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Discussion Starter #1
You take out the shim and bucket first, correct?

Honda doesn't sell the tappet hole protector mentioned in the manual. Do I need it? Should I fashion one from a 35mm film canister as they show in the manual?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Take out the shim and bucket first? You mean after the retainers are out and the springs released?
Now I'm confused. What retainers? I thought once the cams were out that the buckets and shims could be lifted out with my fingers. Am I wrong?
 

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yes, is the motor out of the bike? your going to have a hard time using a conventional vale spring compressor to remove the vale, is this your first time doing this?:idunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yes, is the motor out of the bike? your going to have a hard time using a conventional vale spring compressor to remove the vale, is this your first time doing this?:idunno:
The motor is not out of the bike yet. I am going to see what it looks like once I take off the air box and carb. If I can get good access, then I will leave the motor in the cradle, otherwise I will remove it.

This is my first time doing this. I am thinking about getting a good valve spring compressor.
 

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The motor is not out of the bike yet. I am going to see what it looks like once I take off the air box and carb. If I can get good access, then I will leave the motor in the cradle, otherwise I will remove it.

This is my first time doing this. I am thinking about getting a good valve spring compressor.

You need to remove the head from the engine to use a conventional valve spring compressor.
What exactly are you trying to achieve here?

You lift the bucket and shim out with a magnet.
Then you use the compressor to press the retainer down so you can remove the keepers or collets, then you lift off the retainer, springs and spring seat. Then you can pull the valve out of the combustion chamber.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
You need to remove the head from the engine to use a conventional valve spring compressor.
Yes, I know I have to remove the head from the engine. Any tips on making sure I get the cam chain back on correctly? It looks to me like it can't be off by a single tooth on any sprocket. I guess I will have to get it to TDC and make sure the IN and EX lines match up.


What exactly are you trying to achieve here?
A spark plug electrode came off. I assume it fell into the cylinder. I am going to remove the head to look for the errant piece and see if it caused any damage. While I have the head off I might as well change the valve seals.


You lift the bucket and shim out with a magnet.
Then you use the compressor to press the retainer down so you can remove the keepers or collets, then you lift off the retainer, springs and spring seat. Then you can pull the valve out of the combustion chamber.
Good info. That is what I have been seeing on YouTube. The Honda manual talks about a tappet hole protector. They don't sell one anymore. Should I improvise one with a 35mm film canister as they talk about in the manual? Should I use a rag to protect the valve face?

Thanks for your help in this area.
 

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Yes, I know I have to remove the head from the engine. Any tips on making sure I get the cam chain back on correctly? It looks to me like it can't be off by a single tooth on any sprocket. I guess I will have to get it to TDC and make sure the IN and EX lines match up.




A spark plug electrode came off. I assume it fell into the cylinder. I am going to remove the head to look for the errant piece and see if it caused any damage. While I have the head off I might as well change the valve seals.




Good info. That is what I have been seeing on YouTube. The Honda manual talks about a tappet hole protector. They don't sell one anymore. Should I improvise one with a 35mm film canister as they talk about in the manual? Should I use a rag to protect the valve face?

Thanks for your help in this area.
Just follow the manual and you should be fine with the cam timing. Yes, you do not want to be a tooth out. Always turn the engine over by hand _slowly_ after timing it to be sure the valves aren't hitting the pistons. If you feel even light pressure, STOP.

A plug electrode is _tiny_, I really wouldn't worry about it. Odds are very good that it was simply sucked out with the exhaust gas as soon as it came adrift. If it were going to bend any valves you would know about it already.

You can do the seals without pulling the head although it can be fiddly. You need to feed a length of nylon rope into the cylinder via the spark plug hole, then wind the engine over to force it up against the closed valves. Then you can push or lever the retainers down to remove the springs and seals. Use plenty of grease.

I've never needed to use a tappet bore protector but it's probably not bad insurance. Try cutting up a Coke can and curl a strip of that around the hole to protect it.

The valve is hardened steel and will be just fine. Some compressors actually have a ball on them that centres it in the hollow valve face.
 
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