Honda CBR 954 Electrical Glitch
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No fault codes. I will check historical ones though.
And just to be clear it is only at idle, like OP and the video describe. I was reading about how the exhaust valve work(ed) and how it is sluggish down low and how it kind of builds up and surges coming from a stop and different symptoms and I thought about how... all of the maps enrichen fuel across the board, when in reality its probably running rich and not lean at idle. It had the arrow full system generic map on it otherwise I think. I just took the buttons and leaned it out -2 or -3 on the pc3 and after taking it around the block I parked it and within 10 seconds it did it. So whether the fuel is enrichened by pc3 it does it all the time, if its leaned out it does it all the time, and if I don't use the pc3 it happens very rarely, and only 30+ min into riding. Couldn't this be some sort of power draw goblin?
PS making the low end leaner did however greatly reduce the lag down low and made it run much better.
And just to be clear it is only at idle, like OP and the video describe. I was reading about how the exhaust valve work(ed) and how it is sluggish down low and how it kind of builds up and surges coming from a stop and different symptoms and I thought about how... all of the maps enrichen fuel across the board, when in reality its probably running rich and not lean at idle. It had the arrow full system generic map on it otherwise I think. I just took the buttons and leaned it out -2 or -3 on the pc3 and after taking it around the block I parked it and within 10 seconds it did it. So whether the fuel is enrichened by pc3 it does it all the time, if its leaned out it does it all the time, and if I don't use the pc3 it happens very rarely, and only 30+ min into riding. Couldn't this be some sort of power draw goblin?
PS making the low end leaner did however greatly reduce the lag down low and made it run much better.
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108 Posts
I don't think so. I can check.
Oddly enough riding to work today with pc3 on i didn't notice the hesitation. Idk man something is just weird. Also after heating up a while riding above 190-200f the leaning the idle didn't really solve like I thought... if I didn't give enough throttle and use clutch right it would get stuck in a mini bog as usual... but now its been smooth, not jolty. Im afraid to try running it even leaner on low rpm but might. This stuff is driving me mad lol. The come and go nature of this stuff just makes me feel it's electrical somehow. bad ground or connection or I have no idea.
What are you thinking with the o2 sensor?
Oddly enough riding to work today with pc3 on i didn't notice the hesitation. Idk man something is just weird. Also after heating up a while riding above 190-200f the leaning the idle didn't really solve like I thought... if I didn't give enough throttle and use clutch right it would get stuck in a mini bog as usual... but now its been smooth, not jolty. Im afraid to try running it even leaner on low rpm but might. This stuff is driving me mad lol. The come and go nature of this stuff just makes me feel it's electrical somehow. bad ground or connection or I have no idea.
What are you thinking with the o2 sensor?
Just incase it was interfering with closed /open loop and the PC3, but only if it was a Cali bike I guess. A little bit of reading here might help to see the road I'm going down, even if it's not that it's a good read
motofomo.com
Open Loop vs Closed Loop: Understanding Fuel Injection
Understanding how open loop vs closed loop modes work in fuel injection — problems they can cause, how to identify them, and how to tune them out.
motofomo.com
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108 Posts
Yeah, no o2 sensors. That's an awesome read, though.
Ground block under the seat and the block for the headlights area both look good... took a wire brush with some brake cleaner anyways... connectors coming from the R/R look good... a little chaulky... cleaned those up a bit... two of the female connectors for the R/R looked a little darker than the others but it was not serious burning. They were grounds, though. Male side looked like the others. Ground to the subframe looked totally fine. Didn't check the one going to the engine block, I am covered in sweat and taking a break. No changes in the lights, though. I bet it is getting dim every time the fan kicks in, too.
Edit: OOps, I thought I was responding to my thread about the lights lol. Anyway the above stuff is relevant anyway. But I have something else to post in a moment...
Ground block under the seat and the block for the headlights area both look good... took a wire brush with some brake cleaner anyways... connectors coming from the R/R look good... a little chaulky... cleaned those up a bit... two of the female connectors for the R/R looked a little darker than the others but it was not serious burning. They were grounds, though. Male side looked like the others. Ground to the subframe looked totally fine. Didn't check the one going to the engine block, I am covered in sweat and taking a break. No changes in the lights, though. I bet it is getting dim every time the fan kicks in, too.
Edit: OOps, I thought I was responding to my thread about the lights lol. Anyway the above stuff is relevant anyway. But I have something else to post in a moment...
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108 Posts
So there are no FI lights when the bike starts up or ever but I went to read the old history of codes. It kept going and going and so I decided to just clear them and see what pops up after I go to work and back tomorrow. What I can say for certain is codes 7, 8, 9 (ETC TP IAT sensors) but also I am pretty sure there was codes like 13, 14, 15 etc on the injectors (dont remember which ones but it may have been all of them or a couple), and I know there was also either 18 or 19 or both (cam pulse, ignition pulse).
I keep meaning to bring this up, but the previous owner did some funny business to the wires going to the ECU (pictured above). As far as I know these are all the cables going to the injectors. I was looking at the color codes and all the pink/green pink/blue pink/whatever were all injectors. Idk if they used something other than a power commander in the past or what they did. One of the cables goes to speedo also. I have no idea. But the little clamps lets you plug something in and take it out.
I am wondering if the hiccup and the fault codes related to the injectors are happening when for whatever reason one of those cables going to the injectors gets a bad connection? I am guessing they tried starting the bike with all the sensors disconnected at one point or who knows what for all the other fault codes, which is why I am being dismissive of them. But I could be wrong. I have started the bike a couple times for a few moments, and so far no new fault codes.
I am considering just taking them out now and re-soldering the cables but I am leaning more towards the idea of letting it play out tomorrow and seeing what happens first. Theres not a lot of cable to work with to fix is what is annoying about it.
The bike runs fine in every way except for the dim right tail light (intermittent), and the hiccup at idle (also intermittent) with a mild taste of bog in low rpm but I can chaulk this up to the simple fact that it no longer has the exhaust valve and needs a tune. The bike screams once you get going. I checked a couple plugs the other day and they looked good, but I should probably check all of them.
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