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As I posted in my introduction I picked up a 2002 CBR954 RR as a basket case to try my hand at restoring. (I don't know why I do the things I do as I usually invest more than what its worth. Maybe its the satisfaction of seeing something back on the road instead of the junk yard). Anyway, I got the wiring harness back in and put in the battery that came with it. Tested it at 12.57 volts. (Still don't mean its good and am going to pick a new one up as I don't trust it) but here is my question and I'm hoping someone who owns one can check for me. With the key off and completely out of the bike. If I put the lever on run and press the start button the instrument cluster lights up. Is that normal or should there be no activity from the instrument cluster with the key off and removed.



Thank you


Jim
 

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No ,that shouldn't happen, first what I would try is , with the key out , pull fuse's (one at a time) D, E and F , to see which line the short is on
 

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As I posted in my introduction I picked up a 2002 CBR954 RR as a basket case to try my hand at restoring. (I don't know why I do the things I do as I usually invest more than what its worth. Maybe its the satisfaction of seeing something back on the road instead of the junk yard). Anyway, I got the wiring harness back in and put in the battery that came with it. Tested it at 12.57 volts. (Still don't mean its good and am going to pick a new one up as I don't trust it) but here is my question and I'm hoping someone who owns one can check for me. With the key off and completely out of the bike. If I put the lever on run and press the start button the instrument cluster lights up. Is that normal or should there be no activity from the instrument cluster with the key off and removed.



Thank you


Jim
As Ropp siad, with the key off there should be no power to the cluster. It sounds like you may have power running through a ground, the fuse panel is buggered up somehow, or the start/run switch handlebar pod has a short/mis-connected plug. There could be something messed up with the key switch too, sending power to that pod as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
there is no alarm/immobilizer. When I picked up the bike the main wiring harness was in a box beside the bike. I only installed it in the bike to see if I could replicate the problem of popping the FI fuse when trying to start it so I could begin tracing wires or decide to replace said wiring harness with a used one I know is good. It may not even be the wiring harness which was the problem. I hate it when people just start ripping stuff apart without knowing what they are doing, but it makes for a cheap purchase, lol
Jim
 

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well, after a quick test I determined if I pull the 10 A starter fuse that kills the instrument cluster. Time to start tracing wires... Muhahahahahaha
Look's like you have a live feed from the battery, firstly I would swap the Engine Stop relay with the Head Light Relay to eliminate that, then have a look at the Ignition SWitch ( Red/Black and Red wires) and the barrel itself, then onto the Engine stop switch (White/Black and Black) and finally with the Starter switch with associated wires (Black/Red ,Black, Yellow/Red and finally the White one, if its been unused for a time the switches might be gummed up and need a clean , Use WD 40 Electrical Specialist contact cleaner for those, a 12v Logic Probe would help find where your getting 12v
 
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