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Im trying everything, and getting nothing. New plugs, new battery, new crankshaft sensor/pulse regulator. Replaced camshaft position sensor. Still nothing. Bike gets power, fuel pump primes, can smell fuel thru through exhaust, tries to crank.....but no spark. And all this so suddenly. Im stumped. Any help plz. My next step is dropping it off at Honda and awaiting the $400 or better invoice theyre gonna come with :mad:
 

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Im trying everything, and getting nothing. New plugs, new battery, new crankshaft sensor/pulse regulator. Replaced camshaft position sensor. Still nothing. Bike gets power, fuel pump primes, can smell fuel thru through exhaust, tries to crank.....but no spark. And all this so suddenly. Im stumped. Any help plz. My next step is dropping it off at Honda and awaiting the $400 or better invoice theyre gonna come with :mad:

I assume it's not flashing any codes on the dash?
Do you have power at the coil harness connector?
 

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Yes its flashing codes however I have no idea how to read them.

You've tried all the things you mentioned but it never occurred to you to download or buy a manual for your bike?
 

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Its called impatience, but yes I downloaded a manual this morning. Thanks.

That was an awful lot of time and money you put into avoiding getting a manual ;-)
The manual has all the codes and explains how to read them.
Let us know what they are if you can't sort them out.
 

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It could be several things I have learned since mine done the same thing. Under your ignition their is a diode and if the diode goes out no spark can happen. Check to see if you have 9v on the pink wire coming out of the ignition while cranking the bike. Also if the cams are not in perfect or close to perfect timing a no spark can happen. If the cams are out of timing the cam pulse sensor does not get the proper readings and cuts off spark. Hope this helps you out some. Don't forget to check the coils. There is also a possibility that the ECM went but that is a far out possibility. You can check the entire ignition in chapter 17 of the manual.
 

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It could be several things I have learned since mine done the same thing. Under your ignition their is a diode and if the diode goes out no spark can happen.
What do you mean under the ignition?
I have had trouble b4 but I am going to start fresh. I have no spark. I did not use a new plug for the spark test but what I did use should have plenty of mileage (Ichanged them b4 but no help) The battery has been tested:good. Voltage when cranking:good Test the primary wire + ground I get battery voltage:good. Next is to test peak voltage. Is a peak voltage adapter absolutely required? I used just the tester and what I get is batt voltage:abnormal. I switched ECM same result.
What happened in about 3-4 starts it got harder and harder to start until no start at all.
 

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What do you mean under the ignition?
I have had trouble b4 but I am going to start fresh. I have no spark. I did not use a new plug for the spark test but what I did use should have plenty of mileage (Ichanged them b4 but no help) The battery has been tested:good. Voltage when cranking:good Test the primary wire + ground I get battery voltage:good. Next is to test peak voltage. Is a peak voltage adapter absolutely required? I used just the tester and what I get is batt voltage:abnormal. I switched ECM same result.
What happened in about 3-4 starts it got harder and harder to start until no start at all.
Underneath your ignition switch (where you put your key in) their is a small diode, and if that diode goes out it will cause a no spark. You can check the pink wire coming from the ignition switch and see if it has 9v. If it does then the diode is good and you can move on.

Honda Motorcycle Parts 2002 CBR900RR A HANDLEBAR + TOP BRIDGE Diagram

It is part number 4 in the diagram above. That is the part with the diode.
 

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What do you mean under the ignition?
I have had trouble b4 but I am going to start fresh. I have no spark. I did not use a new plug for the spark test but what I did use should have plenty of mileage (Ichanged them b4 but no help) The battery has been tested:good. Voltage when cranking:good Test the primary wire + ground I get battery voltage:good. Next is to test peak voltage. Is a peak voltage adapter absolutely required? I used just the tester and what I get is batt voltage:abnormal. I switched ECM same result.
What happened in about 3-4 starts it got harder and harder to start until no start at all.

Does it start after you charge the battery?
Measure the battery voltage with the engine running.
 

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Does not spark with full battery. The last time this happened and it did decide to start running again I checked every part of the charging system:all good. I checked pulse generator, all that.
Last time I tested and replaced with new the ig. switch, even though I think the tests were good. (I put the old 1 back in) The pink wire + ground I assume. This should be energized all the time or only when on + run? I probably tested this 1 once b4. Where is the break in the harness? Should it stay connected when testing? I will see if I can get 9v in any way.
 

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What I am getting:System on, primary + gnd. - I get initial (batt.) voltage. When cranking I get normal batt. voltage (about 11.5v), but not even a hint of getting 100v. As I wrote, I switched out ECM that I am pretty sure is good. Same results. I did try a known good plug and mult. boots and harness connections. From what I am getting by test I would say ECM is bad. If I am missing the peak volts b/c I don't have the proper tester, it would seem to be the coils. But all 4 of them? Is this how coils go bad? I suppose if this is what I am down to I can get a coil/boot that is known to be good. Getting an ECM that is known to be good may be more difficult.
When doing the peak voltage test the book reads:
Initial voltage is normal, but no peak voltage while cranking the engine. 1. Faulty peak voltage adapter connections. 2. Faulty peak voltage adaptor. 3. Faulty ECM (in case when above No.1, 2 are normal).
Initial voltage is normal, but peak voltage is lower than standard value, 1. The multimeter impedance is too low; below 10 MRiDCV (probably can strike this one also. I used this tester for the pulse generator and it worked fine) 2. Cranking speed is too low (battery under-charged). 3. The sampling timing of the tester and measured pulse were not synchronized (system is normal if measured voltage is over the standard voltage at least once). 4. Faulty ECM (in case when above No. 1 - 3 are normal).
Initial and peak voltage are normal, but does not spark.
1. Faulty spark plug or leaking ignition coil secondary current ampere. 2. Faulty ignition coil (s).
 

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