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Somebody here probaly knows...Whats the correct way to splice romex together. I'm doing a little remodeling job and managed to hit the only romex cable within 20 feet with the sawzall :) It impossable to replace the whole run as most of it is in the wall. Common sense says to wire nut it, but does it have to be in a J box to meet code? Even if its sealed in a wall?
 

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any splice made should be made in a sealed junction box in addition to the wire nuts.

read here:
Splice right. It's critical that you use the right splicing devices. If you don't use a listed splicing device, weld your connections exothermically. Special applications, such as underground burial, require splicing devices listed for those applications. But no matter what the application, you cannot use a u-bolt fitting designed to splice non-electrical cables.

Manufacturers of insulated twist-on wire connectors suggest you not hand-twist the wires together before applying the connector. The wires will bond properly if inserted straight, but you risk making a poor connection if you pre-twist. You must cover splices and the free ends of all conductors — used or not — with insulation at least equal to that of the conductor. Use twist-on wire connectors where necessary.

Placement of the splices is important, as well. Conductors must be continuous between all points of the system. You must install a box or conduit body at each conductor splice connection point, outlet, switch, junction, or pull point, with exceptions in these sections:

312.8 — Cabinet or Cutout Boxes
820.3 — CATV
725.3 — Class 2 and 3 Control and Signaling
314.16 — Conduit Bodies
770.3 — Fiber Optical Cable
410.31 — Luminaires
640.3 — Sound Systems
352.7 — Surface Raceways
800.52 — Telecommunications
110.14(B) and 300.5(E) — Underground
376.56 — Wireways
Sec. 314.5 doesn't allow splices in short radius conduit bodies. For other conduit bodies, observe the limitations on the number of splices in a given enclosure per 314.16(C).

Sec. 300.14 requires you to leave at least 6 in. of free conductor — measured from the point where the conductors enter the box — at each outlet, junction, and switch point for splices or terminations of luminaires or devices. Enclosures with openings less than 8 in. must have at least 3 in. of free conductor outside the opening, and no less than 6 in. of free conductor. Enclosures with an opening of 8 in. or more must have at least 6 in. of free conductor. However, conductors that pass through an enclosure and are not used for splices or termination do not require 6 in. of free conductor.
 

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G-Force Junkie said:
Somebody here probaly knows...Whats the correct way to splice romex together. I'm doing a little remodeling job and managed to hit the only romex cable within 20 feet with the sawzall :) It impossable to replace the whole run as most of it is in the wall. Common sense says to wire nut it, but does it have to be in a J box to meet code? Even if its sealed in a wall?
two small junctions boxes. You should never have wire nut connections outside of a jbox. Put an outlet in while you're at it. There are other options but they are more trouble.
 

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You need to be able to able to access the junction boxes. You can't just hide them in the wall. Code says you have to have access to all splices. Then put recptacles in them (like was suggested) to make them look like you planned them for something.
 

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I say just repull the wire from the next splice point (or last splice point) and find a convenient spot for an outlet (at least 18" off the floor) or something nearby and do it up.

If you do insist on just "splicing it" go to HD and get a Carlon "old work" box, single gang, and a blank single gang wallplate matching your color wall, or not. Pull the romex parts into the box and splice em up. Red wirenuts should be good assuming its 12/14, or the Ideal Twister's® in tan. Remember to twist wires with some pliers or something and get a good twist on them, THEN put the wirenut on. Unless you go with twisters, they do it pretty ok.

That help?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the help guys. After demo'ing the rest of the structure, it looks like this run wont be to hard to replace. I need to add a J box and outlet anyway.
 
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