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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a question for anyone that may have done a camshaft replacement on a 929 or 954. I was lucky enough to get my hands on a set of cams for my 929 and Im about ready to remove the old cams.

My question is where to set the timing. According to the service manual for the 929 it says you should turn the crankshaft till the index marks line up. This can happen a couple different places. To be sure it says to line up the marks when cylinder 1 is at TDC on the compression stroke. Cool easy enough. Done.

I then looked ahead at the installation portion of the manual and found that the marks on the camshaft sprockets were opposite of what they should be. To get the marks where the manual says, you must line up the marks on the crankshaft when cylinder 1 is at TDC on the exhaust stroke.

So we have two different possibilities and the manual contradicts itself. Has anyone else ran into this problem? What did you use for crank alignment?

Also what did you do about the chain tensioner? The book shows a tool that needs to be made to release the pressure. Is there any way around this?

Any help or info would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I have a question for anyone that may have done a camshaft replacement on a 929 or 954. I was lucky enough to get my hands on a set of cams for my 929 and Im about ready to remove the old cams.

My question is where to set the timing. According to the service manual for the 929 it says you should turn the crankshaft till the index marks line up. This can happen a couple different places. To be sure it says to line up the marks when cylinder 1 is at TDC on the compression stroke. Cool easy enough. Done.

I then looked ahead at the installation portion of the manual and found that the marks on the camshaft sprockets were opposite of what they should be. To get the marks where the manual says, you must line up the marks on the crankshaft when cylinder 1 is at TDC on the exhaust stroke.

So we have two different possibilities and the manual contradicts itself. Has anyone else ran into this problem? What did you use for crank alignment?

Also what did you do about the chain tensioner? The book shows a tool that needs to be made to release the pressure. Is there any way around this?

Any help or info would be greatly appreciated.
I'm curious why you're replacing them?
Are yours worn significantly?
Without the cams installed, there is no compression or exhaust stroke - it's the cams that make them different. Until the cams are in place it's just a matter of putting #1 at TDC.
You can use a small flat-bladed screwdriver for the tensioner.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Blade,
I guess i never thought of it like that. I picked up a set of Erion racing cams for the bike. Once the old cams are out its just a matter of getting the new cams aligned properly for timing.
 

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Blade,
I guess i never thought of it like that. I picked up a set of Erion racing cams for the bike. Once the old cams are out its just a matter of getting the new cams aligned properly for timing.
If they're aftermarket cams you will need to get the specs from Erion to set them up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Blade,
These use the same oem sprockets for oem timing. Nothing different from an oem cam setup.

Edit;
Just got the cam tensioner bolt off. Now i need to get the tension released from the chain somehow. Should have dropped the engine in the first place. Frame is in the way of everything.
 

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Blade,
These use the same oem sprockets for oem timing. Nothing different from an oem cam setup.
The lobes are a different shape to the OEM lobes and you intend to degree the cams don't you? That's why you have adjustable sprockets?
If not, then simply mount the sprockets on the cams and install them according to the manual. Unless you have taken a lot of metal off the head I wouldn't worry about altering the timing to suit.
If you want to degree them you will need to either find out the grind specs of the cams or set them up yourself through trial and error on a dyno.
 

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Just got the cam tensioner bolt off. Now i need to get the tension released from the chain somehow. Should have dropped the engine in the first place. Frame is in the way of everything.
If you have removed the tensioner then there is no tension in the chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was originally confused with how to set the timing because the manual contradicted itself. I have since figured that much out. Plan is to use factory sprockets and timing.

Current problem is trying to relieve pressure on the chain. Cant get anything into the tensioner hole with the frame in the way.
 

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I was originally confused with how to set the timing because the manual contradicted itself. I have since figured that much out. Plan is to use factory sprockets and timing.

Current problem is trying to relieve pressure on the chain. Cant get anything into the tensioner hole with the frame in the way.
My mistake. We have a parallel thread happening about adjustable cam timing.
You should be able to remove the tensioner bolts progressively if you don't want to make a screwdriver to fit it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I may have to try and make something because i cant get to one of the tensioner bolts to get it loosened on both sides.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I ended up just making a little something out of a piece of steel i had laying around. It was definitely the way to go.

Just out of curiousity i decided to call the stealership and ask how much they wanted for the Honda tool. Of course they didnt have it but would be happy to order it for me for only $75. :eek:

Couldnt believe it. My $.02 part was equivalent to the dealers $75 part.

Thanks Blade for your help. Everything went smooth after the tensioner was out of the way. She even started right up today. Cant wait to ride. :D
 

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Well I ended up just making a little something out of a piece of steel i had laying around. It was definitely the way to go.

Just out of curiousity i decided to call the stealership and ask how much they wanted for the Honda tool. Of course they didnt have it but would be happy to order it for me for only $75. :eek:

Couldnt believe it. My $.02 part was equivalent to the dealers $75 part.

Thanks Blade for your help. Everything went smooth after the tensioner was out of the way. She even started right up today. Cant wait to ride. :D
Excellent result :)
 
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