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folks--changing front tire tomorrow--any advice/tips on removing front tire?
Also--I put in Shell Rotella T non synthetic auto oil in 1985 honda magna---any issues with this ? 10w-40w.
Thanks
Cliff Z NY
 

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Well, the oil has anti-friction additives and you have a wet clutch, so you might experience slippage using that. Some tell me conventional oil formulated for high mileage vehicles as advertised, doesn't have these additives and you'll save a lousy $8 using it instead of cycle oil. For $8 I don't attempt to use oil designed for cars only personally. I do prefer synthetic oil and Valvoline is only $8 a qt at my local Walmart, 4 qts and it's $32 per oil change plus $7 for the filter. I feel safe going 3000 miles between oil changes using synthetic oil. I don't run a bike for economic reasons, but to enjoy myself. Any ill consequences for not using the best oils just doesn't make sense to me.

The front wheel removal is as follows:
Get bike on center stand, this is the 1st generation Magna, right, 82-86?
Unscrew the speed sensor set screw and remove from the hub.
Remove allen bolts on the right hand caliper.
Remove axle clamp nuts on the right hand side.
Unscrew the front axle from the left hand fork.
Pull the wheel down and forward.
Don't lay the wheel down on the disk, you can warp it. Prop it on the rim with two wooden boards so the disk doesn't contact the ground.
Insert a piece of wood in the caliper so you don't accidentally bump or squeeze the brake lever and pop out your caliper pistons.
make sure when you put the wheel back on, F faces forward on the axle clamp, and finger tighten the bolts first, complete the steps and then set to torque specs for your bike, which is what? 500cc, 700cc, 750cc, 1100cc?
 

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Thanks for the quick response!! I agree with you on the oil subject---I went old school and threw in what I used to throw in---I should drain it and drop in some motorcycle oil. As for the front wheel---seems easy--do the pinch screws have chrome caps on them? How hard is it to remove/replace the tire? thanks again!!
 

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When you re-install the wheel make sure the fork is snug up against the spacer before you tighten the pinch bolt. I followed the shop manual & later found that when you tighten up the caliper; the force used moves the fork outward a tad. As far as oil goes my manual calls for regular automotive oil; don't know what the advantage of using motorcycle specific oil is.
 

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When you re-install the wheel make sure the fork is snug up against the spacer before you tighten the pinch bolt. I followed the shop manual & later found that when you tighten up the caliper; the force used moves the fork outward a tad. As far as oil goes my manual calls for regular automotive oil; don't know what the advantage of using motorcycle specific oil is.
the difference in auto oil..and motor cycle oil is simple..motor cycles use a wet clutch.which means..the friction disk don't need to slip..which is what will happen if you use auto oil..because auto oil has friction modifires in it to make is more..well..slippery..lol...if you use auto oil in a motor cycle..your gonna burn your clutch up..it will slip big time in no time. now..if your in a tight bind..and you don't have any funds for oil made for motor cycles..yes..you can run auto oil in it..but..please do not run it any longer than you have too.
 
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