[mrtarivera]

Have a 2006 Honda CBR 1000rr. Was going to change coolant to Engine Ice because bike normally around temp 200 and 230 in traffic. From what I'm told with Engine Ice operating temp 165-170, Awesome! Problem is today found both my reservior and radiator with barely "red" liquid coolant in it. Instead what I found was a lot of a light tan sludge (like chocolate milkshake) in both places and it reeked of motor oil. Tried flushing several times with "boiled Distilled Water", but the sludge is still there. Water will follow out, but after water gone - sludge still there. What is going on? Can anyone help?

 

[bladeracer]

Have a 2006 Honda CBR 1000rr. Was going to change coolant to Engine Ice because bike normally around temp 200 and 230 in traffic. From what I'm told with Engine Ice operating temp 165-170, Awesome! Problem is today found both my reservior and radiator with barely "red" liquid coolant in it. Instead what I found was a lot of a light tan sludge (like chocolate milkshake) in both places and it reeked of motor oil. Tried flushing several times with "boiled Distilled Water", but the sludge is still there. Water will follow out, but after water gone - sludge still there. What is going on? Can anyone help?

Is there any coolant in the crankcase?
You need to do a compression test to see if your head gasket is intact.
Then do a pressure test on the cooling system to try to identify where the leak is.

 

[mrtarivera]

I haven't check that yet, but definitely will. As far as the compression test and pressure test I'm not that Sportbike saavy - so I will try to get it to the shop. Do you think I could still put coolant in the bike and ride it? Not sure if that sludge is still in there how it would react with the new Engine Ice coolant. Or should I just load it on the trailer and have the shop look at it?

 

[bladeracer]

I haven't check that yet, but definitely will. As far as the compression test and pressure test I'm not that Sportbike saavy - so I will try to get it to the shop. Do you think I could still put coolant in the bike and ride it? Not sure if that sludge is still in there how it would react with the new Engine Ice coolant. Or should I just load it on the trailer and have the shop look at it?

I would just put water in there until you find out if there's a problem.

 

[unfetteredmight]

You have a tear in your head gasket, but it's only bad enough to let oil in the cooling system and probably not the reverse. Check your engine oil to be sure.

I've seen this myself twice, the tear is sending hot oil and gases into the cooling system which is why it's overheating. I've pondered how this occurs and my best guess is when they tear like this, it works like a check valve. Whereas combustion pressures of 170-180 psi can overcome the "valve", cooling systems that typically run around 15 psi, cannot....yet.

Blade is correct in that a compression test is needed at this point to confirm, but I've never seen this happen and it wasn't a blown head gasket. If no water is present in the oil, count your lucky stars you didn't wash the bearings out and haul that bike to the shop, do not drive it.

Not only is the overheating hard on it, but if the gasket continues to tear, you could flush the bearings before you get there.

Good luck.

 

[CapnMorgan]

I put my money on a bad water pump. the mechanical seal in the coolant pump is below the oil level when the bike isn't running and on the side stand and seeps through.
I wouldn't run the engine at all until you get it checked out.

my 04 1k runs about 200 in the city, sometimes reaching 210ish and in the 170s-180s when constantly moving above 40mph. I just use coolant and no additives.

 

[mrtarivera]

Thank you everyone for the feedback. I currently got the bike in the shop waiting to hear "good news" (thinking positively). My mechanic thinks the same (or hopes) that its just the head gasket. But she said that she won't know until she takes a closer look and do the test. Just out of curiosity (as a remedy) if its not the head gasket and its something like the block that's cracked or whatever. Do any of you recommend using dura-seal? Or don't even touch that stuff and just get an engine swap?
BTW I did take the bike to the shop on the trailer. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[mrtarivera]

I still haven't heard anything on my bike; but I do have a question. Is it possible that if someone was dumb enough (me) to drop their bike on the same side as the coolant reservoir, radiator cap, etc. to have this same problem? When I dropped my bike some weeks back I couldn't believe it and stood there in shock for a bit. My bike probably laid down for about good a minute before I picked it back up. Could this be the reason for the oil in the coolant as well?

 

[Rendell]

I still haven't heard anything on my bike; but I do have a question. Is it possible that if someone was dumb enough (me) to drop their bike on the same side as the coolant reservoir, radiator cap, etc. to have this same problem? When I dropped my bike some weeks back I couldn't believe it and stood there in shock for a bit. My bike probably laid down for about good a minute before I picked it back up. Could this be the reason for the oil in the coolant as well?

I would guess it's possible. But more importantly you have Female for a Mechanic? That is beyond awesome!:thumb:

 

[bladeracer]

I still haven't heard anything on my bike; but I do have a question. Is it possible that if someone was dumb enough (me) to drop their bike on the same side as the coolant reservoir, radiator cap, etc. to have this same problem? When I dropped my bike some weeks back I couldn't believe it and stood there in shock for a bit. My bike probably laid down for about good a minute before I picked it back up. Could this be the reason for the oil in the coolant as well?

Hmmm...not that I can see. The cooling system is sealed to retain pressure.

 

[bladeracer]

I would guess it's possible. But more importantly you have Female for a Mechanic? That is beyond awesome!:thumb:

That is pretty cool

 

[mrtarivera]

Here's the update. As some of you stated (and per my "female" mechanic): bad head gasket and waterpump. However the thought is the waterpump went bad because of the gunk in it from the cooling system. Price is more than what I wanted to shell out, but for what it's worth I know it could be worst. She's charging me $566.00 + tax (total) for pump, gasket and labor - which is really good compare to most shops. She has no overhead so her prices are not inflated and very competitive. If any of you are in the area she's based out of Ocala, FL and the shop is called Taboo Toyz. Thank you again everyone and I will still keep you posted with progress.

BTW, some of you were right too - dropping my bike did not cause this problem. How I wish it did!

 

[Rendell]

(and per my "female" mechanic):

When I said "female", I didn't mean to offend. I chose "Female" over "Chickie", "Girlie", it could go worse from there. I chose it that way as to show respect. I apologize if I offended.

 

[mrtarivera]

I'm the one that's sorry. I didn't mean to imply I was offended - I was only making an emphasis again that my mechanic is a female. Some of you think it’s cool and so do I. I have always appreciated a woman (chickie, girlie, chica, female, etc) that can have a passion for bikes or cars and able to work on them. It is really awesome considering mostly men dominate in this area. No worries - not offend.