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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello again, more woes from 929 land lol. So the 929 ignition switch is being a pain and almost left me at work with locked forks. It acts like I'm using the wrong key, goes in but just doesn't work. Well after 30 minutes of "jiggling" I was free. It acts up a little from off to on but not bad yet. I don't want a different key for everything so I have to get a lock set. Questions are, new or eBay? $200 to $100 difference it seems. Also is 954 the same? Can I take it off and have a locksmith rework it?

Thanks in advance, Matt
 

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The age. The work bike is a few miles away so 300 times 2 is morning start and work start vs a long distance rider with the same miles and his key is looking like new. Locksmith has to add growth to the key and the pins it hits. Both are evenly worn rubbed together on entry and exit. So how does the smith add pin length? He'll figure it out. For how much against that new key set?
 

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The lock on my 918 is a bit tired and used to need the key pushed in one direction to be able to operate the switch. After bending one of the keys in the fuel cap lock I rode to the nearest locksmiths and he spent quite a while cutting a pair of keys for me, shaving off a tiny layer each time until they worked perfectly without having to move the key around.
 

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Hmm....

I wonder if ignition lock very worn, under rear seat lock slightly worn, helmet holder not worn at all... Does the new key work in each lock? Or is it just the key that wears?
 

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Hmm....

I wonder if ignition lock very worn, under rear seat lock slightly worn, helmet holder not worn at all... Does the new key work in each lock? Or is it just the key that wears?

As as a result, could the pins from the not really used lock be changed to the ignition lock???

Locksmiths - answers on a postcard please....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the answers. I had a new key made about a year ago because the old one looked rounded. The new key has worked good until recently, I wonder if one of the tabs in the ignition is sticking causing the notches on the key to be ineffective?
 

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Hmm....

I wonder if ignition lock very worn, under rear seat lock slightly worn, helmet holder not worn at all... Does the new key work in each lock? Or is it just the key that wears?
I think it's both the key and the pins in the lock that wear, certainly the key I had looked very well used. My new keys work fine in all the locks now, but if I put pressure on the key when it's in the ignition (which I used to have to do) it now causes it to stick so the lock is undoubtedly worn.

Back when I was 17 I rebuilt the ignition switch in my Suzuki TS125 using the tumblers out of a couple of locks I got from a local breakers, it was pretty easy to do and worked perfectly afterwards (until some revolting little scrote tried to steal it by forcing the lock).
 

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Saxon called it. I had a set of keys for a bike switch. I had the bike switch but no key. I also took apart the key switch, removed the pins so when that key would enter, it only pulled in the two pins I used. The 3rd tiny spring grew legs and I wasn't about to fret about less tumblers to collapse into the key barrel (<call it).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Have you tried a shot of..........................................................


wd-40
Yes the switch gets regular lubrication. I ordered a new lock set from Honda and I'm going to fiddle with the old one, worse case I have a spare lock set, or I sell it.
 

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Regular lubrication keeps the machine in good working condition and the same is the case with door locks also. Ask locksmith experts to do regular lubrication of door locks for their proper functioning.
 

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one thing to check is that there is no twisting along the length of the key - the metal does seem to be like cheese! I have to straighten mine from time to time or it wont unlock!!
 
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