Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My 2008 CBR1000RR Fireblade has now run above 12.000 km and I have just completed doing the the Oil Service.

Following this I have prepared the next article in a series of Do It Yourself (DIY) articles on the 2008 Fireblade.

Here is a link to the article titled Oil Service - 2008 CBR1000RR DIY. I hope it will be of help for other Fireblade owners, and that it will inspire others on this great forum to contribute with DIY articles also.

I will link back to this thread from the article, so you can participate with corrections, suggestions, questions and discussion about oil service.

Cheers ... Fred :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
146 Posts
Good article. Although I've changed mine several times already I read through it to see if I did mine any differently. It was pretty much the same, except I didn't put any tape over the ignition keyhole. I figured I wasn't going to forget and start it with everything apart.

I also had to pound a screwdriver through the filter on the first oil change to break it loose. They apparently do not put any oil on the filter O-ring at the Honda factory and I guess heat seals the rubber against the case.

On the refill I just went by what the service manual calls for on the capacity instead of filling 2 liters and checking, filling some more, checking, etc. The manual calls for 3.0L (3.2 U.S qt) after oil and filter change. That's what I put in and started it and let it idle for a minute to circulate the oil through the new filter. I turned it off and let it sit for a few minutes but the level was still low on the stick so I added more, up to around 3.75 U.S. qt. total.

When I checked it again anl hour later it was too high. I guess it takes a long time for the oil to completely drain to the bottom to get an accurate reading. I had to partially unscrew the drain plug and bleed out a bit of excess oil. All is well and now I know to not put in more than the manual calls for, even if it looks like it's not enough initially.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Hi RodiJeff,

thanks for giving such a detailed feed-back. It seems I managed to make it understandable. English is not my mother tounge so it takes some extra speculations to get it right. If you found spelling errors, wrong words or other language problems, please don't hesitate to point it out so it can be corrected.

The red tape on the ignition key hole is my own invention after I once nearly started up a car after a major engine overhaul without having added oil, i.e. few seconds from disaster!

It seems you have also noticed that it is a little tricky to do a correct oil level measurement on this engine. I do not have any precise technical explanation why it depends so much on engine temperature. I also have a 2007 CBF1000 and it does not behave so much in this way. Wonder if there is someone on this forum that can explain it?

I think you did good to drain out the excess oil. Last year I read somewhere here on this forum (I think) about problems with valve cover gasket being blown out by overpressure caused by excess oil blocking venting channels. If there are some here on the forum with such experience, please tell your story here!

RadiJeff - did you also read the supporting DIY article on how to remove/install the lower cowl (there is a link to it in step 2), and if so do you have any comments/corrections to this?

Cheers ... Fred :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
358 Posts
I don't have an explanation for the oil capacity versus measure level in the site glass but my 07 1000RR does the same thing. It can take a few hours for all the oil to drain down to get an accurate reading on the glass. I typically have to put a bit more than listed in the manual to get the level near the top line.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Segiano - then I would expect that Honda has specified a time based procedure for oil level measurement also for your model, so it can be done in minutes - and not hours. What does the 07 1000RR manual specify?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have now done the second oil service at 24.000 km on my blade.

At the 12.000 km service the nut on my original Honda oil filter wrench broke off, so I had to use the screwdriver trick to get the stuck oil filter loose.
Also here at 24.000 km the oil filter had grown stuck on the engine, so I had to use an air pressured tool to get it loose. Fortunately I had repaired my oil filter wrench by welding the nut properly, so the filter came loose in just a few seconds.

I have also added a few modifications and some extra pics to the Oil Service - 2008 CBR1000RR DIY article.

:) ... Fred
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
I replaced my oil about 400 miles ago and now i'm wondering if i replaced the sealing washer at all. For that fact i don't remember seeing a sealing washer when i removed the drain plug...i'm hoping it didn't fall into the bad oil resevoir and get lost and forgotten. Does it tend to stick to the drain plug when removed or does it fall right off??? Is there anyway to check this without loosing half my good oil???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
09GrandRR -
you probably did not notice but there must have been a sealing washer. It probably just was stuck either to the drain bolt or to the drain hole.
There is no risk of the washer falling through the drain hole, because the washer diameter is much larger than the hole.
If you mounted the drain bolt without a washer I doubt it would be able to seal tight, so if your engine is not dripping oil there is no problem.
:) ... Fred
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Yeah its all good, i wasn't worried about it falling into the drain plug:rotfl:, i was worried it fell into the oil pan i was draining the old oil into. Dropped the bike off for its 600mile service yesterday and the mechanic told me the same thing, there would be a puddle of oil under you bike if you forgot the sealing washer...Thanks for the input :plus1:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
I love it! You just saved my farings from the green monster. I started to change my oil last weekend and only had the owners manual. It just tells you to remove the rear screw from the mid cowl and pull it out. No way that was enough room so I tried to figure out the farings myself. Of course I was already getting torqued at this point becuase an oil change is not hard. Now that read your write up, I can give it another shot, correctly this time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi MaddMaxx79,
no - we certaintly don't want any green monsters near our bikes !:-D

And the lower cowl is really dead-easy to take off if you just know how to release the tabs.

One modification to the dismantling procedure have been proposed by AZBob on the rr-forum. He wrote:
" ... Unscrew the four screws, push the top of the front of the lower cowl back with your thumb toward the rear of the bike until it pops/releases, THEN remove the lower cowl from the mid cowls ..."

This should involve even less bending of plastics, and I think this makes good sense. But I have not yet tried doing it that way myself.

Cheers ... Fred :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Fred
The DIY article I found was perfect. The lower cowl is really easy. Fortunately, I love the bike above everything else in my driveway (obviously) and made sure I didn't Hulk rage like usual. (my jeep has some interesting marks on it...) The oil change was a breeze, once I got past the fused on filter. Now I'm only worried that the correct amount of oil is in there. It takes forever for it to settle to get a good reading.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Hello, thanks for the link to the article, I have been looking for a definitive answer to the oil measuring issue and the best I have found is yours. That said, I have a question: How do you know the level should be in the middle line? I mean, What's the upper line for?

In my mind (purely speculation I should add) the level should be on the top? and maybe the middle line is when you have to add because well, its middle between max and min acceptable levels?

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi bod..zen - I'm happy you approve of my article :)

I recommend aiming for the 'middle' line because this minimizes the risk of overfilling, and I'm assuming that you make frequent inpection of oil level to minimize risk of getting a too low level.

If you want to go for the upper line, then just make sure not to exceed it.

Cheers .... Fred
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
hi there thanks to you for writing it. Yes that's what I'm not sure about... all in all your suggestion seems to be better, because, at worst, our bikes are at middle level, not overfilled, not under filled, so... seems safer...

Still, I would like to know FOR SURE, which is the appropriate level.


Hi bod..zen - I'm happy you approve of my article :)

I recommend aiming for the 'middle' line because this minimizes the risk of overfilling, and I'm assuming that you make frequent inpection of oil level to minimize risk of getting a too low level.

If you want to go for the upper line, then just make sure not to exceed it.

Cheers .... Fred
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
32,104 Posts
Hello, thanks for the link to the article, I have been looking for a definitive answer to the oil measuring issue and the best I have found is yours. That said, I have a question: How do you know the level should be in the middle line? I mean, What's the upper line for?

In my mind (purely speculation I should add) the level should be on the top? and maybe the middle line is when you have to add because well, its middle between max and min acceptable levels?

Thanks!

The manuals specify filling it to the upper line.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
32,104 Posts
Indeed, but the question arises when one sees the dip stick. The one on my car states with words the max level and there is no ambiguity about it. If you see the picture provided in the link, you will see that the stick has three marks... the line is in the middle...


The manual states "Insert the dipstick without screwing it in, remove it and check the oil level. If the oil level is below or near the lower level line on the dipstick, remove the oil filler cap and add the recommended engine oil to the upper level line..." - how is that ambiguous?

What picture? The diagram in the manual only shows two lines on the dipstick.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top