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I've been using Mobil1 for about a decade, and only recently did I switch to something else (Amsoil). It's always worked for me, right at the usual 7.5K change intervals. I got an oil sample from Blackstone Labs on the last few quarts that I ran through my WRX. It had been driven far, and hard in the 8K of the oil's lifetime. Despite that, the results came back that it would've been good for at least another 4K. I currently have over 10K on the Amsoil in my WRX, and just today changed the filter and topped it off, likely extending its functionality for another 10K.

Well, my experience is not unique: http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html

Some of the most interesting info on that link (topping off, rapid wear up until 3K, etc) is at the bottom.
 

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Dude Kudos for taking the time to investigate this, it will save you $ in the long run. The filter always wears out first. Amsoil rates their stuff for 20k, and I wouldn't hesitate using it that far either with a filter swap in between. Don't hesitate to do the same thing in your bike. I wouldn't go as long between changes on a bike, but 10-12k is totally realistic.

A good quote from that site.

"What this means is that compulsive oil changers are actually causing more engine wear than the people who let their engine's oil get some age on it."
 

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Good, I guess I'll stop worrying when I go over the specified oil change interval on my bike and truck! Does the same hold true for semi-synths, like Honda HP4? That's what I'm currently using, although I'm contemplating switching to a full synth like Amsoil or Motul.
 

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Just a general question here: don't the use of full syn oils simply extend the change intervals as opposed to providing a substantial increase in component protection? Reason I ask is, beyond the slippery shifting (which admittedly is a nice plus), I can't see getting away from my dino oil or semi-syn. The work involved in an oil change on a naked bike is so small anyway, I don't mind the eight or ten minutes work.
 

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Bit off topic, but not too much.

I have noticed in my new truck that the oil pressure is a bit high. Almost 60 psi especially when it is cold outside. What do you think about running a lighter weight oil in the winter time?

I'm nearing 3000 miles and beginning to think about my filst oil change. I think I have a coupon for a free oil change from the stealer so I may do that for another 3000, then switch to Mobil 1 or Amsoil. What do you all think?

Thanks for this article. I sent it to my dad as well.

HD
 

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I don't care what the recommended interval is. I'm changing the oil frequently enough that maybe I can spot a potential problem before it becomes a real expensive one. I used Mobil 1 this year.
 

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Heavy-Dee said:
Bit off topic, but not too much.

I have noticed in my new truck that the oil pressure is a bit high. Almost 60 psi especially when it is cold outside. What do you think about running a lighter weight oil in the winter time?

I'm nearing 3000 miles and beginning to think about my filst oil change. I think I have a coupon for a free oil change from the stealer so I may do that for another 3000, then switch to Mobil 1 or Amsoil. What do you all think?

Thanks for this article. I sent it to my dad as well.

HD
I wouldn't run anything thinner than 10w/30 unless you're way up in Canada or Alaska. Most manufacturers recommend 5w30 which is :bs: I'd rather take a whiz in my engine before putting something that thin in there.
 

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The vast majority of engine wear is at cold start-up, and the 5-30 will be better for this, especially when cold. I would not go thinner, but I would use this oil.

Also, an engine is designed to the oil. This means the tolerances in the parts are set-up tighter for thinner oils. IF (and that's a big IF) the dipshits at GM designed the engine properly for 5-30, 10-30 will create more wear.
 

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luvtolean said:
IF (and that's a big IF) the dipshits at GM designed the engine properly
Exactly my point.

Also, if you use synthetic, it bonds to the metal better, therefore you'll have more oil on your cold engine parts before start up, compared to conventional motor oil
 

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ND4SPD said:
I wouldn't run anything thinner than 10w/30 unless you're way up in Canada or Alaska. Most manufacturers recommend 5w30 which is :bs: I'd rather take a whiz in my engine before putting something that thin in there.
There is a danger in running oil that is too heavy. I figure Chevy knows more about this than I do so I trust the 5w30 in the summertime, but I'm concerned about the winter.

Probably woudn't be an issue, but I could also run dino oil too. I mean the manufacturer doesn't call for running synth, but I'm going to do it anyway.
 

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ND4SPD said:
I wouldn't run anything thinner than 10w/30 unless you're way up in Canada or Alaska. Most manufacturers recommend 5w30 which is :bs: I'd rather take a whiz in my engine before putting something that thin in there.
Why do you say this? At operating temp the 5w30 should be the same viscosity as the 10w30 should it not? It's only at startup temps where the 5w30 would be different correct which would be beneficial in colder enviros..... :idunno:
 

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HD, follow the manual. If I remember right my 2001 Silverado had a temp/oil viscosity chart. Find your temp and pic your oil, but I wouldn't stray from that. I'm sure GM tested to the cold temps you'll have it in...
 

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luvtolean said:
HD, follow the manual. If I remember right my 2001 Silverado had a temp/oil viscosity chart. Find your temp and pic your oil, but I wouldn't stray from that. I'm sure GM tested to the cold temps you'll have it in...
That's good advice I guess. I'll do that, but I am going to switch to synth soon.

HD
 

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tigerblade said:
I don't care what the recommended interval is. I'm changing the oil frequently enough that maybe I can spot a potential problem before it becomes a real expensive one. I used Mobil 1 this year.
:clap: I don't what kind of oil you run...if it looks dirty...it is! Even synthetic breaks down really quick under hard conditions. I change mine atleast every 1k or 2-3 track days. I'm anal. It's worth the $ for wee bit of performance and piece of mind I get from fresh oil.

Now in the truck I stick with the ole 3-5k intervals...dino or syn. After 500-1k miles the vescosatiy really drops off....even the good stuff.
 

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I have a friend who has been a mechanic at an Acura dealership for the last 9 years and Honda before that. He tells me he gets Integra’s coming in with 350-400,000km, motor’s never been opened, burning no oil all on regular dino oil at 5000km intervals.

Not sure about the US, but most Honda’s and Acura’s call for 5W-30W
 

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I've used what the manufacturer recommends in my trucks for years...in my old Toyota it was 10w40 dino oil. Changed it regularly..170k + miles. I ran 5w30 in my Ranger..it started much easier in the cold..it had 130k on it when I sold it and it ran fine. Again, I used dino oil. Changed every 3k.
 

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02FBlade said:
:clap: I don't what kind of oil you run...if it looks dirty...it is! Even synthetic breaks down really quick under hard conditions. I change mine atleast every 1k or 2-3 track days. I'm anal. It's worth the $ for wee bit of performance and piece of mind I get from fresh oil.

Now in the truck I stick with the ole 3-5k intervals...dino or syn. After 500-1k miles the vescosatiy really drops off....even the good stuff.
Read that page, most of your wear is in the 1st 3000 miles. So if you are changing it that frequently, the guy letting his oil age is getting better protection than you are. It doesn't matter what it looks like, it needs to be analyzed to find out what is going on.

Furthermore, your statement saying that even synthetic oil breaks down under hard conditions is false. The original post in this thread states that the driver is driving a WRX, which is a high output 4 banger w/ turbo. And he drives the chit out of it. He analyzed his oil at 8k and it was fine. By changing the filter and topping off, it will be good for another 8k at least. And his engine is protected very well.

I'm baffled why people want to stay with age old techniques regarding oil, and don't want to learn anything whatsoever. Blackstone is a good source to find out if you are wasting your $ and put your money where your mouth is.


I change my cage oil (Amsoil) at about 15k miles with a filter swap in the middle at 7.5-8k and topoff. On the bike, I only change the oil once a year with a filter swap after 6 months and topoff. Last time I sent in oil to be analyzed, I was amazed at the results as well.
 

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Chain said:
Just a general question here: don't the use of full syn oils simply extend the change intervals as opposed to providing a substantial increase in component protection? Reason I ask is, beyond the slippery shifting (which admittedly is a nice plus), I can't see getting away from my dino oil or semi-syn. The work involved in an oil change on a naked bike is so small anyway, I don't mind the eight or ten minutes work.
Yeah but why waste the time and money for false "Safe" feelings. Synthetic is a better oil all the way around, and not marginally better, significantly better. It withstands so much more heat. It's a pinto to a Porsche comparison. Yes, if you use Synthetic, you are getting superior protection compared to Dino. Why not change the oil when it needs to be changed? For the newer type Syns, like Amsoil and Mobil 1, get your money out of the product and extend the intervals also. Better protection for the engine, and longer intervals, what don't you still get? :D

The guy that I know personally that knows the most about this subject changes his bike oil only once a year with a filter/topoff mid year. And it was his job to analyze oil and it's protection on engines for his entire career. What is amazing is the newer oils, and by new I mean the development in the last 20 years. The damn oil lasts longer than the filter. 3k mile intervals, that is what someone did 40 and 50 years ago. You don't think oil has changed in 1/2 a century?
 
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