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Discussion Starter #21
Here it is right after about 14 hours of vacuum bagging. Pretty much fully cured.



As you can tell the mechanical compressing of the vacuum was enough to push the vacuum tube under suction into the clay and thus difforming the part. This is valuable info for me not to make a show or structural part on a clay mold.


So now you can measure and cut down your part with a cut off wheel since it's fully cured.



This was just the first rough cut... you can always cut off more. As you can see the flaw that was created from when I was trying to put my wetted out cloth in the mold into the vacuum bag... Again, having some wax paper or plastic over the edges that are tacky and can get pulled away from the mold easily is a good idea. You can also see I completely gave up trying to save my paint job.


Measure, Measure, Measure... here's a second cut down. Just showing you all this in case you can learn at all from my process.

 

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Discussion Starter #23
Good:

Pan inside cowl, good to go to bond



Since The Max clear 1618 is meant for vacuum bagging it was too thin of viscosity to bond the two parts (think the viscosity of honey or warm ketchup)... it's just going to run down into the crack. This two part epoxy from the hardware store is more like the viscosity of craft clue like "elmer's glue" that has chemicals in it that quickly evaporate within minutes to get progressively thicker until hard.

While bonding I secured it down

After it was bonded it didn't look that much different


After the two were joined together I added more epoxy to the seam


 

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Discussion Starter #24
Great fit underneath when I took the back of my bike off.

I taped off and spray painted the graphics I wanted on the part... hindsight this was a HUGE waste of time, effort and resources... it would be far more appropriate to have just got vinyl decals made and clear coat over them.... on the top left you can see how "orange peel" the surface of the part was when I applied a coat of Max Clear 1618 epoxy on the top of the part. Max Clear HP expoxy resin may have provided the "clear coat" effect I was looking for... instead I just used rattle can clear coat that I had been happy with the results to get the final product seen here.

Sanded down the paint job I ruined on my tail


Now to make a Carbon Fiber tail out of a two piece mold... I tried outlining the areas I was to cut out with Elmer's glue to prevent fraying of the fiber matrix after cutting... It seemed to work. I of course let this glue dry overnight so the bead of glue would hold the cut out and the remnant matrix together. You can also see I was repeating the process of using a piece of fleece as a template... It's also nice to keep if you ever want to make another part.

The little 3cfm vacuum pump had enough power to do two parts at once

Using carnuaba wax mold release allowed the parts to pop out clean and with a much more smooth finished look.. the chalky appearance is due to the carnuaba wax that isn't wiped off yet.

Before I bonded the two pieces together.


After they're bonded together and before any paint.

Put together on my CBR 929.... now to do the subframe.

"So what's the point?" people ask. Dropping half the weight of your fairings isn't a bad deal is it? (This is a fiberglass cowl I made but never finished... it's a wall hanger just because I ended up getting it signed by Jason Britton and Tony Carbajal

Best of luck on your project!
-Matt Behning
 

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Wow Matt, this article is excellent!
It looks like a very time consuming process but once you have it down the options are endless!!

May have to give this a try someday.
Thanks for the very detailed and comprehensive writeup! :thumb:
 

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Since I registered on this board and went through most of you DIY projects I must say ...I wish you were my next door neighbour.

Awesome write up and meticulous work and details. :clap:
 
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