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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

after doing valve shim clearance and replacement, and my bike falling off its paddock stand , it no longer wants to fire up

prior to this was working fine

my first thought was tip/bank sensor, it seemed to only work when removed from the bike while still connected it would seem it allowed the fuel pump to prime, but on multiple times i put this back in its position the fuel pump then stops priming
now even this has stopped working now , while it was working engine would not fire up, so i suspect injectors were still disabled and plugs not sparking

fuel rail is pressurised, injectors are not firing , all spark plugs are dry
removed a spark plug tested that has no spark either ffs .
checked both relays by swapping with headlight relay they both work.


battery is fully charged, engine cranks over fine , no F1 CODES ,

do i have a faulty tip/bank sensor or ECU or something else

thanks
mark
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Update.

TIP sensor appears to be working, i hear the relay click when tilted to 60 degree angle , turn of/on ignition and repeat other side

fuel pump now primes, after finding a connector 3 pin that connects to the from loom had light corrosion on the pins, cleaned with wd40 and a tiny brush seems to have done the trick.

just the other issue that needs fixing.

any one with knowledge of the problem have any ideas?

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi have you looked at Engine stop Relay, PGM-Fi 20amp fuse and Ignition Gen Connector
yes i think so, that relay is next to ecu? if so then yes? swapped with headlight relay and checked to see if it worked via putting on high beam.

will check ignition gen connector now and 20amp fuse is located with the other 10amp fuses? think i did go through them. will double check .

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
they are all good.

it seems that it may have been that 3 pin connector which i think relates to the ignition , if you push the connector in together tight the engine fired up instantly , their is some movement when the connections should surely fit snuggly like most of the other important connectors on the bike?

will see if i can remove the fork connectors and see if i can crimp the pins up for a better contact , if not maybe replacing both connectors
 

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Your getting there though, as you can guess its a wiring problem , have a look at the 22 pin Grey connector and the associated multi earth at he nose end both of them can be a pain, check theres no melting especially of the earthing block
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Your getting there though, as you can guess its a wiring problem , have a look at the 22 pin Grey connector and the associated multi earth at he nose end both of them can be a pain, check theres no melting especially of the earthing block
Cheers for the help, much appreciated .
i will inspect those
i did remove and clean earthing strap to rear of engine on top on mounting/fixture

found a new issue lol
head cover gasket leaks while engine runs dripping onto headers.. ffs is only a minor issue but a pain in the arse in such a tight location .
worst case might need a new gasket, will try adding gasket sealer to both sides of the gasket first.
 

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You can change the cover gasket in situ, its a little fiddly and certain movements will bring it out , putting it back is just as fiddly , in fact I'm sure there are video's on how to do it
 

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check for 12v on the follow the black with white stripe at the injectors and coils - it not follow that back to through the loom until you find where you do have 12v on then, iirc it does the fuel pump relay. might be this horrid mess up in the lh side of the loom. the contacts corrode and then randomly you get no power to the coils and injectors, then another day it will be fine!! Chased this for months and months until i found out about this!!

IMG_3595.JPG IMG_3597.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #11
check for 12v on the follow the black with white stripe at the injectors and coils - it not follow that back to through the loom until you find where you do have 12v on then, iirc it does the fuel pump relay. might be this horrid mess up in the lh side of the loom. the contacts corrode and then randomly you get no power to the coils and injectors, then another day it will be fine!! Chased this for months and months until i found out about this!!

View attachment 109185 View attachment 109186
Its almost identical to my issues , most of the connectors that dont have waterproof connectors have corrosion , you'd think Honda would use water proof connectors on all important electricals at the very least .
every time my fuel pump is dead so are the injectors and coils
will have a look at this that you mention.
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #12
check for 12v on the follow the black with white stripe at the injectors and coils - it not follow that back to through the loom until you find where you do have 12v on then, iirc it does the fuel pump relay. might be this horrid mess up in the lh side of the loom. the contacts corrode and then randomly you get no power to the coils and injectors, then another day it will be fine!! Chased this for months and months until i found out about this!!

View attachment 109185 View attachment 109186
i fount it very quickly , just removed enough insulation tape to access it, all my connectors pins were green LOL
need to order some contact cleaner then report back.

just shocking how a top brand such as Honda use cheap exposed connectors .
hope their newer bikes are better as want to up grade to 2007 1000rr soon . .
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi guys,

still waiting on electrical contact cleaner

but this issue seems to be effecting the indicators as well, its either the rear indicators work or its the front ones by disconnecting back ones
when all are connect the back work fine , however the front dont except for the tiniest glow from the bulbs as they try to turn on so appears a voltage drop on both from and rear max voltage shown is the same on from and rear light + & - terminals of 8.6v maximum

when fuel pump/injectors/plugs all worked so did the indicators .

havent fount these two earth points mentioned on the front.
 

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Think its a power/Earth fault here is the Forward earthing point all Green wires to this connector , the other is in the loom as machinehead shows in the pictures above
109189
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Think its a power/Earth fault here is the Forward earthing point all Green wires to this connector , the other is in the loom as machinehead shows in the pictures above View attachment 109189
Thanks, i did check this last night , was nice and clean .

i think ive solved the issue finally, it might of been my my main key being on the wrong side of the ignition barrel pointing away from the Hiss , (both keys are identical) though the chip inside may not be the same if it even has one at all .
my main key snapped in the fuel cap prior to doing valve clearance and replacing all the EX shims , since its been put back together the issues have started and it now seems totally dependent on which since of the ignition the old key on the key ring was facing
placing the old key inline with the other key still allows the bike to start , tried this 10 times and every time the bike came to life.

contact cleaner came this morning , so cleaned out every connector on the bike i could find

so all this time it may of been down one of my keys not linked to Hiss.. 🤣🤣🤣
 

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If you have 2 keys anywhere near the HISS system it will confuse it , I have 3 keys but because they are all cloned from the first key , there's no problem if your other keys have been programmed to the ECU then they have a separate code, so you have to keep the others away from the HISS, PITA that HISS but I suppose it works to some degree , but wont stop someone carrying away your bike;)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If you have 2 keys anywhere near the HISS system it will confuse it , I have 3 keys but because they are all cloned from the first key , there's no problem if your other keys have been programmed to the ECU then they have a separate code, so you have to keep the others away from the HISS, PITA that HISS but I suppose it works to some degree , but wont stop someone carrying away your bike;)
ive just removed the other key , and still no joy, think will have to swap transponder chips
wonder how much a new key will be and cloned as you say to my key as a back up.

at least its working, thats the important bit

this is my bike
had the wheel powder coated in candy red looks stunning .
 

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Got my keys and chips from AliExpress (2keys and 4 transponder chips) got them cut and cloned by a mototcycle and auto key cutter £20 so the keys and chips from AliExpress only cost £7, love that candy colour on the wheels , sparkles!
edit ,would do some testing on the HISS halo connector to make sure of a good return signal
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Got my keys and chips from AliExpress (2keys and 4 transponder chips) got them cut and cloned by a mototcycle and auto key cutter £20 so the keys and chips from AliExpress only cost £7, love that candy colour on the wheels , sparkles!
edit ,would do some testing on the HISS halo connector to make sure of a good return signal
cheers , camera doesnt some them as justice as they really look much sweeter , but yes they really sparkle and look mint in the sun .
thats not bad then, will have alook on aliexpress thanks for that .
will have a look see who can do this cutting and coding work .

my wheels needed refurbing , was going to go gold, but fancied being different, not seen a 929 with candy red on before and it goes nicely with the red already on the bike
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Got my keys and chips from AliExpress (2keys and 4 transponder chips) got them cut and cloned by a mototcycle and auto key cutter £20 so the keys and chips from AliExpress only cost £7, love that candy colour on the wheels , sparkles!
edit ,would do some testing on the HISS halo connector to make sure of a good return signal
how do i test the halo? what would be a good return signal?

thanks
 
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