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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone used or is using non-stock cams. eg. HRC or Erion?

Which of the two would you recomend? Also, is there anything else which would be needed to complement the cams eg. valves etc?

Is there a major difference to the bike when installed?

And the BIG question, are they worth it? :huh:

Sorry about all those questions, but I'm considering buying a set. :rolleyes:

Thanks
 

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Honda does a pretty crappy job of cleaning up their head castings on these bikes. I polished my exhaust ports, and it made a significant difference. You may want to consider that mod if you're going to spend that kind of money on the head.
 

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I have Erion cams in my 929 and it feels about 8-10 hp stronger above 9k. Below 4k it's a dog, definately not for a streetbike. I did some cam timing over the winter to close the intake cam a little sooner (3deg) to get some bottom end back. I have not ridden it yet (I live in the N.E.- SNOW!). But I am sure it will be better.
 

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CBRBob said:
I have Erion cams in my 929 and it feels about 8-10 hp stronger above 9k. Below 4k it's a dog, definately not for a streetbike. I did some cam timing over the winter to close the intake cam a little sooner (3deg) to get some bottom end back. I have not ridden it yet (I like in the N.E. SNOW!). But I am sure it will be better.
Do you have the "drop in" Erion cams? I might be mistaken but doesn't Erion make an even "hotter" set than the "drop in's"? Also, where did you get them and what did they set you back?
 

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Closing the cams a few deg. sooner HAS TO move the power down the rpm range a bit. That's just reality. The way it made power was building all the way to redline. If you can make the power start to fall off 500rpm before redline you have the best setup. What that did was move the available power lower in the rpm range where you use it instead of just at redline and above.
These are the drop in cams, I have the specs at home on the cam cards. PM me this evening and I will let you know.
 

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JayBumps said:
What are the lift and duration specs on the Erion drop in cams?
:rotfl: (not at you) Those ASSHOLES at Erion will not give you any meaningful info on their cams. Therefore, I went with Moriwakis.

I maybe only gained a couple of peak HP, but they pull much harder into the limiter. They also sound pretty wicked. IMO, it's not money well spent unless you plan on doing more than I did, Serpents, Airbox, PCIIIr, race fuel, Ti retainers, bored throttle bodies and decked head.
 

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Is anyone running the Erion "drop ins" on the street? If so what are your thoughts? Also, did you have to degree the cams to get the hp increase you got or did you simply "drop them in" with stock degree settings? I have the Serpents, HR fiberglass CA ducts, FP velocity stacks and PC111r. Thinking about the cams and then custom map but hesitant on the on the cams on the street. Any opinions?
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3cRider said:
Is anyone running the Erion "drop ins" on the street? If so what are your thoughts? Also, did you have to degree the cams to get the hp increase you got or did you simply "drop them in" with stock degree settings? I have the Serpents, HR fiberglass CA ducts, FP velocity stacks and PC111r. Thinking about the cams and then custom map but hesitant on the on the cams on the street. Any opinions?
Thanks
Just out of curiosity......what sort of difference did the velocity stacks make ?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So, after 253 views so far, are they worth it for the street? Is anything else required besides the "drop-in" cams? eg. valves etc.. :idunno:

I'm having a hard time getting a response from ER :rant:

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Athens954 said:
So, after 253 views so far, are they worth it for the street? Is anything else required besides the "drop-in" cams? eg. valves etc.. :idunno: I'm having a hard time getting a response from ER :rant:
Thanks
Street, no, they really kill anything below 5k-ish and 5-8k-ish is about the same. I did the drop in last year. When I went to degree them I checked the specs and they were spot-on what the cam card said :clap:
I talked to Marc S. at Factory and he suggested advancing the intake cam only 3-4 deg, especially with the FP velocity stacks. So thats what I did. I havent ridden the bike because its a race bike and I live in NJ (read SNOW!)
Here are the Erion cam specs off the card...
Int. Adv dur 36o-56c 272dur. [email protected] 22o-42c 244dur
Exh. 53o-33c 266dur 39o-19c 238dur

100deg lobe centers. It measured 100.5deg. I was shooting for 104 and got it.

Hope this helps you all. :thumb:
 

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CBRBob,
You seem to be quite knowledgeable of these things, and seem to have some experience. Perhaps you can help me with these questions. As stated earlier, I too have the Erion "drop in" cams. I also recently purchased a PC3r to be able to adjust ignition timing. You mentioned having adjustable cam sprockets for your cams. The question is (Quetion #1): Are these two things (cam timing and ignition timing) two different ways of adjusting the same thing, or do they each have a purpose? It seems to me that each one would have its own purpose but do I do not have a lot of experience with either one. (Question #2) Did you go about any means when adjusting your cam sprockets by using a degree wheel, etc, etc., or did you use the stock marks and go from there?

Anyone else that has any info, please chime in.

TIA
 

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3cRider,
I use my bike for street. Would not recommend the Erion cams (or race cams at all). For what they cost ($650) I don't think they made that much of a difference. They definately do pull harder on top end into redline. As far as low end, not sure if I lost or stayed the same, probably lost as this seems to be the trend. With the 929 already bogging down around 3k, it doesn't help to add to it by adding cams. Now that I've invested into a set, I figure I better use them. I also have motor work (2mm overbore (13:1 compression), port polished head) done so I'm hoping they will help a little more.
 

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mickyboy said:
Just out of curiosity......what sort of difference did the velocity stacks make ?
I didn't dyno the bike before or after the install. But it feels like it pulls harder from 7k on up with no loss below that. FP claims a 2-3 hp increase. In my opinion they're worth the $. They also made the intake honk alot louder, sounds mean when you crack it open now.
 

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Jake said:
CBRBob,
You seem to be quite knowledgeable of these things, and seem to have some experience. Perhaps you can help me with these questions. As stated earlier, I too have the Erion "drop in" cams. I also recently purchased a PC3r to be able to adjust ignition timing. You mentioned having adjustable cam sprockets for your cams. The question is (Quetion #1): Are these two things (cam timing and ignition timing) two different ways of adjusting the same thing, or do they each have a purpose? It seems to me that each one would have its own purpose but do I do not have a lot of experience with either one. (Question #2) Did you go about any means when adjusting your cam sprockets by using a degree wheel, etc, etc., or did you use the stock marks and go from there?

Anyone else that has any info, please chime in.

TIA
Adjusting the cam timing adjusts the timing of the valve events. The PCIIIr will adjust the spark events. The only way you can properly degree cams is with a wheel and a dial indicator on one of the lobes. It is a PITA. Dan Kyle and I tried 3 or 4 different settings and did dyno pulls. We only found it to be worth about 1hp. IMO, not really worth all the time and effort it took. Just like the cams.

FYI, Moris are just about the same as the Erions.
 

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What luvtolean said about cam timing and PC3r Ign. timing is correct. The PC3r controls spark timing. The cams are valve opening/closing. 2 very different things though they will work off each other. The cam timing change I did was meant to move the 'peak' power down the rev range. Instead of peaking at redline, peak a little sooner and move more 'area under the curve' down the rpm range.
Cams on the street are a waste, when can you ride 8-11k ALL THE TIME? On the track they work. As far as timing them, degree wheel, positive stop, dial indicator with magnetic base, etc. If you are going to be checking valve clearances, that is the time to do it as you are 90% of the way into the job already. Check and set clearances prior to making the adjustments. If you are going to install new cams at that moment, check the stock ones for clarance as well. Set up the degree wheel and take the duration and max lift measurements at that time so you can compare. Then install the new cams with the adjustable sprockets on them(I just put one on the int. cam) and set the lobe center to the desired number. 104deg should work well.
By the way, I got my Erion cams off eBay for less than 1/2 retail so it was worth it to me since I was going to be checking valves anyway.
 
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