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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok let me preface this with this is my first post on fireblades.org. So hopefully I can figure out how to post photos and all. Here was the problem: when in second gear and you gave it some gas it would pop back into neutral. So I read that it needed a new second gear but found very few photos and little info of what to ACTUALLY replace or look for besides someone saying "the dogs are worn and maybe a bent shift fork" Well I had no idea what that was or what to really look for so I hope this helps anyone in my position. The engine case DOES need to be split and you need to take almost everything off the bike in order to get the engine out of the frame.
Start by getting yourself the Haynes manual I recommend discountautorepairmanuals.com they were the cheapest ($30 including shipping) and I have used that website twice with NO problems. Also what I did was replace the shift fork $40, 2nd gear $80, and 6th gear $80 totalling $200. you will see why in the pics. So remember this is not a $50 fix like you may read.
(Also follow the Haynes manual, because they tell IN DETAIL how and what to remove, really I will help when things get more complicated)
*****PICS ARE OUT OF ORDER! put your mouse over the pic and it will come up with an image number and match that*****

Start off by removing the fairings, tank, air box and throttle bodies, and everything the manual tells you.

remove the radiator but leave the coolant reservoir on until the exhaust is off, it just makes it easier.

IMG 1422: before taking off the rear wheel and swing arm loosen up the rear suspension bolts (three on the triangle thing on the bottom of the shock) and almost all other bolts around that area because it is more stable now than it is going to be. To get that damn swing arm bolt loosened I kept the left side pinch bolt tight and did the weld a nut on a bolt trick and used a cheater bar on a 1/2 inch ratchet to get it off. I also thought if you didnt have a welder maybe you could get a reverse thread bolt and somehow get it... just an idea. I also managed to break the bolt while trying to loosen it up so get the super hard bolts and nuts from the hardware store so it wont break. And DONT get the bolts at Home Depot because they suck! Also, see my jack stands on blocks of wood holding up the bike... BAD IDEA it got REAL sketchy when putting the engine back in the frame so either get yourself some longer jack stands or buy an engine hoist from craigslist for $100. It will be worth EVERY cent!

Put a floor jack with a piece of wood on it then I lifted it with the flat spot on the left side of the oil pan. You will need someone to help steady it because it will want to wobble when you drop it down. Also, maybe this is common knowledge but I didnt know it, the engine is not THAT heavy. My wife and I were able to lift it and she only weighs about 350 pounds (thats a joke) she is a typical woman complains alot, needs to clean more and weighs about 350 pounds. OK just kidding! My point is that probably two average non-juicing 18 year old boys (hell maybe even girls) can lift this thing. Just run a tie down strap through where the swing arm pivot bolt goes and you'll be fine. And for the front I used the frame sliders that were already installed as handles.

IMG 1659: engine out and if you want to replace the spark plugs it will save you like 30 min if you do it while the engine is out of the frame. I just laid the engine down on a bunch of cardboard and spun it around on the floor.

IMG 1684: take off the alternator and clutch covers (if not already done so) and remove the oil pan (this is what the photo really is of) And clean the oil strainer (the circle piece with an oval cut in it) since you trashed 2nd gear you probably trashed the clutch as well and the oil strainer may have parts of it.

IMG 1688: YES, you HAVE to remove the clutch!!! Look at P.2.43 figure 22.3 in your Haynes manual. Behind the clutch is where those 3 bolts are! I had a hell of a time figuring that one out! ALSO you need to remove that bolt by the cam shaft chain (its the bolt holding on the orange piece next to the ignition piece aka the star looking thing) hopefully you know what I mean. Also YES that is my clutch on the floor and YES it is in pieces and NO I have no idea how the hell the previous owner managed to make a 9 plate clutch into a 100 piece 9 plate clutch.

IMG 1701: clutch removed and there are those 3 damn bolts that WILL NOT let you split the cases if they are still installed (I accidentally tried) so take them out. (P.2.43 figure 22.3 in your manual) ALSO notice my hand... it looks sweet doesn't it!

IMG 1705: Here is the engine split in half NOW the part I had to replace was the shaft on left side, the part the front sprocket attaches to, the transmission output shaft or P.2.61 fig 30.22. I needed to replace #22 (2nd gear pinion) and #19 (6th gear pinion). The #22 and #19 are reference numbers if you have the Haynes manual

IMG 1769: This is second gear, the one on the left is worn, the one on the right is new. The gear on the left... See the teeth of the gear, now look inside a bit further and you see the "edges" coming out from the center of it? Look close at those edges, notice how they are "worn" and not a nice square edge? The one on the right has nice square edges. That is 1/3 the problem of it popping out of gear.

IMG 1711: This is the other third of the problem this is the 6th gear dogs that fit into the second gear that somehow engage it. I dont know all the specifics on how or whatever, all I know is that it has something to do with second gear and its worn. In the photo see the "square" things coming out from the gear (6th gear to be more precis) those are called dogs. Like where my dogs at, or grrrrrrrrrrr. Well those go into second gear and they are worn right around the edges of the dogs. Look close, they SHOULD BE nice, square edges.

IMG 1714: Here is the final third of the problem, the shift fork. The one on the left is OBVIOUSLY worn out and all scratched up. The one on the right is what it SHOULD look like.

IMG 1817: Putting it all back together, notice how I have it suspended from a ladder now... something I should have done from the beginning MUCH MORE STABLE. And the dog sitting where the gas tank goes is Lady Gaga... according to my 2 year old daughter. So yeah, Lady Gaga was willing to make an appearance to see this 929 be fixed. FREAKING AWESOME!

Its such a nice feeling when you have two wheels on the damn thing. The "I hope this things doesnt fall on me" feeling really fades away after this point. Also with getting the clutch housing back in there is something the manual DOESNT tell you. When aligning the gears to slide the housing in you put your screw driver into the hole and lock it but then you turn the crank COUNTER CLOCKWISE to get the gears to line up. COUNTER CLOCKWISE you hear COUN-TER CLOCK-WISE. That was something else I had hard time figuring out.

IMG 4024a: Finished product! After doing this no more slamming it into second and wheeling off because you dont want to do this ever again!

Hopefully this helps and feel free to ask me questions, I will see what I can remember. Also I order my parts off of cheapcycleparts.com. They are the cheapest I found on the internet. Just make sure you order the right stuff because their customer service can suck. If you are getting a cork clutch get the EBC CK1206 because the other one cheap cycle parts says fits... DOESNT! I found that out the hard way. Also I got spark plugs ($30) off of ebay and I also got the clutch basket holder tool thing off of ebay too $23. I also used permatex motoseal 1 as the gasket maker, not sure if its the best but NOTHING is leaking so I reccomend it and you can find it at your auto parts store for about $8 I believe. Another trick I found out is get a fine point permanent marker and some masking tape and LABEL EVERYTHING you remove on both sides. YOU WILL NOT REMEMBER WHERE IT GOES! From hoses, oil cooler lines to electrical connections its much easier to put back together if it is labeled well. Also this may sound like common sense but just remember it when you remove nuts and bolts, put them back where you removed them so they dont get lost or put into a place they sholdnt. Honestly I have NEVER done something this involved before and it wasn't THAT hard, just time consuming. You really should be fine!
ENJOY!
HOPS
 

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Nice writeup!! Glad to see someone taking some time to contribute.

Agreed.
I see these threads and always wonder why somebody would bother reiterating what is already adequately covered by the workshop manuals - but you've made a nice job of this that I think will give others a little more confidence to do this themselves, and that's always a good thing :)
 

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Very cool! I am going to be cracking the case to look into second gear myself. It won't stay in gear under acceleration or deceleration.

I have a 954. I am taking a leap of faith and assuming they the 929 are very similar if not the same.
 

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Did you replace the torque to yield bolts in the crank case or were you able to reuse the originals? Also wondering what your shift drum looked like. I recently did this repair in a 954 and the drum was trashed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Did you replace the torque to yield bolts in the crank case or were you able to reuse the originals? Also wondering what your shift drum looked like. I recently did this repair in a 954 and the drum was trashed.
The shift drum in my 929 was in good shape. As for the torque to yield bolts (I think those are the bolts you tighten an extra 150 degrees once installed) that is only for the 954 (2001 and 2002 models). So I can't answer that one.
 

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Thanks for the compliments guys... too bad I dont have the bike anymore. Some scum JACKED it. I believe they live in the Denver Colorado area. Ways to identify it is the custom seat and different colored front fender (its a bit lighter than the other yellow plastics) Also some shotty bondo work I did on the tail plastic right behind the front drivers seat (has some bubbles and isnt very smooth) Keep an eye out for it if you don't mind.
THANKS GUYS!
 

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Thanks for the compliments guys... too bad I dont have the bike anymore. Some scum JACKED it. I believe they live in the Denver Colorado area. Ways to identify it is the custom seat and different colored front fender (its a bit lighter than the other yellow plastics) Also some shotty bondo work I did on the tail plastic right behind the front drivers seat (has some bubbles and isnt very smooth) Keep an eye out for it if you don't mind.
THANKS GUYS!
Damn :-(
 

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Doh... that sucks.

I recently replaced all the transmission guts from my original engine into my CL engine. The seller didn't tell me that 2nd was toast. Grrrr...

It's running good now tough. Took the 954 to the track last weekend. :thumb:
 

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Where can you get your hands on these parts for a decent price? and what should be used as a gasket for the crankcase cover?

Bikebandit
Ron Ayres
Cheap Cycle Parts
Ronnies

One side has a paper gasket, the other side use ThreeBond.
 

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Its really not that bad. The work itself is actually rather easy its just alot of it. Putting the nuts and bolts where ever they came from made the assembly process alot better and the feeling of having it all assembled and finished is a feeling better then no other. I was debating riding my bike this season without second gear and doing it in the winter but it only took me about 3 weeks to do the whole things including waiting for the parts.
 
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