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New to the SC28 and a Question

6K views 29 replies 7 participants last post by  IanDoohan 
#1 ·
Just thought I'd throw an introduction out since I joined the sc28 club. I previously owned a '99 blade, but this is my first of the first gen. I've lurked for a bit, and the mechanical and historical knowledge of the posters here is great... Ian and Nigel in particular.

I bought the bike without seeing it in person and am slightly peeved. It's been dropped on both sides, muffler has a nice size dent on the inside from the swing arm, and the header mounting bracket is broken off. I've purchased a replacement exhaust from eBay already. Will also need an alternator cover which thankfully is still available. It does appear the bike is relatively stock and mostly untampered with, just in need of some TLC.

Some fairings were repainted, but the tank and rears are pretty rough. I'll likely go the aftermarket route for fairings as well as painting the tank and the upper fairing brace once I get done with any mechanical aspects. Still not sure what color to go with, an oem color regardless. Not a wizard spinning wrenches so I'm sure I'll have a ton of questions, and will start with whether I will need to rejet with an oem header, and a two brothers bolt on.

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#2 ·
Hey there Bearcat, welcome to your first post on Fireblades.org!
Thanks for the kind words, we do our best to keep it informative and just as much funny. You have questions, we have answers (hopefully 😉), so ask away.

Your RRP looks like a great investment 👍🏻
 
#6 ·
For just a slip on, or in your case a bolt on muffler, a re-jet is not typical, but that’s not to say you may not encounter a hiccup or subtle change in the way the bike ran prior.

The bike is set up as lean as Honda could make it to adhere to a wide variety of emissions standards across the world. And with w freer flowing muffler, it might add an even further lean condition which could develop popping on deceleration or a lumpy idle. Give it a go and see. Jet kits are still available if you need to toss one in down the road.
 
#5 ·
Hiya Mr Bear and welcome. Thanks also for the compliment; for me it is part of the joy of pursuing bikes as a joy and hobby.

Love your colour scheme, and of course have seen it on here before, but it is not a livery that was on the UK/European distribution. We do have a few now finding their way here through 'import entrepreneurs' often under the guise of my pet hate term: 'barn find'. Here is a sibling of yours: HONDA CBR900 RR-R FIREBLADE | eBay

You might have read that I do have respect for aftermarket fairings (with adequate heat shielding) but I also like to keep OEMs which can be occasionally found during my eBay trawlings. It really does look as if you have a great example to start with and now can proceed with the 'OCD' treatment such as Autosoling (metal polish) the footrest hangars etc, and deciding whether to replace the Dzus fasteners with OEM screws or convert to all Dzus. (y)
 
#7 ·
I finally got her out on new tires. My last bike was an '08 blade which I rode until recently. My first thoughts: she's lovable, certainly not 08 fast, or refined, but that was expected. Once I got on the freeway; however, I remembered just how planted the 900rr feels. On a windy day the '08 would have me scrambling around the lane. There was none of that with the 900rr. And of course, the riding position is much easier on the wrists, she's a joy.

Now, I warned there would be questions. I have a gaggle of gauge lights out. The speedo lights up in the bottom half, tach is ok, and temp is non-existent. All of my dummy lights work fine. Looking at the parts diagram, Honda has two sets of lights, Bulb Wedge Base 12v 1.7w -Stanley, and Bulb Wedge Base 12v 1.7w H.D. -Nippon Seiki. They separate them in the diagram, so there must be a reason.I believe the Stanley (unavailable on Partzilla) is the correct bulb for the gauge cluster? Is that correct?

New (used) Two Brothers bolt on coming in tomorrow, I'll throw her up her in an attempt to keep the thread active. Thanks Gents.
 
#8 ·
I think its down to Wedge base size holder , remembered doing this on a cbr400 I think it was T5 and T6.5 bulbs needed ,the two sizes are different , take out one of the bulbs (Dummy) and compare it to the back lighting bulbs to check, I think I replaced the back light bulbs with Blue ones , looked good
 
#9 ·
There are 2 different size bulbs. If you pop out one of yours according to the diagram, you should be able to immediately see the difference. One is like a regular “dome light” size bulb, and the other is like a “micro” bulb, about 3/4 the size. They can’t be mistaken.

The idiot light bulb I believe is the larger bulb. I may have a pic to differentiate the two. If I can find them, I'll post them.
 
#12 ·
Got a little work in tonight, apologies for the rudimentary nature of tasks & questions, especially in light of the amazing work most of you do on this forum. I'm learning and having fun.

Received the new headers. It looks like there is a bracket connected to the engine as a radiator brace, will removing this give me enough access to remove the headers? I am waiting for the exhaust gaskets in the mail, and will PB blast the studs everyday until the come in as God forbid I break one off in the cylinder in replacing the header.

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As seen they are raw. Did any of the SC28's come with a raw finish, or are these stripped of their paint? I'm unsure if I'll throw some high temp on these or not, I think they'll be relatively pretty without.



Also dropped the mid and lower fairings after some consternation with the fuse box. From the oem fiche I know I'm missing some braces, but for the life of me can't figure out which ones I have, and which ones I need on the right side.
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It looks like I need the inner brace for the inner fairing and upper cowl, as the PO looks like he fabricated this himself ?

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#13 ·
Got a little work in tonight, apologies for the rudimentary nature of tasks & questions, especially in light of the amazing work most of you do on this forum. I'm learning and having fun.

Received the new headers. It looks like there is a bracket connected to the engine as a radiator brace, will removing this give me enough access to remove the headers? I am waiting for the exhaust gaskets in the mail, and will PB blast the studs everyday until the come in as God forbid I break one off in the cylinder in replacing the header.

View attachment 108259

As seen they are raw. Did any of the SC28's come with a raw finish, or are these stripped of their paint? I'm unsure if I'll throw some high temp on these or not, I think they'll be relatively pretty without.



Also dropped the mid and lower fairings after some consternation with the fuse box. From the oem fiche I know I'm missing some braces, but for the life of me can't figure out which ones I have, and which ones I need on the right side. View attachment 108260


It looks like I need the inner brace for the inner fairing and upper cowl, as the PO looks like he fabricated this himself ?

View attachment 108261
We are all learning matey, and any question that gets a reply adds to the knowledge, always a good idea to use Partzilla Microfische as a parts diagram ;)
 
#14 ·
The fairings might be aftermarket. I couldn’t tell from your zoomed in pic about the fairing stay/mount. There is a proprietary bracket for the fusebox and associated connectors that should attach to the inner fairing “cover” of the actual upper fairing.

As for your headers, those look like stainless 98-99 headers, which will bolt right on, however I’m afraid your new end can will not. The rotation of the 3 bolt flange at the end of the mid pipe is different. What that means is the rotation of the can will be off and the end of the muffler may be directed in towards the tire or out towards the side. Give that a look by matching them up.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Thanks all! There is a saying at my job when someone messes up, "it's best to get us involved early." I think that might apply here too. :D The header bolts came out relatively easily, only pulling one stud. Thanks Honda!

It appears Ian is right, despite the eBay description of 93-95 :confused:. I did a mock fit up, and it is slightly askew. So I am now left with a few options. Paint the one on it currently and throw it back on without the bracket which I'm not too fond of, throw the 98-99 pipe on and deal with the slightly weird angle, or continue shopping. I am not sure if this angle will bother me, it does appear to line up with the bracket; however, I did not get the bolts tightened to the studs enough to be positive. If there aren't any other issues that may come from having the exhaust pointed in, I might give it a try.

Or, I suppose I could get another muffler. Am I correct in saying purchasing a 98-99 muffler will give me the correct orientation? If so, that may actually be the best route, as I'm fond of the raw finish of the headers, and there appear to be many more aftermarket options than the sc28 mufflers.



There do not appear to be any great options on eBay right now for headers. Good news is, I now have a waiting game for parts and have some time to decide and get the bike cleaned up well.


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I appreciate the response on the brackets, they do appear to be the oem fairings; however, I have not had the front off to tell. The mid and lower fairings do have the part numbers stamped. I'll continue to study the parts fiche.
 

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#18 ·
Making a bit of progress. Currently installing steel braided brake lines as the ones on the bike are shot cosmetically and soon to be structurally.

Got in the bulbs, and they are in fact the larger size for the gauge. I am still missing some of my tach, which is a smaller light. Honda appears to not make them anymore. Does anyone know a source for the smaller lights in the gauge, or at least what I am looking for exactly? Thanks
 
#19 · (Edited)
Hi , I got mine from here , but do a bit of investigating as to which bulbs you need, you can also get the bulb holders here, different colours too for the Instrument Panel
and
 
#21 ·
Nice bike. My favorite factory color scheme.

How did mounting the stainless SC33 headers go?

I've read they bolt right on, but then I've also read the lower bracket doesn't sit right. Do you have any close ups? How did you remedy this?

Yes, purchasing a "bolt-on" 96-99 pipe will solve your pipe angle problem. To be honest though, the angle is nowhere near as bad as I always thought it would be.
 
#22 ·
Thanks! I agree, the angle isn't too much of a concern for me currently.

Headers went on without any fuss. I've started it and don't detect any blow by at the cylinders. You are correct, it appears that the lower bracket does not quite sit right with the 96-99 headers. In the midst of this I've learned the PO has fixed up what I believe are R6 passenger pegs, along with a nice homemade bracket to hang the previously stock muffler 🤨. Part of the fun I suppose. I am awaiting stock 900rr passenger pegs along with the attached correct hanger to determine how far off the pipe/bracket will be. If anything it's close, and I am hopeful I can find something to connect them, as that was the main reason for staying with the 96-99 pipe (along with the stainless look). Once I get the pegs in, I will take a picture to show exactly how far off it is, and I'm sure I'll be asking for solutions 🙂
 
#23 ·
Dualheadlamps:

Here is the picture of where it is currently lining up with the sc33 headers. Muffler is a Two Bros with a Two Bros M2 Exhaust Clamp. The gap between the mounting points is relatively small horizontally, and I would assume would bolt right up if it was vertically aligned.

I am not quite sure how I am going to tackle this issue. Ideas are always welcome. 🤙
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#24 ·
This is with the alignment at the lower bracket with the home made pipe bracket right?

I'm curious to see the difference with the proper factory pillion peg bracket.

If it stays the same, I would just fabricate a small piece of metal with two holes to connect the tow points. Nut and bolt on the header into custom bracket adapter, factory bolt into factory mounting point.

The proper way would be to weld on an extension on the factory header. If you have the stainless welding skills that is.

If you still want to do it right but don't have the welding skills, mock it up, make the adapter plate out of cardboard, use a sharpie to your delight for alignment references and find a competent stainless welder. Or just take the whole bike to said competent stainless welder.

Make sure you use stainless filler material for the welding if you do this!
 
#29 ·
I came across a fun new issue the past two days. When I turn the ignition on, all lights work, dummy and signals. However, I have no headlights, and no starter. Occasionally it will work, especially if I fiddle with the ignition connector. But more often than not. No go. Any idea what could be causing this?

So far I've replaced the alternator cover, and brake lines. I had the gauge cluster off to repair the front fairing.
 
#30 ·
The starter switch turns off the headlight to keep all available power going to the starter. Sometimes the switch gets dirty, messed up, or infested with spiders lol. Take the right hand control pod off the bar and clean it our. take pictures of the innards so you can reassemble it correctly. That could be it, or at least a contributing factor.
 
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