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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, well let me start by telling what ive been going through with this bike. I bought the bike not running and with a bent 2nd gear shift fork/ bad dog gear. I got the bike running with a ECU and replaced all the needed parts for second gear to work properly. after getting the bike all back together it had an extremely hard time starting cold. I would have to crank it let it sputter and shut off for a good minute or so till it would run by itself and warm up. After warming up the bikes idle would be very choppy and low, maybe in the 600-700 rpm range bouncing like crazy. in addition to that problem it would also fuel cut on me intermittently and only when i was trying to maintain a certain speed (if i was accelerating or decelerating it would act normal). I went through hell trying to figure out what was creating these problems. I had a code on for a servo motor and a coolant temp sensor. I took the cables out of the htev and the servo motor, locked the exhaust valve open and deleted the flapper in the intake and i bypassed the servo motor. In Addition to this i also bought 954RR throttle bodies witht the injectors, fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, etc. Now... The bike starts the same cranking and sputtering for a while till it decides to maintain it by itself. but the fuel cutting issue has been corrected. I ordered a new Coolant Temp Sensor yesterday hoping that it will fix the problem with the idling. The sensor will be here tomorrow. Basically im just looking for some insight, Ive checked the fuel pressure regulator it came with and it was fine.

Oh yeah something i forgot. If i mess with the idle screw both before and after the throttle bodies The idle would get really spuratic and the bike would stall out. Itll maintain the 600-700 rpm range only with the idle set at a certain point... I know... its wierd. Does anybody know exactly how the idle screw works on these bikes? Ive been trying to figure it out by looking at it but i cant figure it out.

Thank you for reading my book any help is great. Gracias
 

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there should be a cable coming from the botem of the bodys that has a black cap on the end that is the idle ajust i think right makes it go down and left gos up
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yeah, i know where the idle cable is. when i adjust it though it doesnt adjust the idle. What im trying to say is what was once a idle control is now a kill switch lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah i checked all the vacuum routing when i took the old ones out and i checked all the hoses for leaks after i found the idling issue and came up with nothing
 

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And the MIL isnt on?

Is the fuel pump priming/running?
Check the connections on all killswitches (bank, stand, on/off)
Does it have a power commander?
Check if all injectors are spraying a nice mist
How are the plugs?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
-Mil is on for a Coolant temp sensor
-Fuel pump goes nice and strong
-No power commander
-Checked all the switches numerous times
-Cant tell if the injectors are spraying a nice mist. How would you recommend me to check that?
-Plugs were replaced at the beginning of the season.
 

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The coolant temp sensor _could_ cause poor running but I doubt this severely. I'd assume that no reading would result in "cold" fueling, ie running rich til warm.

Just in case, disconnect it, and replace it with a 2.3~2.6K Ohm resistor.

For the injectors; two ways
1. Open the throttle, and look down while cranking. Disconnect the coils so it doesnt fire. You should see nice sprays coming from each injector
2. Remove the fuel rail from the TBs and crank
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thanks alot man, im going to try it today and if it works ill have a new sensor to throw in it too :). I think im going to put new injector o-rings in it while im in there too just becasue idk how long they were sitting for before i installed them.
 
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