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Hi,
I have taper steering bearings in my 929. Shop Manual gives torque for ball bearings (22 ft-lbs torque, 1.0 to 1.5 Kg preload measured at fork). How do I set steering nut torque for taper bearings?

I think i remember somebody telling me the stem should just barely fall to the stop with front wheel of the ground. Is that right?

What are problems with nut to tight or too loose? Which is worse?

thanks, alex
 

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With a torque wrench.

22 ft/lbs isn't much but it's always better to do things the way the factory wants it.

What are the problems:

Too loose: Nut falls off bike while you're riding, bike falls to pieces and you die a horrible, fiery death on the side of the road with hundreds of onlookers.

Too tight: Your steering is tight, you miss a wicked left hander causing you to die a fiery death on the side of the road with hundreds of onlookers and the news chopper filming from above so millions more get to watch on FoxNews. Millions of fireblades.orgers later download the video from YouTube and post separate threads asking "Did you see this?" or "Check this out" or "Horrible Motorcycle Crash" which causes millions more fireblades.orgers to post :redrider: The overload of :redrider: posts causes Conq to have to upgrade his servers to handle the extra load which downs the system for several days. When the system comes back up the gallery won't work for several weeks, BDA will call you an ass because he could have died a fierier death in his sleep, LTL will call you a squid who deserved what you got and Baketech will post either popcorn or the emoticon with the big ears :)allears:) provoking LTL into a tirade of how he really feels about squids. I'll post some horribly unwitty comment much like this one and CBR929RE will get flamed no matter what he posts. To top it off, we'll all go to Grattan next year and phobiaphobe will sing karaoke making us laugh and pee our pants.

Go with too loose. It's easier on the rest of us.
 

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Mods: Seamus' post needs to be moved to the permanent tech article section so future members can benefit from his 'hit the nail on the head' advice.
 

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Hi 2bitsamile,

I know for the 954 that the ball bearing version gets 30Nm torque, while the Taper version get 15Nm + 90 degrees turn...no idea why, but that's what the manual says :idunno: .

I've always struggled with this issue though and usually go with what feels about right. I'f you've got a head lifting front stand you can tighten the lock nut (the one UNDER the top triple clamp) by hand (with a C-spanner) and check the steering resistance at intervals until you think you've got it as tight as feels safe...I've always preferred a bit of resistance - not much, just enough to stop the wheel from moving of its own accord, but don't ask me what I've torqued it down to as I have never been able to work out how to get a torque wrench onto that particular lock nut with dismantling half the bike !

As for the 30mm nut ON TOP of the top triple clamp - just do it up tight :thumb: .

Cheers, Spanky.
 

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With a torque wrench.

22 ft/lbs isn't much but it's always better to do things the way the factory wants it.

What are the problems:

Too loose: Nut falls off bike while you're riding, bike falls to pieces and you die a horrible, fiery death on the side of the road with hundreds of onlookers.

Too tight: Your steering is tight, you miss a wicked left hander causing you to die a fiery death on the side of the road with hundreds of onlookers and the news chopper filming from above so millions more get to watch on FoxNews. Millions of fireblades.orgers later download the video from YouTube and post separate threads asking "Did you see this?" or "Check this out" or "Horrible Motorcycle Crash" which causes millions more fireblades.orgers to post :redrider: The overload of :redrider: posts causes Conq to have to upgrade his servers to handle the extra load which downs the system for several days. When the system comes back up the gallery won't work for several weeks, BDA will call you an ass because he could have died a fierier death in his sleep, LTL will call you a squid who deserved what you got and Baketech will post either popcorn or the emoticon with the big ears :)allears:) provoking LTL into a tirade of how he really feels about squids. I'll post some horribly unwitty comment much like this one and CBR929RE will get flamed no matter what he posts. To top it off, we'll all go to Grattan next year and phobiaphobe will sing karaoke making us laugh and pee our pants.

Go with too loose. It's easier on the rest of us.
the more you post the more I think you might be smartest person on this board. but you forgot to mention "Pete" in there somewhere calling you stupid.
 

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so tapered steering bearings get same torque as ball bearings?

929 manual spec is for ball bearings, i'm using aftermarket tapered bearings
I misunderstood your original question. I read it as how to set the torque, not what is the torque setting.

the more you post the more I think you might be smartest person on this board. but you forgot to mention "Pete" in there somewhere calling you stupid.
I knew I was missing someone in there. Sorry "Pete".
 

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I'm kind of at a loss for what Honda talks about on their steering stem torque values. For one if you crank the very first nut down to 22ft lbs your putting unnecessary pressure on the bearings. I always thought the idea was to get all the freeplay out of the bearing using the first adjusting nut, not get all the freeplay out AND squash it down to 22ft lbs. My guess is Honda wants people to get the freeplay out of the bearings just to the point of where there is "zero wobble", then turn it 1/4 turn tighter. Now slide the lockwasher onto the stem. Then put the second jam nut on the stem and torque THAT nut down to 22ft lbs while using a wrench to hold the first nut still so that it does not move in the slightest from it's adjustement. Now bend the lockwasher to hold both nuts in place. If you put 22ft lbs of torque directly onto the bearings they will be ruined in no time flat... and you will be eating that next corner you turn into.
 
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