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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, new guy here
I have a 2003 954rr motor with most of the harness, ecu, etc…I’m prepping it to install in a mini buggy that I’m waiting for the frame to be built. I read through threads and looked through the wiring diagram till my eyes couldn’t handle it anymore, and then some.

I think I have a handle on bypassing most of the switches and sensors that I don’t need, but I want to make sure:
Ignition – zener diode and resistor on the pink wire
Kick stand – connect the two wires together; Green and Green-White
Bank Angle Sensor – jump the Black wire with the Red-Orange wire, leave the White-Black open. I actually don’t have the front part of the harness, so I will have to jump the wires before the connector, which I’ve determined through the diagram to be a Green wire and Red-Orange wire.
Clutch Switch– jump the wires together – again, no front harness, but those go to two connectors that go to the left control…Green-Red from one, Green-White from the other…will having the clutch switch “ON” at all times rob me from any power, or put in some sort of “limp” mode? Is the clutch switch only just for starting? I’m thinking of just having a manual switch or wire it in to the start button…Any ideas?
ECGV Servo Motor – since I don’t have a gauge cluster, I won’t have any warning lights. Do I just unplug the motor and not use it? Will this put me in some sort of “limp” mode?
O2 Sensor – I will be making a custom exhaust, basically using only flange and half of the headers. Will I have to use the O2 sensor? Again, will not connecting this put me in “limp mode”?

Am I missing anything else? Will taking care of the sensors and switches above, and hooking up a battery get me started (assuming everything else is good)? I’ve built a motor stand, and will attempt at powering up and starting after changing fluids, etc…just attempt at starting, not running, as I have no radiator.
Any ideas, insight would be most appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Ok, new guy here
I have a 2003 954rr motor with most of the harness, ecu, etc…I’m prepping it to install in a mini buggy that I’m waiting for the frame to be built. I read through threads and looked through the wiring diagram till my eyes couldn’t handle it anymore, and then some.

I think I have a handle on bypassing most of the switches and sensors that I don’t need, but I want to make sure:
Ignition – zener diode and resistor on the pink wire
Kick stand – connect the two wires together; Green and Green-White
Bank Angle Sensor – jump the Black wire with the Red-Orange wire, leave the White-Black open. I actually don’t have the front part of the harness, so I will have to jump the wires before the connector, which I’ve determined through the diagram to be a Green wire and Red-Orange wire.
Clutch Switch– jump the wires together – again, no front harness, but those go to two connectors that go to the left control…Green-Red from one, Green-White from the other…will having the clutch switch “ON” at all times rob me from any power, or put in some sort of “limp” mode? Is the clutch switch only just for starting? I’m thinking of just having a manual switch or wire it in to the start button…Any ideas?
ECGV Servo Motor – since I don’t have a gauge cluster, I won’t have any warning lights. Do I just unplug the motor and not use it? Will this put me in some sort of “limp” mode?
O2 Sensor – I will be making a custom exhaust, basically using only flange and half of the headers. Will I have to use the O2 sensor? Again, will not connecting this put me in “limp mode”?

Am I missing anything else? Will taking care of the sensors and switches above, and hooking up a battery get me started (assuming everything else is good)? I’ve built a motor stand, and will attempt at powering up and starting after changing fluids, etc…just attempt at starting, not running, as I have no radiator.
Any ideas, insight would be most appreciated. Thanks.

Is it a US bike?
There is no limp mode on the 929/954. Disconnecting the HTEV servo motor has no effect on the engine at all.
If the bike has an O2 sensor (is it a Cali model?) then you either need it connected or you need to eliminate it with a device from Dynojet. It won't go to limp mode but it will mess up the fueling if it's not getting accurate O2 data.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have no idea about us and Cali models but I can only assume so as I bought the motor in California. I also have been following the us diagram and have traced and labeled every plug, and found/accounted for everything on the diagram except the front harness.
Looks like I'm missing a few things: regulator/rectifier, and the MAS (I don't have the airbox). Of course I need the R/R but will I NEED the MAS as well?

Thanks for the o2 sensor info...just trying to get it to start. Does it have to be a certain distance from the head? I'll take it in to account when building the exhaust. What's the device from dynojet? Anyway to bypass it with resistors?

On the clutch switch, what is it for? Just for starting? With the computer care that the clutch lever is always in/not in?

Again, thank you for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Also, I have what look like two fuel lines from the fuel rail. Do I assume one is for fuel from the pump, and the other a return?
 

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I have no idea about us and Cali models but I can only assume so as I bought the motor in California. I also have been following the us diagram and have traced and labeled every plug, and found/accounted for everything on the diagram except the front harness.
Looks like I'm missing a few things: regulator/rectifier, and the MAS (I don't have the airbox). Of course I need the R/R but will I NEED the MAS as well?

Thanks for the o2 sensor info...just trying to get it to start. Does it have to be a certain distance from the head? I'll take it in to account when building the exhaust. What's the device from dynojet? Anyway to bypass it with resistors?

On the clutch switch, what is it for? Just for starting? With the computer care that the clutch lever is always in/not in?

Again, thank you for the help.

Only the Cali-version has the O2 sensor.
You will need all the sensors to get it fueling properly but I think it'll run without the MAS.
The O2 sensor needs to be in the top half of the pipe to avoid any condensation getting to it - water will kill the sensor.
The sensor eliminator is tricking the ECU via resistors. If you wanted to try to make something yourself I have no idea what would be involved.
You could simply get a non-Cali US ECU but I can't say for sure if it'll connect to a Cali harness.
The clutch and sidestand switches are just safety devices.
 

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Also, I have what look like two fuel lines from the fuel rail. Do I assume one is for fuel from the pump, and the other a return?

That is correct.
Check the fuel pressure regulator once you have fuel pressure as they are known failure items.
What are you using for a fuel pump?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's my next question...I guess I need a pump that supplies ~45 psi?
I may get some automotive pump and a regulator to bring it down to whatever the stock pump delivered.
 

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That's my next question...I guess I need a pump that supplies ~45 psi?
I may get some automotive pump and a regulator to bring it down to whatever the stock pump delivered.

You need 50psi at idle.
I've never been able to find a car pump that makes enough pressure for the bikes. It may still work though as I've never tried one.
Best bet would be to put a 1000RR pump in the base of whatever you're using for the fuel tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've been given some options like Bosch or aeromotive pumps and regulators. Kind of on the $$$ side so I'm still looking for options. I'm going to be using a fuel cell with a plastic bladder surrounded with a metal can. How does the stock or 1000rr pump mount?
 

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I've been given some options like Bosch or aeromotive pumps and regulators. Kind of on the $$$ side so I'm still looking for options. I'm going to be using a fuel cell with a plastic bladder surrounded with a metal can. How does the stock or 1000rr pump mount?

Do those pumps put out 50psi though?
The pumps mount into the base of the tank.
 

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yeah...but $$$...I need to do more research though...
JEGS Performance Products 159001 JEGS Inline Fuel Pumps

Aeromotive 13129 Aeromotive Compact EFI Fuel Pressure Regulator

so, facing the fuel rail from the back (headers away), the left fuel hose is in, the one on the right is for return?


Good find, but those are not expensive.
$130 for a high-pressure fuel pump is great value.
The right side is the fuel in, the left side is the fuel pressure regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Good find, but those are not expensive.
$130 for a high-pressure fuel pump is great value.
The right side is the fuel in, the left side is the fuel pressure regulator.
i guess the $ is all relative, lol...i was expecting around $50 if that...I didn't know EFI fuel pumps can get into the $6-$7 hundreds...so i guess i shouldn't complain about $130 ...

thanks on the which side was in/out...so, just to get this all straight. The stock FPR takes ~50 psi from the stock fuel pump which is located inside the tank. to mimick the stock tank/pump, using a fuel cell, and inline fuel pump to draw the fuel out of the cell, then to an inline fuel pressure regulator (with a gauge) to reg it down to ~50 psi, to the stock FPR, correct?

you mention 50 psi at idle...does it increase with RPM?
 

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i guess the $ is all relative, lol...i was expecting around $50 if that...I didn't know EFI fuel pumps can get into the $6-$7 hundreds...so i guess i shouldn't complain about $130 ...

thanks on the which side was in/out...so, just to get this all straight. The stock FPR takes ~50 psi from the stock fuel pump which is located inside the tank. to mimick the stock tank/pump, using a fuel cell, and inline fuel pump to draw the fuel out of the cell, then to an inline fuel pressure regulator (with a gauge) to reg it down to ~50 psi, to the stock FPR, correct?

you mention 50 psi at idle...does it increase with RPM?

I don't know actually but I would expect the pressure to vary to suit the needs of the engine. The fuel pressure regulator is vacuum-operated. The pump is submersed in the fuel for cooling and noise supression.
I would set the pressure at 50psi to begin with and if you have fuel starvation problems then look at increasing it. As I said earlier, it may work just fine with a high-pressure car pump as well - I've never tried it myself. Frankly, it just seems so much easier to use the OEM pump that was designed for the job.
 

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i guess the $ is all relative, lol...i was expecting around $50 if that...I didn't know EFI fuel pumps can get into the $6-$7 hundreds...so i guess i shouldn't complain about $130 ...

thanks on the which side was in/out...so, just to get this all straight. The stock FPR takes ~50 psi from the stock fuel pump which is located inside the tank. to mimick the stock tank/pump, using a fuel cell, and inline fuel pump to draw the fuel out of the cell, then to an inline fuel pressure regulator (with a gauge) to reg it down to ~50 psi, to the stock FPR, correct?

you mention 50 psi at idle...does it increase with RPM?
$130 isn't bad for a performance pump. I'm assuming the 954 manual specifies idle because that's where it is set at. The applications I work on are turbocharged, use an electric fuel pump and adjustable fuel pressure regulator. We set our F.P. at idle also. The fuel pressure should remain stable as volumn requirements vary. Our fuel pressure remains at 58.5 psi +-2 psi at idle, all the way up to max rpm under load. Sounds like a fun buggy, good luck.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
$130 isn't bad for a performance pump. I'm assuming the 954 manual specifies idle because that's where it is set at. The applications I work on are turbocharged, use an electric fuel pump and adjustable fuel pressure regulator. We set our F.P. at idle also. The fuel pressure should remain stable as volumn requirements vary. Our fuel pressure remains at 58.5 psi +-2 psi at idle, all the way up to max rpm under load. Sounds like a fun buggy, good luck.
this is great news as it looks like an inline fuel pump with a regulator just may be the ticket...
there are other's using street bike motors on buggys but the ones i've seen are all GSXRs, so i was worried about fuel delivery.

Any thoughts on those FPR on ebay for the import tuners? like $30 for a FPR with a gauge and your choice of fance annodized color?
 

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this is great news as it looks like an inline fuel pump with a regulator just may be the ticket...
there are other's using street bike motors on buggys but the ones i've seen are all GSXRs, so i was worried about fuel delivery.

Any thoughts on those FPR on ebay for the import tuners? like $30 for a FPR with a gauge and your choice of fance annodized color?
Not really familiar with the import tuner cars, $30 seams pretty cheap, I'd be worried that you might get what you pay for. You might check out some of their websites for feedback. It would be frustrating to haul it to the dunes or wherever and have to watch everyone else have fun because a $30 F.P.R. failed. Always a chance of breaking something, but quality parts can minimize some of those breakdowns. If the GSXR powered buggys are late model F.I. engines the concept is the same, even if the pressures are slightly different. Where in the high desert are you by the way?
 

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It would be frustrating to haul it to the dunes or wherever and have to watch everyone else have fun because a $30 F.P.R. failed...Where in the high desert are you by the way?
lol...not that i've ever done that before...lol...

i'm actually from down the hill in orange county, but the motor is at my uncle's in apple valley...
 

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lol...not that i've ever done that before...lol...

i'm actually from down the hill in orange county, but the motor is at my uncle's in apple valley...
Haven't we all... I'm in West Palmdale / Quartz Hill, but I used to do a lot of dirt riding in Hesperia / Apple Valley.
 
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