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Discussion Starter #1
Hello!
I have a 2002 954rr and I need a little help.
When the bike is warm (80 degrees celsius and above) and idiling the oil pressure light starts to flicker on and off like a christmas tree. As soon as I give even the smallest amount of throttle the light disappears. The bike's idle is kind of unstable, but not anything dramatic. The needle moves about 50rpm up and down constantly, and I think I hear it misfire from time to time, but the sound is too subtle for me to be sure. There is no issue during warmup. At cold starts there is no oil light nor unstable rmp. The bike performs perfectly. There is no loss in power or any other strange issues.
Up until recently it had a nasty chain rattle. I adjusted the valves and changed the CCT, but the sound was still there. Turns out it had a badly stretched cam chain.
After I replaced the chain the bike ran like clockwork for about a week (100++ km a day), and then this sh*t happened.
Any help would be much appreciated before I roll the f**king bike off a cliff.
 

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Apologies if I'm overstating the obvious, (apart from low oil) but that truly sounds like a loose/abraded connection issue at the sensor switch. On the rough idle the wire is not making full contact but when revved (and warm) it has expanded enough to be okay.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I haven't got to checking the sensors yet, but I went to speak to a mechanic (trusted). He told me to bring the bike over, because he wanted to hear the engine. Before I brought the bike over he just laughed at me and told me to stop being paranoid and that it was probably the sensor. When I later arrived with my bike he listened to it for a minute or two and gave it a few revvs and tried it around the shop.
When he came back he said that there is too much resistance in the engine and the revvs drop waay faster than they are supposed to. I am very confident the cams and chain are assembled correctly since it's not my first time swapping chains and adjusting valves.
Any ideas?
 

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How many miles on the engine btw ?

Why didn't your mechanic hook up an oil pressure gauge to check the actual oil PSI ? Would have been a simple check to confirm if it's suffering from low idle oil PSI...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The bike has 30xxx miles on the clock, but the bike has had a hard crash at some point. The inside of the fairings show that they have been painted. The tail was originally red, the side fairings blue and the headlight had huge cracks (only visible when off the bike). Who knows what other abuse it has seen. My guess is that it has been raced at some point.
He did not do anything to the bike because I did not have an appointment and the shop was full. He left the other bikes he was working on at the time to come check out mine real quick.
 

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A real long shot, but if the bike had been raced, the owner at the time might have had the flywheel machined back to save weight. That will cause the revs to drop much faster. (I did exactly this with my CB750 back in the 70s)

Still, that should not affect the oil pressure light unless the idle is way too low.

You can be sure the the cam chain installation was right because you say that the bike was like clockwork for a week.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you! Is there any way to find out if this is the case without pulling the engine apart?
I'm thinking that I will do some compression tests and oil pressure checks. If they show up bad I will probably just pull the motor out and give it to the mechanic to see if it is worth saving.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am kind of preparing for the worst case scenario. I have found a motor from a 03 54 with low milage (13k or something) . It has dyno papers which say that it has 126 WHP, am I wrong to think that this is low or is it normal to lose 28hp from the crank to the wheel?
 

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Hi Dealia. I think you might be jumping ahead of yourself.

Given that you've already said the bike was running fine, why not just give the bike to a reputable mechanic for diagnosis and repair rather than pulling the motor out to give him - which will be harder to fault diagnose when not connected to the bike - and also saving you the expense of the 03 motor which you might not even need?

I am not certain on BHP loss between crank and rear wheel, but given the amount of inflated and distorted figures bandied about for dyno tests, I wouldn't be concerned about a 28 bhp difference.:wink
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, to be honest I'm a bit short on funds. Just trying to do as much as possible myself. I know it will be harder to diagnose it this way, but I live in Norway and they charge 170/180 USD an hour (I am not exaggerating) and if it needs extensive work done it will most certainly cost more than a motor. Just trying to keep my wallet from thinning out. Just for comparison a shim type valve adjustment will cost you about 1000 dollars give or take. Which is just ridiculous, because they want less for the 03 motor.
I was thinking of pulling the motor out just to save a couple of hours removing everything.
 
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