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Discussion Starter #1
Im back and frustrated with my 05 cbr 1000 again...I ride with a voltage gauge on my bike to monitor the volts as I ride, and it usually reads up to 13.9 when the battery is good. Everything seems fine, but then when I went to daytona for bike week, while waiting on Main street the bike was getting around 220 degrees and the voltage was slowly dropping. It got as low at 8.8 volts I believe.

When I reved it it brought them up to around 10.5, and when I parked and came back with the engine off it was at 11.7, but didn't start, I had to push start it. And once I got home it charged up to around 12.5 volts and now it will restart. My question is why is it doing this, the R/R is brand new and the battery is brand new and was refully charged by Batteries Plus. Is it my stator? Are my RPMS too low at idle?? (1.4k) Do I need a "high output stator"? thanks
 

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I have the exact same problem on my 929, turned out to be the stator is failing. At idle I get just under 12v and 12.8v @ 5k RPM. You should check your charging system with a multimeter to be sure, do you have a service manual for your bike?
 

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Your idle speed is correct. I suspect the stator, since you know the reg/rec is new, and the battery is not charging.

To test your stator:
Start your bike and get it up to operating temp. Then shut the bike off.
Unhook your stator plug from the reg/rec. It's the one with three yellow wires.
Picture each of the yellow wires as A, B, and C.
Put your multimeter in VAC mode, and put the probes into the stator side of the connector wires A and B.
Start the bike.
Your multimeter should read around 25 VAC at idle, and upwards of 60 VAC at 4500rpm.
Now test wires A and C, and then test B and C.
Your looking for consistency among all three pairs of yellow wires. If one pair reads different than the other two, your stator is bad.
Also, inspect the condition of the wires and connector. Any signs of burn or severe heat? That's a problem too.

Here's my test results from a while back.
http://www.fireblades.org/forums/honda-rc51/106669-stator-regulator-tests.html

Try that, and let us know what numbers you get.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Okay thanks for the replies, I suspected stator as well, i'll do the test sometime next weekend. Thanks again guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay before I go back into this let me say I forgot to check the stator using a multimeter. I've been busy lately and I forgot. However I do know it charges the battery fine when driving at high speed so it does work. It just lets my bike die when idling.

I removed the stator and took a picture, and the wires to it have been melted into the coils, someone zip tied the wires to the coils. Is this affecting my charge? I don't see any burnt coils like what I did on my old bike.
 

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Yep its bad, your stator is weak due to the some of the coils that are shorted. What's happening to you is, when you're on the highway above 5k your stator is charging just enough to keep the FI, Lights, instruments etc. afloat, then when your buzzing around town at lower RPM the stator can't keep up with a sufficient charge and run the FI, Lights, instruments etc. Boom battery drains and the bike dies. Those melted wires are probably where your short resides causing the problem, I would replace the stator.
 

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To really verify it install it back into the cover and put the cover back on the engine. You don't need to run the bike, but it sounds like the warmer yours gets the the more things "loosen up" and fail. Anyway, With the multimeter test for continuity on each of the 3 yellow wires to ground. Each leg should test infinity (no continuity). If you get a reading of resistance on any of the 3 yellows to ground it's shorted to ground and you have a bad stator. Which is what I suspect, that at idle if a leg is shorted out its not producing enough juice to keep all the electrics running and definitely not enough to put any kind of charge back in the battery. Also, each leg to themselves should show continuity, I don't know the 1K spec but for the 900 it's like .1-.3 ohms on each yellow.
 

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Your stator looks a little better than mine, I just swapped mine out with a Ricks Stator today it was smoked something fierce. I measured 14.3V charging voltage on the new unit :). Any progress on the charging system issue?
 

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I had a burnt stator connector which my friend cut off and as a temporary measure used bullet connectors. My concern is why the connector was burnt in the first place.
I had a slow speed crash some time ago which didn't seem to affect the electrics/charging system however sometimes starting the bike on the ignition switch would not bring the headlight on unless I pressed the ignition switch again.
The wires within the stator connector were also burnt.

How easy is it to change a stator and do I need to drain the oil in the bike first? I have heard that I shouldn't use silicone sealant around the holes of the cover. I am not sure how to get the cover off without damaging the cover.

Any help would be much appreciated.
 

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You might have had a corroded connection this increases resistance at the connection and since increased electrical resistance results in an increase in heat, you get a burned up plug.

For me it was an easy repair, honestly I spent more time scraping off the old gasket material from the mating surfaces than installing the stator. you shouldn't need to drain the oil from the pan, I had my bike upright on a stand and roughly 2-3 oz. spilled out. As far as getting the cover off just tap around it with plastic screw driver head to break it loose, the magnetic rotor on the inside will want to pull the cover back, so you will have to wrestle with it a bit. I didn't use any sealant, if you don't have any deep scratches or pits on the mating surface you should be good.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The new stator (Don't hate me for being cheap, but I got one for like $32 bucks on eBay) works great! Charges great while riding and at idle it reads around 13.5ish. Bike even feels better now.

As for changing the stator just lean the bike to the right like on a wall or something so the oil doesn't drain when you take the cover off. Its held in by 4 allen bolts and a couple that hold the wire down. Real easy to replace.
 

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Also clean both grounding locations from wiring harness and coat with dielectric grease, also swap out the stone age shunt type rectifier/regulator for a mosfet type. I run one from an 05 zx10r on my 00 929RR with stable voltage readings over the stock honda regulator and they run much cooler under the tail section.

The new stator (Don't hate me for being cheap, but I got one for like $32 bucks on eBay) works great! Charges great while riding and at idle it reads around 13.5ish. Bike even feels better now.

As for changing the stator just lean the bike to the right like on a wall or something so the oil doesn't drain when you take the cover off. Its held in by 4 allen bolts and a couple that hold the wire down. Real easy to replace.
 
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