performance" motors as it requires higher compression before spontaneously combustion. You want combustion to occur at the cylinders high point where it's stroke is maximum. Lower octane may 'combust' early reducing the engine's output and causing the "pinging" sound heard. This is an overly simplified answer.. but hopefully suffices.
 

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Simply put Higher octane is better for "performance" motors as it requires higher compression ......
Since the RC51 has 10.8:1 instead of 12.8:1 of some later supersports it should be running well with less octane, which has more energy per volume than higher octane gas.
 
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