900RR charging system issue. The achilles heel of the bike. regulator/rectifier fails, sends overcharged voltage through the system and fries connectors and the regulator itself. Then the stator fries its connector and wires because it the gauge of the wire is too small and melts the 3 pin stator connector and the regulator connector. The subsequent high voltage finds its way to the starter solenoid connector through the red wire and melts the shit out of that too, which sometimes blows the main fuse.Can someone explain me what's going on here?
The Rick's components are the best of the limited choices for replacement. Any of the "other" manufacturers on eBay are pretty much junk. The accompanying regulator/rectifier that are sold with the cheap stuff fail in a matter of weeks, creating the same failures. I have changed to a much larger aftermarket MOSFET style regulator, which after a lot of research seemed to be the next logical choice. The kit for just the regulator was $125, and is hard wired right to the battery, bypassing the original 30a main fuse connector, so that component won't be affected. It seems to be holding well with the Rick's stator i have (on both my 900's).Hmm, I think that explains the burn marks I saw on the water booty at the connectors under the seat... Been meaning to post about that, will trace what they go to.
So are these pricey "Ricks" electrical components I keep stumbling across on ebay the solution?
The standard system seems to have been designed to be able to run all the electrical systems including full beam headlights and radiator fan at tickover rpm. At all other speeds it produces too much energy, which has to be dumped by the voltage regulator as heat, which in the end kills it , followed in quick succession by everything else. The only "proper" solution is to de-rate the system, you can do that by fitting a flywheel with reduced-strength magnets. I also re-wired the stator with heavier gauge wire, all the details are on the site somewhere. Did that work 7 years ago, it's still fine, though it only just produces enough to keep the battery charged. Thinking now about using LED lighting to give me a safety margin.Its hard to tell which goes first. The stator, over time with the thin gauge OEM wire will typically fry the 3 pin connector prior to the reg/rec going. Sometimes it all happens at once. The heat build up from the stator can also fry the regulator connector, which in turn fries the silicone in the regulator. It's definitely a weird subject, kind of like which came first, the chicken, or the egg lol.
SHINDENGEN MOSFET FH020AA REGULATOR/RECTIFIER. GENUINE SHINDENGEN MOSFET FH020AA REGULATOR/RECTIFIER. OEM WEATHER PROOF CONNECTORS FOR SHINDENGEN REGULATORS. The advanced MOSFET construction will run cooler than all OEM diode style regulators.www.ebay.com
Again, the basic problem is that the alternator produces too much power most of the time. The excess watts have to be dumped as heat which is not always possible if ambient temps are high. So then the regulator expires, usually taking everything else with it. One possible solution might be a regulator that can handle higher temperatures...But then you are still over-working the windings of the stator, and what fails there is the insulation. My advice is to de-rate. See posts above.What's the opinion on RICK'S new bolt in/plug in "Hot Shot" MOSFET solution?:
So basically, the consensus seems it's best to replace my rectifier/regulator BEFORE it fries everything right? Or should I bite the bullet and replace bot the rectifier/regulator AND the stator at the same time? Even if my bike is showing no electrical issue symptoms?