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I got some Goodridge SS lines for my 929. I've never done anything with brakes before but I figured out how they connect. I couldn't figure out how to use the bleeders and ended up taking the banjo bolts on and off a few times. I ended up snapping TWO of them due to lack of torque wrench and frustration, and put the original bolts on with the SS kit. I eventually figured out (TURN screw) how to operate the bleeders, and I have a vacuum syringe, but I just keep sucking air. I get about 10% fluid, 90% air every time I pull the syringe. Even after refilling the reserve constantly until I'd gone through a full 12oz bottle of fluid. I get a tiny bit of braking force but thats about it. I spent a good half hour at this and assume it shouldn't take anywhere near that long. Does it really take forever or do I have a leak? Do you think stock banjo bolts will work, and I need to get new crush washers? Or a whole new set of bolts/washers.

One thing I did learn is that DOT4 isn't terribly harmful. I got it all over tire, paint, caliper, rotor, hands, face, etc with no ill effects (in 24 hours).

Any advice that doesn't involve hiring a mechanic? :p
 

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Uhhhh, Please tell me that you thoroughly washed the bike after getting the brake fluid on it...? You may want to if you haven't already.

Make sure everything is nice and snug and then keep at the bleeding. It will take several times of trying, especially if you are new to it so don't give up.
 

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Technically, you should replace the crush washers anytime you remove the bolts, and especially when changing bolts.
Your stock banjos will work fine if the fitting is the same thickness as the stock line. If it isn't, get another set of bolts, along with a set of crush washers.

Fill your resevoir with fluid, and disconnect one line. Wait for the fluid to start dripping. Now, connect the line to the caliper. Do the same for the other side.
Zip tie your brake lever back to your grip, and clean up the mess. Wait an hour or two, tap your lines with a wrench starting at the caliper and working up on both sides. Now, cut the zip ties, and bleed by squeezing the lever and releasing the bleeder for a split second while holding the lever back.
Repeat squeeze/bleed until you have a good, solid brake.
 

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Correct me if i am wrong but the stock banjo only has one line at the master cylinder and the ss lines both connect at the master cylinder. Therefore you should be using a double banjo bolt (has two holes instead of one). The 929 is a monster to bleed but the above advise worked for me. A banjo bleeder seems to help the process also.. Hope this helps and like previously mentioned replace the crush washers. They tend to leak under hard riding and mist on your windscreen. Don't ask how I know but I have a #### load of new crush washers in the garage....
 

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My *guess* here is that you did not use any type of teflon tape at the bleeder valve when you put the new ones in. If not then when you crack the bleeder valve it will pull in air from around the threads. I had to put some teflon tape around the threads of my bleeder valves before I screwed them into the calipers and the banjo bleeder bolt to insure an airtight seal when bleeding the system.

Although, having said that, you still shouldn't get that much air.... methinks you should have one of your friends who has been through the process come over and give you a hand. It isn't that hard to do, but there can be some gotchas here and there if you haven't worked around brakes.
 

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That's a load of crap IFG, why would it pull air from between the threads, but not through the bleeder itself.  I've bled brakes hundreds of times without teflon tape.  And i've come out just fine.  Hell i'm even ASE certified in brakes, and i've never even heard of needing to seal the bleeder's threads.  

 Good advice, man.  
 

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Maybe it depends on the bolts. I have speedbleeders, and, like lfg, I had to add a bit of teflon tape, too, as they were seeping a bit. Solved the problem.
 

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I hope you are being sarcastic. Otherwise I am going to have to step over to Eastern Illinois and kick your ass (you have a smiley face, but I am questioning the tone).

When I installed my Goodridge line kit on both the 929 and the RC51 if I did not put teflon tape around the threads before inserting them into the calipers or banjo bolts then it would pull outside air in around the threads, into the brake system, and then pull it back out through the bleeder valve. It took me a while to figure this out (I figured I still had air in the lines). If I had upgraded to the better bleeder valves (with the sealant already applied to the threads) then I wouldn't have had to use the tape.

FYI, check out Speed Bleeders. The main image on the front page shows the bleeders with a red sealant. The bleeders I got with the Goodridge kit for the banjo bolts did not have any sealant on them, which is how I was getting air into the system while bleeding it. Obviously, once the bleeder valve was tightened down it was sealed, but that didn't help me when I was trying to bleed the system and get the air out of it....
 

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Sorry Fusion - you're wrong. I'm replying in your own tone by the way.
The Honda bleed nipples come coated with a thread sealer (presumably to facilitate vacuum bleeding at the factory) but this rarely survives more than one or two uses.
If you vacuum bled you may have got lucky - I've done quite a few this way and more than 50% will pull air if you don't seal them with tape.
It's not necessary if you bleed normally by pumping the lever, but this method can be very troublesome (some clearly do have a routine which works) due to the problems of getting air out of the m/c.
It pulls air when vacuum bleeding at the nipple because it's easier to pull air down the thread and back out thro' the centre of the nipple than it is to pull fluid....
 

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Hey!! I don't need for you guys to make me look like a jerk!! As you can see, i'm quite capable of doing that myself. Maybe i'm not understanding this banjo setup, but any bleeder
i've messed with, seals when you tighten it.
 

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I never used any tape on my speedbleeders and used to bleed them before every weekend without any problems. My speedbleeders came with some sort of sealant on the threads and it stayed there throughout the 2 and a half years I ran the 929.
 

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I've used Speed Bleeders on both my VFR and 929.  Quoting the instructions that came with them...'When you first install Speed Bleeder you will note a slight resistance when you reach the thread sealant.  This is normal.  The thread sealant is conforming to the shape of the threads to provide a seal between the internal threads of the caliper or wheel cylinder and the external threads of the Speed Bleeder.'  Sooo...FWIW, at least Speed Bleeder thinks sealing the threads is necessary.

Carry on...

edit: Speed Bleeders also sells replacement thread sealant.
 

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fusion929rr : Hey!! I don't need for you guys to make me look like a jerk!!  As you can see, i'm quite capable of doing that myself.  Maybe i'm not understanding this banjo setup, but any bleeder
i've messed with, seals when you tighten it.
Ah, and there is the difference. Yes, when you tighten them down they seal just fine. But when you loosen them to bleed any air out of the system at that spot then they tend to pull air into the system from around the threads.

onda may have something there with it really only affecting vacuum bleeding though. I was using a Mity-Vac to bleed mine at the time. Since I have the Mity-Vac I tend to do all brake bleeding using it rather than just pumping the lever.
 

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Where can I get the right size crush washers besides Honda? I just rebuilt the calipers and Honda charged me two dollars for each crush washer. I paid it, but I don't want to do that again next time. I didn't like the sore feeling in my posterior.

You can only tighten those once, right? Has anyone reused one?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thank you VERY much BDA116. It was freakin easy doing it that way. I wasn't pumping the brakes, and was using this vacuum syring tosuck air out. I think it was going right back in.
I originally got SS because my brakes felt weak, now I'm wondering if there was just air in the lines. They feel incredibly powerful now. Before the SS/bleed my vfr750's brakes were better. It does have SS lines though...

I'll let you know if I have any leaks. Also, I took some pics of the lines and the mess I made. I'll post em once I go for a ride.
 

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firepants said:
I need to get new crush washers? Or a whole new set of bolts/washers.
I know with Galfer SS lines i went to thier web site emailed them stated i needed to get more crush washers and they sent 9 washers for free no shipping!!! :eyebrows:
:thumb:
 
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