To remove the 30mm clutch center nut you have to hold the clutch basket steady... you can make a template like this and create one out of flat steel yourself without too much trouble.
Use all five clutch bolts to hold the tool onto the clutch center.
If your clutch center hub was as worn as this one all five tabs might break off at once... the notches in the studs happens from the rider chopping on throttle abrubtly and frequently.
with the studs broke off we tried to get the nut off by notching it with a grinder
And hitting the notched out area
valid point the other clutch center holders are your best bet. It's what I had, it's worked up to this point
The clutch bolts need medium strength thread lock... don't forget the washers that go along to.
It goes without saying to torque any part with multiple bolts in a alternating pattern one across from the other one by one.
These clutch bolts only need 12Nm of torque
Don't forget to re-bolt the cam chain tensioner guide bolt.
Then for the clutch side of the engine:
First re-install the plate, the three bolts get 12Nm of torque
Then you can slide the drive collar, chain, and oil pump sprocket on
You can torque down the oil pump sprocket to 15Nm by putting a screw driver through one of the holes like this
Yep, thread lock everything I repeated it 3 times I believe It's common sense... there's no harm to doing the clutch bolts too.
As far as the posts not taking any lateral tension... That's all the posts do is handle lateral tension Same for the clutch housing.
Check this out: this guy had a broken clutch basket post... he thought he could get by with 4 out of 5 clutch posts.... needless to say it worked for a little while before the lateral tension of the power from the engine through the clutch posts to the trans caused the rest of them to snap:
It's also why the RC51 has six hub posts and the CBRs only have five... it makes way more torque... same for the 1300 GSXr compared to the smaller gsxrs or the Kawasaki 1400 compared to the smaller ninja's, or the other end of the spectrum, most scooters and 250cc bikes only have 4 posts... on and on, more power: you need more posts.
I'm sure the tool that holds the clutch basket by the spars instead of the posts is a better idea. However, the posts only snapped when we had to litterally strap the engine to the table, to men hold the engine and table steady while a third guy with a breaker bar with a four foot pole on the thing for leverage was putting most of his weight on the bar... I don't know how much torque that was... but it was probably over 500Nm...
Long story short, the hub posts snapped because we didn't use an impact wrench to undo the nut... not because the posts are weak (they aren't).
i recently tore my 02 954 all the way down and have run into an assembly question. on the gear selector shaft there is a washer and im almost certain that is goes inside the case and not outside with the foot selector but for some reason there is a small amount of doubt. so i figured I would ask you since ive been using your write up as a guide. any and all help is greatly appreciated. thanks
Yes but to me it is unclear. It shows the shaft outside of the motor with the washer in the middle of the shaft and it doesnt have the normal assembly lines. Maybe they are there and I just have a bad copy. Either way I just thought I would ask to be sure.
You should have the return spring on the shaft up against the shift claws, then the washer sits against the spring, then the circlip, then install the shaft into the engine.
Take the ignition rotor off, take tension off the cam chain, take chain off sprocket, sprocket should slide off end of shaft. It did on my 93 900RR.Can you please share the photo how to remove the lower timing chain sprocket as I do not know hot to remove thank you