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Discussion Starter #1
In researching the site for the 3K and 6k hesitation issue (which I have the sputter/slight surge/hesitation) I've found one answer and that's adjust the HTEV. My question to the experienced people who have adjusted their stock HTEV is what is the best position for it to be in at rest with the key on. The book says notch to notch however in my experience with adjusting things like this there is sometimes a position, other than manufactures spec's, that allow the bike to run better. (i.e. dimes thickness above notch to notch, slightly below - get the pic)

Is this case when adjusting the HTEV for the 3K and 6K issue do you stay exactly notch to notch at rest with the key on or other? Thanks in advance for the help all.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
OK just checked the valve and it was about nickels height above the center line so I lined the lines up per the book. I'll report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OK here's the deal.

I removed the flapper valve (and everything with it), blocked off the PAIR valve, adjusted the HTEV so the line rotating line is slightly below the stationary mark vice just above it and installed a 1/16" washer under the o2 sensor.

Results: The surge at 2.5-3K is gone and smooth. I can tell adjusting the HTEV modified the performance because before the bike would jump at just below 3K and now it jumps just above 3K meaning moving the valve the slight amount I did made a difference (neither good nor bad) in valve travel. Power is smoother now throught 2-4K. I can tell the extra air due to the flapper removal takes the jumpyness out at 3K by adding much more air to fuel - Meaning the movement of the HTEV and flapper before made the bike jumpy because of the sudden air and exhaust changes for the computers perf. setup.

I'm hoping the 02 sensor height change will richen things up slighlty and make for better pull in the higher RPM range. We'll see. Ultimately I will incorporate a P3USB and BCM air filter and remove the HTEV completely to complete the engine to my liking.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
We'll things have changed. The flapper did not fix the problem! The surge was still there and I would have changed my original post if I could have. The thing that removed it was wiring the HTEV to the above 8K RPM postion.

I guess the solution to removing the problem was to remove the HTEV out of the system first. Leave the flapper in place until you get a P3 then remove the flapper and PAIR for the new MAP.

I can tell with the flapper gone that there is tooooooo much air in the system and it slighly boggs below 5K BUT the thing pull much more on the top end above 6K than before; This may be due the the linear accel. it had being changed by remove the flapper and HTEV out of the system and the pull was not felt as much because of this.

Either way I am please with the items removed because the surge is gone at 3K and 6K which were annoying and the bike acted as if it would loose power until I ever so gradually added throttle and the thing would jump like the 2002 VFR800 I owned with the VTEC engine.

I blame Honda for not eliminating the issue but I LOVE THE BIKE!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
More updates: I disconnected the O2 sensor and the bike acts better at midrange to high but not as smappy as low RPM but better.
 

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So did you use a HASS eliminator or just wire open the stock HTEV?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
otown929, I removed it completely. The bike is presently at the muffler shop having a custom exhaust made. 4-1 and the 1 is a 2.5" pipe that leads up to the can. Plus I actually had the pipe length shortened about 4" I'll post pic's once it's complete.
 

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you have done so many variables that it's hard to know which one is the key.

at first you removed the flapper, shimmed the lambda, adjuster htev. after that it's pretty hard to know what is the key mod.

I had some problems with throttle in TL1000, what I then discovered, was that the system went lean sometimes, what I did was adjust the Throttle position sensor so that it's advance towards the throttle movement. This makes it to react faster to throttle openings and also to make things richer all around. After couple of seat of pants tests drives, I setled it to 1mm advance compared to the factory setting. this made the bike very smooth and powerfull in low revs.

with 954 I haven't adjusted the TPS, because I have powercommander and it's pretty good as is. I have plans thou to remove the exhaust valve. maybe I build some sort of 'HASS eliminator'.
 

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:deadhors:Sooo i know this was a really long time ago but if anyone is reading this I just experienced the same exact issue. The problem was the barrel valve spindel was not positioned correctly when i tightened the cable control to the spindel. There are two notches. 1 big 1 small and the cable control is faily fixed if you leave them connected which i recommend. But wwhen you go to line up the notches the spindle rotates so freely that the weight of the barrel valve rotates it down 90 degrees. How I know its corrected? It will only fit one way if the notches are engaged and the threads on the spindle will protrude several threads past the nut. It its not engaged correctly the threads will be. Nearly flush with the nut. My bike would rattle as i hit 7 8 grand and basically loose power completely. Once i reassembled the valve it ran perfect. Also note that the valve will appear to be functioning correctly even if its not aligned properly due to the free play in the spindle bushings theres enough room for everything to move as it should even though the valve is connected wrong. Its not super easy to put together due to the spring pressure and freedom of movement on the spindle but once you get it youll know it. Good luck if your reading this
 
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