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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi everyone,

I have a 1999 Firebalde 919 and I thought I would same some money $$$ so I purchased a Ricks Stator and an after market regulator. this was the second regulator I fitted the first one was DOA from Hong Kong. I purchased the 2nd regulator from Amazon and a US supplier, built in Taiwan.

So first I installed Stator with my old and intermittent regulator, all seemed ok. I tested and checked seemed fine. Then I installed the 2nd regulator on the weekend, checked the VAC at the connector and it seemed to reduce at 5000 RPM, so I queried Risks Stators, they advised check connector for VAC when unplugged. I thought I would do this on the weekend.

So I ride down to my local store and then try to start the bike, it was dead, I had ignition, lights but very week battery. I took the seat off an noticed "melted Stator connector"

My question, can a regulator do this or did Ricks stator fail and after my long ride on the weekend melt the connector.

Help, as my only option seems to buy original or OEM
 

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Most fried connectors I've encountered are due to the R/R going bad. Most of the time, the stators are usually still good. If the stator checked out and was still within spec, I would just get a new R/R.
 

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If the stator connector is melted, it's from the voltage/current coming out of the stator. Those wires come from the stator, and go into the reg/rec. The reg/rec then Rectifies it out to DCV and regulates it to the rest of the system. If that stator connector is burnt it's because of the stator. But really all you need is a new connector. It was probably on its way out when you experienced the original reg/rec/stator issue. They can be had by eBay or through Honda. I've gotten quite a few through Honda. Im pretty sure Honda beefed up the wires a bit. This kit was originally used to replace the connector on GL1200 Goldwings. Their stators would go bad all the time, which meant motor removal. Which = big $$$$$. Looks like this:





Once you get it replaced and in good working order (you probably now need a new battery) you need to check the charging system with a multimeter.
 

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Wondering what kind of VAC readings you got from the three sets of legs from the stator when you first tested?
Was the bike warmed up and stator unplugged from the reg/rec? Probes in the connector pins?
Also, the cheaper multimeters we buy aren't completely accurate. Usually close enough though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you all for your feed back. I have searched a lot of forums and the stator connectors seem to be a week point on the earlier Fire Blades, as in other manufacturers as well, Kawasaki and Yamaha have similar problems with bikes around my age and earlier. Today I will test stator and R/R. I emailed Ricks stators and they advised test stator unplugged at 5000 rpm. However if you look at their video they test it connected. When purchase I tested in line for VAC. This is why my reading were good on resistance bad inaccurate on VAC. If tested in line and R/R is faulty it would effect the readings. So after I test I will solder stator connectors to R/R. This will get me moving again. I just hope I haven't fried my new stator and R/R. If all works I will purchase a new heavy gauge connector harness and install. I will post the before and after photos and let you know how I go. Special Note: always keep Fire Blades on battery charger with a trickle setting. Most bikes like ours only charge over 5000RPM for extended times. So if you are just cruising around the city, they don't charge and a new battery can run flat and let you down.

Drybo
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Hi All,

Well just finished stator connector replacement. These are the steps I took.

1. Took Pictures
2. Then cut stator wires and checked, at idle 19 VAC at 5000 RPM 30 VAC to 60 VAC. So stator working
3. Removed R/R tested diode 0.5 V at all 3 points so working
4. Purchased 3 pin connector from Super Cheap Autos $7
5. Tried to solder wire end but had problems, I think the heat dissolved some of the wire coating into wires so they were not clean. I didn't want to cut the wires to much, otherwise I would need to add a wire bridge.
6. Crimped all wires and pins, put into connector.
7.The started to test
8. Battery with no ignition 13.2VDC
9. Battery with ignition 14.8VDC
10.Stator pins tested in line 13.9VAC at idle
11. Stator pins tested in line at 5000 RPM 14.12VAC
12. Checked heat on connector no heat, 3 stator wires warm
13. Checked heat on R/R warm

My thought, when stator is in line the regulator appears to stop the high VAC, so I am assuming it is doing its job. Time will tell.

I have added some pics:) The red wire over the top comes from the battery and under rear seat as a quick charge connection

Sorry having problems uploading photos
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi All,

Day 2, have been riding and when returning home putting bike on trickle charge. I am happy to report the battery does not require charging. It appears the new R/R now charges at lower RPM.

Having problems up loading photos, any tips

Drybo
 

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Hi All,

Day 2, have been riding and when returning home putting bike on trickle charge. I am happy to report the battery does not require charging. It appears the new R/R now charges at lower RPM.

Having problems up loading photos, any tips

Drybo
I use photobucket. A web host is nice as the photos are a bit larger, so you just copy the "IMG" link from your web hosted photo and paste it right in your text body, as here for example:

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok I have attached some pics of the melted stator connector and then my replacement. I downsized the pics and they loaded up. Nice bike, I haven't seen a naked Blade look so retro. Good Job.

Drybo
 

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Ok I have attached some pics of the melted stator connector and then my replacement. I downsized the pics and they loaded up. Nice bike, I haven't seen a naked Blade look so retro. Good Job.

Drybo
Thanks Drybo!
 

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Just read thru all your posts, sounds like you're squared away now.
As you discovered, the battery should be getting a charge even when running below 5000 rpm.
After a week or so of use, you could measure the voltage of your battery at rest. You know, just a periodic check for the next month or so, to help determine if your battery is staying at an acceptable level of charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi all,

I have a 3 stage charger with a connector from my battery that sits under my rear seat. So i keep the battery on charge at all times. Before after a ride it would be on stage one "red light" so it would require charge, then after a preriod of time it would go to stage 3 "yellow Light". Now since i have resolved issue, when I plug in it goes to stage 3 "yellow". So not requiring a charge just on "battery conditioning". With the connector I can check battery without removing the seat.

I wasn't entirely happy with my fix, as I didn't have any flux for soldering iron and the wires appeared to have a coating from the wire covering. I purchased a new connector, my solder iron is a butane, so I will scrape all wires and blow torque any residual covering. Then reconnect. I don't like knowing I have done a quick fix, so I will do the job properly.

After that next Job " Replace Front Fork Seals" So I will be purchasing a head stand some parts, and hit Youtube again and watch a few videos on how to replace seals and sleeves.

Any pointers. I will be using OEM and will also purchase new sleeves and fork oil.

Drybo
 

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I am having similar problems with my blade.
i see you wrote this :

Removed R/R tested diode 0.5 V at all 3 points so working

can you explain a bit more to me how this exactly works? my R/R has 5 connections. 3 hold the yellow wires from the stator, and then there is 2 more. a green one and a red/white one.

how and what do i measure on this R/R?
 

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ah thats perfect! thanks for that link. really usefull.

i measured my R/R. in the troubleshooting guide it says the meter should not read more then 0V550 between the black and any of the yellows. Using my 20$ multimeter i get. 0V572, OV572 and 0V580. Judging as how close they are to eachother and the cheapness of my multimeter this might be due to inaccuracy in the multimeter. Will measure again later today with a professional multimeter.
 

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i checked the R/R with a decent multimeter and all values are .510 so the R/R seems ok.

I am about to replace the molten connector. A problem is that it is so far gone, its impossible to tell wich yellow lead goes to wich connector in the R/R.
Do they have to be in a specific order? or does it not matter to wich connector in the R/R a yellow wire is connected?
 

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i checked the R/R with a decent multimeter and all values are .510 so the R/R seems ok.

I am about to replace the molten connector. A problem is that it is so far gone, its impossible to tell wich yellow lead goes to wich connector in the R/R.
Do they have to be in a specific order? or does it not matter to wich connector in the R/R a yellow wire is connected?
Doesn't matter.
 

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ill second that. it doesnt matter which yellow wire goes where.
 

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thanks for the replies.
I have replaced the molten connector with some thicker wires and soldered everything in place.

I measured voltage on the battery when the engine is running and its about 14.5 Volts. So it seems the R/R is ok and the battery is charging.

I did notice that the wires coming from the alternator ( the three yellows) actually get warm to the touch when the engine has been idling for a while. Not hot just a little warm. Is this normal?

The R/R gets a lot hotter , but i am still able to touch it with my bare hands. Anybody got any idea how hot this thing is supposed to get?

regards,

Sander
 
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