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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I am working on my friends 2008 R6 it has a really weird problem it has 17,000 miles on it and it will not start some times, if you give it throttle you can get it to start but if you do not keep it reved it will just die after it gets warm it will run fine but at cooled starts it just dies and will not start with out throttle.

The dealer told him the valve train needs to be rebuild and this thing sounds great no noise so I think they wanted to sell him an extended warranty.

I hope someone else has had this problem I found the coils out of spec so we replaced them and it ran fine for a little bit but now it's doing the same thing.
 

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Hi I am working on my friends 2008 R6 it has a really weird problem it has 17,000 miles on it and it will not start some times, if you give it throttle you can get it to start but if you do not keep it reved it will just die after it gets warm it will run fine but at cooled starts it just dies and will not start with out throttle.

The dealer told him the valve train needs to be rebuild and this thing sounds great no noise so I think they wanted to sell him an extended warranty.

I hope someone else has had this problem I found the coils out of spec so we replaced them and it ran fine for a little bit but now it's doing the same thing.
Replaced the plugs yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes the dealer said they changed the plugs and air filter, I know the air filter is new because I had to remove it to get the coils out but my Dumb A$$ did not pull the plugs when I had the coils out so I am taking the word of a dealer,

I do know this bike has not been used like it should I don't think he has ever had it over 10,000 RPM I don't know Yamaha's well so I though I would ask.
 

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I would doubt the head needs to be rebuilt but I'd say it's possible the valves need to be properlly adjusted. I would assume the dealer mentioned that because the bike was in for the schedued maintinence interval? At that milage I believe yamaha calls for a valve check/adjust.
 

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Yeah but the last time I check it was not 3000.00 USD to check the valves and or shim the valves.
$3000.00 USD?????? :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

You could by 2 more motors for that kinda money. If that dealer priced a head rebuild at that you need to find a new shop.

My personal opinion!!
 

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You say the coils were out of speck, replaced them, and later the problem came back? YES! Check the coils again. This doesnt sound right to be throttling it while cold and then when hot, stays lit. Makes me want to ask about over revving it and bending valves. Then most likely it wouldnt even run.:cool: Valve adjustment does not effect an engine that drastically, that you would have to keep it throttled while cold. This is sounding more like an electrical problem. Check this bike over for bad connections or loose something relating to fuel and spark.
3000.00 smackers for a valve job/adjustment is also wierd. It probably does need a valve adjustment/check, then as for most bikes, you'll probably find them good, and not need adjustment. One other trick to try; compression test, just to be sure no bent valves exist.
After all this, have a few beers.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You say the coils were out of speck, replaced them, and later the problem came back? YES! Check the coils again. This doesnt sound right to be throttling it while cold and then when hot, stays lit. Makes me want to ask about over revving it and bending valves. Then most likely it wouldnt even run.:cool: Valve adjustment does not effect an engine that drastically, that you would have to keep it throttled while cold. This is sounding more like an electrical problem. Check this bike over for bad connections or loose something relating to fuel and spark.
3000.00 smackers for a valve job/adjustment is also wierd. It probably does need a valve adjustment/check, then as for most bikes, you'll probably find them good, and not need adjustment. One other trick to try; compression test, just to be sure no bent valves exist.
After all this, have a few beers.
The bike runs perfect some times and it does not always need throttle to start very hit or miss, I have allways owned Honda's so I am not used to this problem but keep the ideas coming something may work.
 

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The bike runs perfect some times and it does not always need throttle to start very hit or miss, I have allways owned Honda's so I am not used to this problem but keep the ideas coming something may work.
Somethings loose. Keep it away from that expensive repair shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So I check the coils again and they are fine I have checked everything as far as plugins and wiring looms, This thing is pissing me off.

maybe to much fuel?
 

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Need a manual with trouble shooting and a wire diagram. Compression leak down test is also neccessary. Anomaly is going to be something related to fuel and ignition timming. Obviously.:cool:
I do not have a manual for this bike. If I did, I would only be a second guess. Best you find one(manual) at your end(location) of this forum. I also dont think I would be any further along than you. Dont give up.:cool:
A leak down test will reveal that compression is even across the row of cylinders. This is important to know; because it will illiminate that factor, or tell the condition of this engine. Good compression=then there is no suspition of cause on the engine it self. If you are sure the engine is good then dont bother:) .
I want to say that you have a bad ECU, you need a trouble shooting tree to determine this. It cold just be a temp related sensor that is causing everything else to act up. Before you start down this road look it up in a manual for that bike. You can probably find it online.
 

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I found this on a blog, Just type in 2008 R6 in google.
Make sure you dont have these codes.:) If you do, start your search for information.

R6 Service Manual and Diagnostic codes.
If you get an error indication and a number on the LCD Display, this is what the numbers mean.

11 Cylinder identification sensor failure
12 Crankshaft position sensor failure
13 Intake pressure sensor failure
14 Intake pressure sensor pipeline failure
15 Throttle position sensor wire disconnected or short-circuited
16 Throttle position sensor stuck
21 Water temperature sensor failure
22 Intake temperature sensor failure
23 Atmospheric pressure sensor failure
24 Oxygen sensor failure
30 Lean angle cut-off switch activated
31 Maximum allowable Oxygen sensor correction level exceeded
32 Oxygen sensor correction level too low
41 Lean angle cut-off switch disconnected or short-circuited
42 Vehicle speed sensor or neutral switch failure
43 Monitor voltage -- less than 3v
44 ECU failure
 

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I know my honda has a valve on it that pulles the trot open a bit durring cold starts. It is currently out of adjustement and I have the exact same problem. Look for somthing with coolant lines connected to the T Body linkage. if it is cold and not in contact then adjust it. I need to quit being lazy and o the same. I guess after these 12-15 houre work days are over maybe I will.
 
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