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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, so I have this issue on my bike of stators burning out. It is a 2001 929RR. Stock electronics other than a PCIII and integrated tail light. The bike has about 21K miles.

Back in July, I had the stator (OEM) burn up on me, so I replaced it with another. That one worked until about September, at which point I warrantied it, and it gave me no troubles until 3 weeks ago, so I get about 4 months on the stator. Then, lo and behold, the next one burned up again. I have a stock R/R on there, but I have tested it and not seen anything that fails the basic tests.

I was wondering if it made sense to put inline fuses between stator and R/R to prevent too much current from flowing and burning the thing out... and if so what size of fuse should I use? 50A? I would assume the current on a stator is pretty high...

I have a new R/R coming from Electrosport Industries either way, but I really don't see how that could be causing the problem over a period of 4 months.
 

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the RR is made to dissipate any extra voltage it takes in from the stator via grounding and heat. The stator can pump out approx 80v's and the RR brings it down to the 14v that the components need.

if anything i'd try to make a contraption of sorts that allows you to cool the RR down, thus most likely extending it's life. maybe a little computer fan zip tied to the fins of the RR or a vent to the RR.
 

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Hey guys, so I have this issue on my bike of stators burning out. It is a 2001 929RR. Stock electronics other than a PCIII and integrated tail light. The bike has about 21K miles.

Back in July, I had the stator (OEM) burn up on me, so I replaced it with another. That one worked until about September, at which point I warrantied it, and it gave me no troubles until 3 weeks ago, so I get about 4 months on the stator. Then, lo and behold, the next one burned up again. I have a stock R/R on there, but I have tested it and not seen anything that fails the basic tests.

I was wondering if it made sense to put inline fuses between stator and R/R to prevent too much current from flowing and burning the thing out... and if so what size of fuse should I use? 50A? I would assume the current on a stator is pretty high...

I have a new R/R coming from Electrosport Industries either way, but I really don't see how that could be causing the problem over a period of 4 months.

also, heat is the main enemy of stators ( your mc oil is doing the cooling ), so you may want to look into if your bike is running a little on the warm side. or if the oil isn't doing a good job of cooling. Maybe time for synth oil?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
People have mentioned that (hey a fellow Canuck! I lived in Guelph not too long ago :)) regarding the oil, but my 5W40 Rotella T full synth should do the job, correct?

What if my oil levels are low, could that cause the top of the stator to be exposed?
 

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The stator has oil but it is not to the extent that you are thinking. Aftermarket R&R's have better cooling capability; usually by having a larger heat sink.
 

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The stator isn't cooled by the oil.
The oil is just in there to lubricate the starter clutch.
 

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People have mentioned that (hey a fellow Canuck! I lived in Guelph not too long ago :)) regarding the oil, but my 5W40 Rotella T full synth should do the job, correct?

What if my oil levels are low, could that cause the top of the stator to be exposed?
and the same bike :thumb:
 

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The stator isn't cooled by the oil.
The oil is just in there to lubricate the starter clutch.
it cools more than you think. There's no other reason why oil should even be in that location. Oil is the medium that allows the stator to dissapate the heat.
 

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The stator has oil but it is not to the extent that you are thinking. Aftermarket R&R's have better cooling capability; usually by having a larger heat sink.
my aftermarket RR had a little larger heatsink but there still was no air circulation so i figure any air movement will help greatly.
 

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it cools more than you think. There's no other reason why oil should even be in that location. Oil is the medium that allows the stator to dissapate the heat.
As I said earlier, the oil is to lubricate the starter clutch which is inside the rotor. The oil does not circulate through the stator at all. It comes in from the main bearing and flows back into the sump.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well so on Friday I got my stator in the mail, I installed it, replaced the gasket etc, made sure the oil level was topped off and its running like a dream. Voltages across the battery terminals are no higher than 14.45v when charging, and no lower than about 13.2v when running it seems.

I guess here is the golden question, will a malfunctioning R/R cause the windings on a stator to burn through (on 3 different stators!)?

bladeracer you are the first to mention that oil does nothing to cool the stator :S the guys at the local shop mentioned the same thing (oil weight, type of oil etc). i guess i cannot be too quick to jump to conclusions...

well on Monday or Tuesday when the new R/R comes (Electrosport Industries told me the part was updated, beefier design that is much more reliable), I will install it regardless and see how everything goes. For now it seems to be running OK, but I won't go on any long rides until I have the new R/R in there for peace of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
well i guess the stator is ground to the casing since the bolts that holds it in place screw directly into the stator cover.
I think he means are your coils on the stator touching the stator housing? If you tighten it down and it pinches the coil and breaks the insulation, you will have a short in the circuit and burn out the stator.

Update for me: Bike is still running perfectly. Have the aftermarket R/R but haven't installed it yet. I wish I knew what caused the problem before :idunno:
 

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ok oil does dissipate heat but there are certain factor for do so like vicosity, pour point and flash point and we are talking in the case that the stator is submerged in oil and this being constantly circulated which is not the case on motorcycles. whomever replaced the stator by them selves knows that there is minimal oil coming from the stator cover when you pry it open. so stator's heat being dissipate by engine oil is out of the equation. so a couple days ago i burned my stator (again) due to a short cut. read the story: i installed a mod called "electronic trunk release" which imply a car actuator door lock, so when installing the actuator i accidentally left a wire from the actuator expose which later became in contact with the ground of the bike which immediately caused a shortcut leading to a burn stator. you may be asking, how do u know so fast the stator was burn? cuz i installed a device that reads if the battery is being charged or not. so it all comes (to me) that there are two factor fro a burn stator: bad airflow to the R/R and a shortcut anywhere on the bike.
 

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How is that new stator treating you vostok4?
Have just cooked my second one, five weeks in the bike and it's dead :(
Maybe the stator isn't the problem then?
 
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