Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Cant you just remove the damn thing, or keep it in and take your battery and "jump" it to the fuel pump?

IE, take two "jumper wires", connect one to the possitive wire and negative wire of your fuel pump and connect those to the + and - on your battery direct and see if it spins...?

If not you got issues elsewere... Volt meter wires after that Boss!

Thats what I would do!...

AND NEVER jump start with a car! Ha-Ha.. Thats funny.... 2 different voltages brotha!... haha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
180 Posts
Uh..... Im pretty sure the battery in my bike is not the same thats in my car bro...
I have no doubt that they are not the same battery.

However, both your car battery and your bike battery are 12-Volt batteries (as are mine). The physically larger car battery is able to provide more current (amperage); it is not designed to work at a higher or lower voltage.


Amperage and voltage are two different characteristics. Treating the two characteristic as the same would be akin to saying "Hey bro... I can't hear the radio, it's not bright enough!".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
I have no doubt that they are not the same battery.

However, both your car battery and your bike battery are 12-Volt batteries (as are mine). The physically larger car battery is able to provide more current (amperage); it is not designed to work at a higher or lower voltage.


Amperage and voltage are two different characteristics. Treating the two characteristic as the same would be akin to saying "Hey bro... I can't hear the radio, it's not bright enough!".

So since I was not sure on this, I went and looked in my Haynes manual in my garage.. Your right its 12 volts.. For some damn reason I thought small battery = 6 volts? "Its not a small electric car dumb ass" is immediatly what I thought...

Anyway, yes I understand the amperage issue clearly.. But like I said I was being retarded and thought the smaller battery was lower volts.. uggh :crap:

So I say Thank You for your patience while I pulled my head out of my pooper.........:thumb:

Jeez... Im usualy not this retarded day to day, I promise!... Ha-Ha...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
I ran into this problem last year when I bought my bike used. This is what I learned. There are a couple of things to check, first of course is the fuse or fuses. I'm sure that goes without saying. This is probably not the problem considering you are getting power. The second thing to check is the relay. There are two under the tail fairing. When you turn the key to run and flip the run switch, you should hear the relay click. If it doesn't click, the relay is probably your problem. I had a relay that clicked and fuel pump that wouldn't pump so that wasn't my problem. My problem was the fuel pump was gunked up and it siezed from bad gas. I had to replace the gas pump, fuel rail, and fuel pressure regulator. Does the bike turn over when you try to crank it? If it doesn't turn over, the problem could be the sensor in the nose. It senses whether the bike is upright. If that is not plugged up and functional, the bike will come on, but it won't allow the fuel pump to come on nor the fuel pump to come on. Now that I think about it, look up the specks to the relay. There's a way to test it with a volt meter I believe. It it checks out and doesn't click, the roll over sensor in the nose could be damaged.

Couple other things I did troubleshooting. I took a squirt bottle and squirted gas in each combustion chamber of the engine. It would fire and burn the gas and then shut off. I did this to make sure I was getting fire to the spark plugs. After hearing the relay click, I was sure it was my fuel pump. Another thing that can cause it not to start is unfortunately the ECU. I was lucky and I had a buddy who let me borrow his ECU and relay to make sure mine were not broken. That could be your biggest help if you know someone with the same model bike. Did it run after the previous owner had it rewired? I would think the problem has to be between wiring, the tip over sensor, fuel pump, and fuel pump relay.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I ran into this problem last year when I bought my bike used. This is what I learned. There are a couple of things to check, first of course is the fuse or fuses. I'm sure that goes without saying. This is probably not the problem considering you are getting power. The second thing to check is the relay. There are two under the tail fairing. When you turn the key to run and flip the run switch, you should hear the relay click. If it doesn't click, the relay is probably your problem. I had a relay that clicked and fuel pump that wouldn't pump so that wasn't my problem. My problem was the fuel pump was gunked up and it siezed from bad gas. I had to replace the gas pump, fuel rail, and fuel pressure regulator. Does the bike turn over when you try to crank it? If it doesn't turn over, the problem could be the sensor in the nose. It senses whether the bike is upright. If that is not plugged up and functional, the bike will come on, but it won't allow the fuel pump to come on nor the fuel pump to come on. Now that I think about it, look up the specks to the relay. There's a way to test it with a volt meter I believe. It it checks out and doesn't click, the roll over sensor in the nose could be damaged.

Couple other things I did troubleshooting. I took a squirt bottle and squirted gas in each combustion chamber of the engine. It would fire and burn the gas and then shut off. I did this to make sure I was getting fire to the spark plugs. After hearing the relay click, I was sure it was my fuel pump. Another thing that can cause it not to start is unfortunately the ECU. I was lucky and I had a buddy who let me borrow his ECU and relay to make sure mine were not broken. That could be your biggest help if you know someone with the same model bike. Did it run after the previous owner had it rewired? I would think the problem has to be between wiring, the tip over sensor, fuel pump, and fuel pump relay.
That would be my guess. That sensor is very tempermental and will not let the fuel pump run if it's not working right. Usually you can tell just by turning the key. If you turn the bike on and the pump does not prime then it is likely the tilt sensor. (sensor in the nose) If you turn the key and you DO hear the pump prime, then look elsewhere. :thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I think I may have the same issue. Bike just lost power while riding and wouldn't start again or roll start even though i had power to dash/ lights. I checked all fuses. I will try the tilt sensor. Where exactly is it in the nose?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I got a 04 f4i 600 that I bought wrecked. mostly front end damage. Anyway getting everything wired back up except the head light and try to start it. Im not hearing the fuel pump running, I got dash lights and motor turns over even horn works. I tested the fuel pump connector on left side under tank and I have volts. Any Suggestion? Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
i turned the key and no click but it bike will turn over and all my light turn on is it still the relay ? if so how do i know which relay to check ?

The only way to physically test the relay that I know of is with a volt meter. You will need to have the meter on the output side of the relay and when you turn the bike on, you should see 4 to 5 seconds of voltage coming from the relay. I had a buddy with a cbr so I swapped relay's with him to test mine. From that I was able to determine mine was bad. If it's just turning over, chances are it's a bad relay or a bad fuel pump.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,684 Posts
So since I was not sure on this, I went and looked in my Haynes manual in my garage.. Your right its 12 volts.. For some damn reason I thought small battery = 6 volts? "Its not a small electric car dumb ass" is immediatly what I thought...

Anyway, yes I understand the amperage issue clearly.. But like I said I was being retarded and thought the smaller battery was lower volts.. uggh :crap:

So I say Thank You for your patience while I pulled my head out of my pooper.........:thumb:

Jeez... Im usualy not this retarded day to day, I promise!... Ha-Ha...
:rotfl:

Thats all right..

Just remember next time, we have 9volt batteries that fit in our hands..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
394 Posts
The way i would approach this is to check for voltage at the fuel pump wire connection first. If there is voltage present you can dismiss the relay, fuses and the tilt sensor.
If there isnt any voltage then you need to look at the three above mentioned items and then onto wiring itself if they check out good.
The points in the fuel pump end covers have been known to wear with mileage and cause the pumps to act up.
They are replacable so its an easy fix.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
That would be my guess. That sensor is very tempermental and will not let the fuel pump run if it's not working right. Usually you can tell just by turning the key. If you turn the bike on and the pump does not prime then it is likely the tilt sensor. (sensor in the nose) If you turn the key and you DO hear the pump prime, then look elsewhere. :thumb:
This was my problem. Sensor was not upright. Thanks so much. Saved me a trip to my local shop.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top