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Discussion Starter #1
I'm sure this topic has been discussed to death and in my searching I haven't found anyone with the same symptoms I'm having. Bike is an '04 F4i and I recently switched the front turns to flush mounted LED's.

Front's are a 3-2 wire configuration utilizing diodes (w/o resistors) and work correctly. Rear is an under tail kit using a relay, which before installing the fronts, worked correctly. The issue I'm having now is the turn signal indicators are now always lit on the cluster and the rear no longer works. I do get brake, but no turn in the rear. I've read elsewhere that this could be from the system now under drawing due to the LED front's, however, the fronts work perfectly and flash at the correct rate. I have also noticed the brightness of the cluster indicator illumination changes with applying the brakes. I'm at a bit of a loss here how to approach this.

Rear set-up:




Front set-up:
 

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I'm sure this topic has been discussed to death and in my searching I haven't found anyone with the same symptoms I'm having. Bike is an '04 F4i and I recently switched the front turns to flush mounted LED's.

Front's are a 3-2 wire configuration utilizing diodes (w/o resistors) and work correctly. Rear is an under tail kit using a relay, which before installing the fronts, worked correctly. The issue I'm having now is the turn signal indicators are now always lit on the cluster and the rear no longer works. I do get brake, but no turn in the rear. I've read elsewhere that this could be from the system now under drawing due to the LED front's, however, the fronts work perfectly and flash at the correct rate. I have also noticed the brightness of the cluster indicator illumination changes with applying the brakes. I'm at a bit of a loss here how to approach this.

Rear set-up:




Front set-up:
Your front looks wrong to me. The orange/white for running light, constantly on, the solid orange is blink. Maybe it's supposed to be that way for your particular light? :idunno:
I guess I'd try unhooking the orange/white (and blue/white on the right side) and see what happens with just the solid orange (and solid blue) hooked up.
About the rear: are they LEDs too?
Is the relay LED compatible?
When I had incandescents in the rear, and LED's on the front, my blinkers went funny too. As soon as I swapped in a new LED compatible relay, everything was good again. They cost about $20 at Cycle Gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The photo I attached of the front wiring is for illustrative purposes. The green is the ground and the two oranges are running lights and blinkers respectively. With the diodes in-line, the fronts work perfectly. I ran them previously in a variety of configurations before doing the 3-2 wire set-up, none of the configs changed the constant illumination on the cluster. I'm assuming it's not closing the loop, but the question is how to resolve. If a relay for the front is the solution, how does that come into play?
 

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I know what each of the wires is for, but diodes are unfamiliar to me. I know they prevent current from back flowing, but that's all I know about them.

If your rear lights are incandescent, and all blinkers get there signal from the relay in the rear, you really need to confirm the relay is LED compatible. And try unhooking the striped wire up front.
Maybe you already did that? Sorry, that's about all the help I can offer.
 

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I did an F4i cluster swap on my 900RR. I got some aftermarket front signals that, similarly to yours, kept the cluster indicator on solid when I wired it up. Mine however was a 3 wire set up. We can all agree that we know Honda does light blue and orange for turn signals. Well, I thought I had it right, but when I first wired it up the cluster signal indicator was on solid, due to the way the orange white travels to the dash from the relay. I was scratching my head for a while, but got it figured out by continually swapping the wires around until it worked properly.

I'm gonna agree with Jon, in that you can't have the orange, and orange/white hooked to the hot together. That's why your cluster light is on solid. It's thinking that that's the running light.

Pics just for reference, but I would undo the running light wire and watch that correct your problem.



 

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I know what each of the wires is for, but diodes are unfamiliar to me. I know they prevent current from back flowing, but that's all I know about them.

If your rear lights are incandescent, and all blinkers get there signal from the relay in the rear, you really need to confirm the relay is LED compatible. And try unhooking the striped wire up front.
Maybe you already did that? Sorry, that's about all the help I can offer.
It may be a Zener diode he's using, to step down the voltage, like the ones in the ignition switches we've read about on here over the years. You know, the one on the Pink wire lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've run these signals in a variety of configurations. Running lights only, blinker only, etc. All had the same effect. The purpose of the diodes was, as many have pointed out in a litany of other threads, was run a 2 wire light on a 3 wire harness. To which, they work perfectly. I have both fully functional blinkers and running lights. No matter what configuration I have run, it still lit the indicators on the cluster. I may try an LED relay on the front to see if that fixes the issue.
 

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I'd be very interested to see how this turns out for you, and how you fix it.
This is something new to me, utilizing all three wires on the two wire blinker.
 
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