Non starter,(demented)

Hi, im measuring pink wire to ground and getting nothing, if I keep my test wires connected and Toggle the on-off switch I'll get up to 1.5 volts, the reading differs everytime you put the switch on and off, I've connected a 9 volt battery,during the test it stopped the fuel pump from priming, if I separate the multiplug from the loom and remove the hiss from the top of the ignition barrel I get 5 volts at the pink wire which is part of the loom side then reconnect the hiss then I'm back to 00.1 with the kill switch in run position and 0.03 when it's not in run position.
There is no zener diode in the back of the ignition switch either there never has been by the look of things, can't see a voltage step down in the loom,12v-9v adapter, it would be fairly easy to notice something that size, I've used this bike now for the past few years and the other day had to push start it at the petrol station as the battery went dead, rectifier issue. Got home on 12.2 volts for 40 miles, it started another six times afterwards as I was swapping out rectifiers, got one that was putting 14.4 back into the battery then it started idling a bit erratically, did that for a couple of minutes then cut out, pump primes, loads of fuel pressure, just no spark getting to the spark plugs,strangely enough I found myself tapping the back of the hiss module in hatred of it and noticed the volts jump up and down within the 1 volt range but when I finally ran out of amusement I stopped hitting it and it did its usual 0 - 0.01.... to add insult to injury I've got it up for sale this week before all this happened,fs...

The RR failing can take out the stator. The RR failing can also fry the ECU as they sometime fail to shunt power until the voltage has got too high, but lets hope not.

I assume all fuses, relays, and battery are all good?

Is there 12v at the injectors and coils (black wire with white strip? also check cam sensor wires for cuts/breaks. It will prime and crank in both cases but will not start (although the cam sensor should though a code in the ecu and make the MIL light flash the error code).

with all the ignition bits in place, inc HISS and pink wire, is the Engine Stop Relay ('ESR') clicking in? If so thats a good sign and means the pink and HISS are ok and the ECU is powering on the circuits. If the ESR is clicking-in then there should be 12v on the coils and injectors on the black wire with white trace.

There is the 'evil connector of corrosion' in the loom - this effects both ground and 12v feeds to lots of circuits. its inside the loom. if the ESR is ok but you do not have 12v at the coils/injectors then this might be the issue. if you have volts on the injectors and not the coils then this is very likely to be the issue - see pictures below.

lastly if the ESR is not clicking in then perhaps the zennor diode is goosed? You could take the pink wire out the connector (or cut it but for a test I'd try and remove the pin out of the connector with a small jewellers screwdriver or similar) and try the 9v battery trick to be sure, it not a good idea to have it connected to the switch and 9v battery at the same time. The pink 9v thing is for USA as they didn't get HISS originally so its the only line of anti-theft they got, and the two things are separate (the US ECU is different internally as there is not HISS circuits, not wires for the HISS pickup round the ignition switch). Removing HISS wont fix anything and the bike definitely wont start without it.

Thank you for getting back in touch.😀😀

All fuses are in working order, battery is never off the trickle charger just now, but got a new battery today just to rule that out.

9pin mutliplug going to coils is getting battery voltage at black wire - white stripe and also blue and black wire next to it.

8 pin multiplug going to the Injectors is getting battery voltage at black wire - white stripe and also getting 5.2 volts at yellow wire - red stripe.

Esr activates fuel pump relay as it should then deactivates after its did its priming thing, fuel pump is activated for the duration of time you keep your finger on the starter button, also swapped the relays over for fuel pump and fuel cut off ( next to bas ).. same result as I've just explained.

I uncovered the orange block of doom and spray cleaner in there and reconnected, it made no difference although I'm going to remove it again and use sand paper,dremmel.to clean the spades a bit better,( worth a try ).

Also got continuity from the pink wire from ecu to multiplug at hiss connector.

Looking through other posts there was a situation where another member was saying he got 0.4 volts on the pink wire and 3.5 when cranking which was normal and that eu bikes didn't have the zener diode and he put it down to a tooth missing on the cam as it was placed one tooth out in the rebuild and if its not correctly lined up there is a security measure to stop it from sparking,sadly he hasn't updated the post in the past four years to find out and report his findings.

Is it probable that my bike has a cam timing issue.