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Discussion Starter #1
My Rectifier/Regulator $hit the bed. So I pulled the trigger on a
Ricks. While I had it apart I was poking around and found this,
ugh! I cannot find a starter solenoid connector plug in the states.
I ordered one from China.
 

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Only a matter of time lol

Worst charging system design ever. Honda has known since 1986 that’s their systems suck. The GL1200 Goldwing stators would fry, melting the 3 pin connector On the yellows. Ok, no problem, except that the stator was located on the back of the engine behind a huge engine cover. The motor needed to come out to replace the stator. The Alternating Current Generator (ACG) Kit was then born, a pigtail right from Honda with larger gauge wire to splice in.

What a joke. Like a $1200 dollar job in 1999 money. Be glad you don’t have an old Wingding 😉
 

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Can someone explain me what's going on here?
900RR charging system issue. The achilles heel of the bike. regulator/rectifier fails, sends overcharged voltage through the system and fries connectors and the regulator itself. Then the stator fries its connector and wires because it the gauge of the wire is too small and melts the 3 pin stator connector and the regulator connector. The subsequent high voltage finds its way to the starter solenoid connector through the red wire and melts the shit out of that too, which sometimes blows the main fuse.

Most common problem and is the one issue that will affect every 900RR OEM charging system.
 

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Hmm, I think that explains the burn marks I saw on the water booty at the connectors under the seat... Been meaning to post about that, will trace what they go to.

So are these pricey "Ricks" electrical components I keep stumbling across on ebay the solution?
 

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Hmm, I think that explains the burn marks I saw on the water booty at the connectors under the seat... Been meaning to post about that, will trace what they go to.

So are these pricey "Ricks" electrical components I keep stumbling across on ebay the solution?
The Rick's components are the best of the limited choices for replacement. Any of the "other" manufacturers on eBay are pretty much junk. The accompanying regulator/rectifier that are sold with the cheap stuff fail in a matter of weeks, creating the same failures. I have changed to a much larger aftermarket MOSFET style regulator, which after a lot of research seemed to be the next logical choice. The kit for just the regulator was $125, and is hard wired right to the battery, bypassing the original 30a main fuse connector, so that component won't be affected. It seems to be holding well with the Rick's stator i have (on both my 900's).

108305
 

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Linky for more info on your MOSFET regulator?

Looks to me like the regulator causes all the isssues, then why change out the stator also?

Shouldn't the upgraded regulator on it's own solve the issues, in theory?
 

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Its hard to tell which goes first. The stator, over time with the thin gauge OEM wire will typically fry the 3 pin connector prior to the reg/rec going. Sometimes it all happens at once. The heat build up from the stator can also fry the regulator connector, which in turn fries the silicone in the regulator. It's definitely a weird subject, kind of like which came first, the chicken, or the egg lol.

 

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Its hard to tell which goes first. The stator, over time with the thin gauge OEM wire will typically fry the 3 pin connector prior to the reg/rec going. Sometimes it all happens at once. The heat build up from the stator can also fry the regulator connector, which in turn fries the silicone in the regulator. It's definitely a weird subject, kind of like which came first, the chicken, or the egg lol.

The standard system seems to have been designed to be able to run all the electrical systems including full beam headlights and radiator fan at tickover rpm. At all other speeds it produces too much energy, which has to be dumped by the voltage regulator as heat, which in the end kills it , followed in quick succession by everything else. The only "proper" solution is to de-rate the system, you can do that by fitting a flywheel with reduced-strength magnets. I also re-wired the stator with heavier gauge wire, all the details are on the site somewhere. Did that work 7 years ago, it's still fine, though it only just produces enough to keep the battery charged. Thinking now about using LED lighting to give me a safety margin.
 

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Interesting, lots of reading to catch up on.

Long term plan of mine is a 98-99 swap with full harness in my SC28.

Did late model SC33s have the same issue?
 

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Whilst it is a known weak point, and MOS FET solution is better, in Honda's defence there has to be like 1,000,000's of Honda bikes that are working fine.
Admittedly my 929 one gave up last year but that's after 19-years use, 40,000 miles, and it did it in France in 40c air temp so the poor RR had no chance of getting rid of the heat and fried itself, and the stator (one winding was open circuit). I've seen car alternators burn out much quicker than than this, so whilst its not ideal it does work most the time - of course we only post up when it fails, not every day that that is works perfectly.
 

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could be worse! i replaced 3 r/r, one oem and two ricks brand mosfet type on my friends 07 gsxr 750 in 2 years. finally, we moved the r/r around the corner from where the suzuki engineering team thought best to place it. between the block and the radiator.... next to the exhaust headers. :)

then he crashed it. sold it and bought a cruizer.
 
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