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Discussion Starter #1
I've a 1997 Fireblade 900rrv - I decided to give the bike a service and saw that the front and rear pads could do with replacing. I ended up taking front and rear wheels off to give them a good overhaul, etc. With the brakes, the pad retaining pin plug is stuck on all calipers. It is the small flathead screw/bolt you have to remove before you get to the pin itself. Any ideas on how to remove the plug, please? I'm stripping the head if I continue in the same way. I've trawled the www but thought I'd ask here!:crying::idunno: I've tried a wd40 type lube but isn't helping!
 

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I've a 1997 Fireblade 900rrv - I decided to give the bike a service and saw that the front and rear pads could do with replacing. I ended up taking front and rear wheels off to give them a good overhaul, etc. With the brakes, the pad retaining pin plug is stuck on all calipers. It is the small flathead screw/bolt you have to remove before you get to the pin itself. Any ideas on how to remove the plug, please? I'm stripping the head if I continue in the same way. I've trawled the www but thought I'd ask here!:crying::idunno: I've tried a wd40 type lube but isn't helping!
Have you tried an impact driver?

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Haven't tried an impact driver...concern with that is the impact on the caliper. I was not intending on disconnecting the calipers from the brake lines and bleed the brake lines but I'm guessing that'll be the best option to get these darn screws out!! Cheers.:)
 

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Haven't tried an impact driver...concern with that is the impact on the caliper. I was not intending on disconnecting the calipers from the brake lines and bleed the brake lines but I'm guessing that'll be the best option to get these darn screws out!! Cheers.:)

You don't need to remove the caliper to hit it with the impact driver.
If that doesn't work try heating the caliper to expand the aluminium around the steel and break the bond. You will need to replace the fluid after heating it but you should replace the fluid every year anyway.
If that doesn't work I think you'll have to drill it out.
 

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Use the biggest screwdriver in your toolbox, and put 90% effort to pushing "in" and 10% effort to twisting "round". Tap it with a hammer sometimes helps, but these caps are notorious for locking and for rounding out.

And don't put the damaged ones back or I will lay a curse on you!
 

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Use the biggest screwdriver in your toolbox, and put 90% effort to pushing "in" and 10% effort to twisting "round". Tap it with a hammer sometimes helps, but these caps are notorious for locking and for rounding out.

And don't put the damaged ones back or I will lay a curse on you!

Giving them a good coating of grease during assembly is sure to help prevent them binding.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Bonjour! Well, with some precision heating applied with a pencil blowtorch, a couple of sharp whacks with hammer and flathead screwdriver, the biotches came off!! Pins came out with no hassle at all. Thank you all very much for the tips and guides. Amorti - new pin plugs I have and will be fitted ;)
Now to sort out the seized pistons! ;p
 

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Good lad!

And to echo BR, copperslip is your friend, if you don't have that grey grease. WTF is it called now?

Seized pistons are great fun, but here's a better idea - you can fit the later gold calipers off a 929-954 or 600RR3-4. By the time you've paid for one or two pistons and a set of seals, you're already into the cost of replacement calipers.

These have bigger pistons and bigger pads for more friction area, fit 1:1 on your forks and best of all the gold anodising of the body is done after machining so the grooves don't rot. No, even better than that they have teflon coated aluminum pistons, so barring cack handed use of pliers, they'll never ever corrode.

You will require a 5/8" master cylinder off a 98-99 blade, or the master cylinder from the bike you're getting the brakes off. Also these will be compatible with modern radial master cylinders too.

 
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