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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 98 RRW Blade, and it was idle for a month, outside, covered.

Went to start it up, and the battery was flat.
Charged the battery, and wired it all up.
The bike refuses to start now.

Changed the plugs for new ones. Still no luck.

Checked the sparks for a spark, and there's no spark from all leads.

Checked for voltage at the wire connector from the ecu to the coil pack, and power is present.

There appears to be no power from the coil pack, through the ht lead, to each plug.....

At my wits end here. Any suggestions?
Kind thanks

the bike cranks over, but due to no spark - doesn't fire up...

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
For it to be both the coils at fault is highly unlikey?

If it was the leads, surely there'd be weak sparks etc.

But for there to be NO spark at all from all 4 is baffling...

Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
 

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For it to be both the coils at fault is highly unlikey?

If it was the leads, surely there'd be weak sparks etc.

But for there to be NO spark at all from all 4 is baffling...

Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Not so much. Could be a lack of voltage to the ICM, faulty ICM, faulty ignition pulse generator, or faulty safety switches.

Got a multimeter?
 

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I haven't got a multimeter, no.

I could go and by one if it means getting down to the problem.

Thanks
Yes it will, go get one. Digital one and with a 10 megaomn impedance, necessary to protect delicate circuits within the ICM and any other integrated circuitry you ever use it for.

Don't be cheap, this tool can save you thousands of dollars in repairs in the future if you'll teach yourself how to use it.

I've got a toasted ICM right now, that I'm waiting for the replacement to come in the mail. Wouldn't have ever figured it out without one, not like I have extras just laying around lol.

Which actually its a bad idea to just plug something like that in and just see anyway, because if there is a bad circuit that took the last one out, guess what it's gonna do to the new one?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok will buy one in the morning.

Are you able to tell me what to test, where to find it, and what the readings should be?

Many many thanks,
Simon
 

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Will await your advice/instructions

kind thanks!
Well you said there's power at the coils, I'm assuming you used a test light since you need to purchase a meter?

Check the leads on the Yellow/Blue and Blue/Yellow terminals as these are on the return side to the ICM and will let us know the primary side of the coils are functioning. You want battery voltage.

Then check the Black wire at the ICM for battery voltage.

Then set your meter for a continuity check (read the manual) and check between the Green wire and the negative battery post. You want tone and 0s or a blank screen (depends on meter, but they all tone).

We'll skip checking the coils right now as it's unlikely that both went bad simultaneously.

Let me know your results.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Will get the battery charged today, and will run the tests you mention. Will report back if not today, then tomorrow after work. Kind thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Ok - no where has multimeters in stock!!! :(

Got my hands on an electrical probe tester for the moment.

Checked the Black wires for battery voltage, and there's power there.

Stuck the probe in the HT lead (where the plug goes), and still nothing when cranked over.

Is there anything else I can check with limited tools???

Kind thanks, VERY tempted to just buy a spare set of coils & leads..... seen some on ebay for £30....

ANY FURTHER HELP APPRECIATED!!!!
Thanks,
 

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Stuck the probe in the HT lead (where the plug goes), and still nothing when cranked over.
I wouldn't be sticking anything in there! You're lucky it's not sparking otherwise you'd have risked quite a shock:eek:

I'm surprised you can't find a multimeter - try a Halfords, Maplin, Screwfix, ebay etc, etc...

I don't think the replacement coils are going to help - it would be astonishing if both had failed simultaneously.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Buying a multimeter now off eBay...
Will have to report back once it's arrived...

I hope I can get to the bottom of this prob.

Thanks so far
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Is anyone able to tell me how to test the ignition pulse generator please, so when the multimeter arrives I'm good to go - just saving time on posts etc.

Kind thanks BTW.
Simon
 

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You need a multimeter that measures frequency or dwell (kind of related). You should then be able to measure the frequency of the pulse generator. If you get a reading, then you've got a pulse.
 

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You need a multimeter that measures frequency or dwell (kind of related). You should then be able to measure the frequency of the pulse generator. If you get a reading, then you've got a pulse.
Actually you dont. All you need to do is set the meter for AC 2v scale at least. This pulse generator is the hall effect sensor type that generates it's own electricity. An oscilloscope(frequency) or dwell meter would show a signal, but that doesn't mean that the voltage is high enough to trigger the ICM to fire. You have to measure volts and neither tool does.

You want at least 0.70. For example, mine reads .90 when it's cranking and would be higher as the RPMs increase, just like a generator.
 

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Ok - no where has multimeters in stock!!! :(

Got my hands on an electrical probe tester for the moment.

Checked the Black wires for battery voltage, and there's power there.

Stuck the probe in the HT lead (where the plug goes), and still nothing when cranked over.

Is there anything else I can check with limited tools???

Kind thanks, VERY tempted to just buy a spare set of coils & leads..... seen some on for £30....

ANY FURTHER HELP APPRECIATED!!!!
Thanks,
Sorry, I somehow missed a few posts.

Yeah don't mess with the business end of the plug wires, not likely it would kill you unless you had a bad heart, but it'll hurt a lot. Not to mention, you'll blow either the fuse in or even the meter itself doing that. 1000s of volts coming out of that wire....

Well if your not getting peak voltage, it's gonna be either a failed safety switch, a bad IPG (ignition pulse generator), a bad ICM, or a fault in the wiring between the associated components.

You can use that meter to check the black wire for voltage at the ICM plug and the green wire at the ICM plug for ground if it has the ability to do continuity. Just unplug the ICM first and don't ever plug or unplug that connector to the ICM with the key on.

Does that probe tester do AC? if so disconnect the plug to the IPG, while probing both contacts leading to the IPG, try to start the bike and look for that reading to be above .7
 
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