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Discussion Starter #1
Where is a good website to buy a Power Commander? I have just got a full hindle exhaust system for 200 w/ installation. But like my car, I'm pretty sure I can't ride it like this for long (probably lean/rich). Where should I get a PC for my bike (06 YZF R6), and what kind of shop do I have to find to tune it properly and what will that cost on average?!

Thanks in advance for all the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
bump
 

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Do not bump it within a minute please... No point in that.


As for the PC.. I wouldnt know where to get one online. I got lucky and know the right people around the dealerships.

As for tuning, go to the PC website. They have a tab "Tuning Centers", click on it and search your location. Voila!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Is the bike fine to ride without the tune? Also I noticed small dents in the headers. I'll post a pic. Does that effect anything?
 

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Where is a good website to buy a Power Commander? !
I would just google it. Or you might get a good deal on one from a good dyno shop. Especially if you have them use their DynoJet to customize your fuel map.

I have just got a full hindle exhaust system for 200 w/ installation. But like my car, I'm pretty sure I can't ride it like this for long (probably lean/rich).
That's pretty much right. I ran my bike for about 500 miles one weekend without my PC. (Its a RC51 with yosh slip-ons, thats all) Had to finish the trip. It ran a little lean, but no heating issues, which is one thing I look for if suspecting lean. Damage, or lack of, depends on how lean it runs and for how long. It doesn't take long for damage.
Your full system may run a lot leaner than my slip-ons. Different bike's so I'm kinda reaching accross the specifics here. But I think some of the basics are the same.

Where should I get a PC for my bike (06 YZF R6), and what kind of shop do I have to find to tune it properly and what will that cost on average?!
Try to get a trusted recomendation for a dyno shop. From someone you know. Make sure they have a DynoJet dyno. Costs vary, but maybe about $300 or so. BUT, Then you got a custom map just for your bike, and it will be a pretty big difference in smoothness and more precise fuel mapping. Until you got the money for that, PowerCommander offers some downloadable maps, maybe for your specific set-up. Check their website.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
He said this dent in the pipes wont effect performance at all. Opinions?!
 

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He said this dent in the pipes wont effect performance at all. Opinions?!
Don't swet those dents. The pipe really has to be smashed bad for it to be a problem. In your pic, I see no reason to be concerned. Unless you have large sums of money laying around just waiting to be spent; send it my way, before you go out and get a new pipe for ding like that. Thats of course your just hurten to waste your money for a dent.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
he said it didn't effect performance at all on his dyno. i just wanted to make sure you all agreed, and he wasn't lying. that's how i got the full system for 200 w/ installation because it was "mint" lol. I don't have a lot of money, I'm a college student lol. Thanks for all the continuous help everyone. Just trying to find a good site for a PC3 for my bike. they're all pretty much 300.
 

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If your thinking about the cost of a PC III, I reccommend Ebay. Sometimes you will find one that is around the $290.00 range. I say that $300.00 to $400.00 is about right and average. Not good for my wallet either, even at $290.00. Its kind of a crap shoot but, you can look for a while and maybe you get a sale like I did. Total cost for me with shipping was just under $345.00=PC III USB, brand new in package unopenned. Once you have one of these, you can download programs already taylored to your set up. However, the real performance gain, or true gain, comes from an actual Dyno tune. Preferably from a shop that uses a Dyno Jet dynomometer. Thats a price range of $200.00 to $400.00 smackers, depending on how prowd the shop is of their equipment, so to speak. If, (usually, someone incharge of running said dyno, has all their ducks in a row, and knows how to get everything set right.), the guy knows what he is doing you"ll get a finely tuned running motorcycle. The Dyno Jet dyno is always updated and its just a matter of knowing how to operate the thing.
Your presently just interested in getting a PC III, so one thing at a time.
If you want more info, let me know. I have been through this. I am not the only one on this Org that has experience. I did mine in steps one piece at a time too.
 

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If your thinking about the cost of a PC III, I reccommend Ebay. Sometimes you will find one that is around the $290.00 range. I say that $300.00 to $400.00 is about right and average. Not good for my wallet either, even at $290.00. Its kind of a crap shoot but, you can look for a while and maybe you get a sale like I did. Total cost for me with shipping was just under $345.00=PC III USB, brand new in package unopenned. Once you have one of these, you can download programs already taylored to your set up. However, the real performance gain, or true gain, comes from an actual Dyno tune. Preferably from a shop that uses a Dyno Jet dynomometer. Thats a price range of $200.00 to $400.00 smackers, depending on how prowd the shop is of their equipment, so to speak. If, (usually, someone incharge of running said dyno, has all their ducks in a row, and knows how to get everything set right.), the guy knows what he is doing you"ll get a finely tuned running motorcycle. The Dyno Jet dyno is always updated and its just a matter of knowing how to operate the thing.
Your presently just interested in getting a PC III, so one thing at a time.
If you want more info, let me know. I have been through this. I am not the only one on this Org that has experience. I did mine in steps one piece at a time too.
As did I. I ran my bike in pure stock form for the first 500 miles. then started adding things, mostly used, one at a time, as $ were available. I even bought my PC used for $180 off craigslist in LA. It was included with some other parts of a fresh wrecked bike. Bit of a gamble, but it's working like it supposed to. Haven't made it to a Dyno shop in my area yet, need more $$$.

Very good post sml :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yeah i'm looking online right now for the PCIII. It looks like it'll be about 300 for the PC and 300 for the tune locally. I don't think the downloadable tunes wiill work because my bike has weird things done to the actual engine itself. The guy who owned it before me is in expert level CCS racing and he spent a good chunk rebuilding the engine to be an AMA Supersport engine or something. He tried explaining it to me but it all went over my head lol.
 

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yeah i'm looking online right now for the PCIII. It looks like it'll be about 300 for the PC and 300 for the tune locally. I don't think the downloadable tunes wiill work because my bike has weird things done to the actual engine itself. The guy who owned it before me is in expert level CCS racing and he spent a good chunk rebuilding the engine to be an AMA Supersport engine or something. He tried explaining it to me but it all went over my head lol.
If it's still possible, You should ask him to write down what all he did. Or email to you, or something. I'm thinking someday you will understand, and you'll be glad to know what has been done to your engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Oh, I feel like an idiot now lol. I guess what he had worked on was the cam timing, valve job, and "decked head." but i don't think any of that will effect a dyno tune, nor is it relevant to the tuner. lol :p I got my PCIII though yesterday :)
 

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This will happen on the dyno tune run. Your partialy right that it wont actually matter to the tuner. However, because there is different cam timing, the usual maps found on the Power Commander site, likely will not be close enough for optimum performance. This translates to, You will need a dyno tune. The dyno operates with the bike, sensing the engine in present state of tune. That becomes the base from witch all tunning adjustments are made during the "tune", run, (Thats what I call it. Who ever tunes your bike may have a different term.). Your bike will be given a run that requires it to go through all gears, lugged by the dyno brake, and forced to climb through RPM's to a peak point. This sets injector, ignition timming, and TPS settings. It will take some time, and will run nice when its all done. You do not get a Doc Jekyle/Mr Hied, nor do you get some sort of Mach 5 rocket with instant power every where you put the throttle. Power gains are not signifcant enough to feel until you can actually have enough road, or space in front of you to give it a good thrashing. Unless you have ridden the bike enough to know it intimately, your likely not to feel it, until you get a good chance to ride it like you stoll it. In short, and to be more direct; Don't get it off the dyno after a tune and expect a big difference. You should expect a very manageble and evenly, smooth, powerfull, and glitchless ride.
When I got mine done with all the new parts on it; I didn't know the difference. UNTIL, I rode the thing as hard as I could stand. Thats when my eye's hurt. I noticed the difference only because I had been ridding my bike enough to know the before, to tell the after. My eye's hurt meanning, it did accelerate much harder, and throttle reaction was clean. Power came on more electric motor like. Only this electric motor has ton's of torque, and my hands were shaking when I stopped.
Thats what I got with a PC III USB, Ignition module, K&N filter, IRC, and Taylor Made slipon, with a good dyno tune. Good luck to you. I hope you get what your looking for.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
thank you sidmarklong, that clears a lot of things up. yeah, my guy said the main thing that makes a difference to a tuner would be the cam timing, but he thinks he could find an online tune that will still be good until i get it dyno tuned. he thinks that i shouldn't have it dyno tuned until i get an ignition module; seeing as you have one, what is your opinion on it? and also what are the effects on your mpg with the ignition module installed (i use this bike kinda as a daily driver too). I'm assuming he wants me to run a downloadable tune until I get the FI Module installed and then meet him at the track in Daytona for bike week and have his guy dyno tune it all at once (possibly for free, most likely for like $100). Think it's possible to find an online tune that will have the bike running good until mid to late october?
 

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Try to remember that each part can be tuned in from the computer with online assistance from a Power commander technician. If you go online and have the tech assist you after you have installed a new part, ie, an ignition module after a PC III that has been tuned on a dyno. This will work. Its a crap shoot to expect a downloadable map to be right with your particular setup. You will likely find one that will work with your set up, but not exactly right. This is not say, that you should not do it. I recommend getting the closest map you can. It is not recommended to experiment with maps. Unless you understand the steps of which it takes to install and remove maps from your PC III. These things are like old 286 mother boards. You can lock it up with to many changes at one time. Then you'll need a reprogramer unit. I got one of those too. Remember this; there are many maps to choose, and when you install the program onto your laptop there will be updates to get also. You will want to save your selected map. You will want to save your perfectly dyno tuned map also, once you have one. By the way, all the maps are orientated to a particular pipe/PC/filter, ect combination. Pick one that matches your combination. that will be the best you can do. Your bike should be safe to run.
Yes, I had the ignition module and the PC III, along with the pipe and K&N filter for the dyno tune. I added the IRC later, then had the power commander tech, online with my laptop connected to the PC III. The tech made all the neccessary adjustments to fuel/ignition/TPS in the recommended area's.
I do not think it is absolutely neccessary to have the ignition module just to tune. However, with your particular setup, maybe so. There is the factor of more controling range with the ignition module installed.
The PC III USB alone can take a dyno tune, and I believe adding more pieces later can be brought in to adjustment by using the online Tech support.
My recommendation is to follow your "wallet", for now, and if you do have someone there with you that is savy to this. Use his advice, he is there with you, I am not. If you need further assistance, it is a good recommendation to call the online tech support and learn what they recommend. I think your buddy is good help.
My bike was stock. No trick engine work. I just added all the fun electronics, pipe, airfilter, a couple of stickers, some new trick dog leg clutch/brake levers, and a gel seat for my old fat ares.
I am sorry about the milage thing there. I am a horse power/torque junky. I did not notice any significant drop in milage. This is likely because, I havent really worried about that issue. I knew I was forgetting something.
If your wondering, No, I do not run out of gas after I twist the throttle a few times. You will still get decent milage.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I'm just asking these questions because I'm wondering if I should just buy the Dynojet FI Module tonight, so that it arrives around the same time as my PCIII. However, if I install the PCIII and the FI Module, will the bike be safe to drive to the dyno tuner or should I download a mediocre temporary tune to get it to the dyno? Sorry, I'm a noob when it comes to ECU's and tuning. You've been a lot of help SML, thank you.
 

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Its okay to be a noob. :cool: What you should consider is this: I am telling you my knowledge and experience. I have volunteered this freely.
I choose not to be contradictory to your friend who is giving you advice also.
With that being said; here it is. IF you can afford to get the parts now, do so. Yes, it is better to have the PC III, and Ignition module, and as many of the other parts on the bike for the dyno tune. (You can get away with just the PC III installed only, for now), its your "wallet" that needs to do the talking.
What I did:
I installed the PC III, Ignition module, airfilter, TaylorMade slipon, with fairing piece, downloaded the map for my combination setup, and then proceeded to ride my bike to the DynoJet dynomometer nearby. Paid my money for the tune, road the bike home. I have scarred myself a few times since then just by twisting the throttle, and looking at my shadow.:)
 

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I beleive your bike will be okay when you get it all together, and download a map that matches your setup/combination. I hope your understanding that because your bike has some engine modifications,"namely", cam timming, there is a distinct neccessitty for a dyno tune. I bet if you could find out what the cam degree timming is, you could get online with DynoJet tech support, and they could get you close enough. I got tech support free of charge. So, dont be affraid to give yourself some help by calling them.:cool:
Oh, and ah, dont worry about the getting scared of your shadow part. That only happened to me. Who know's, this might make you skip a semester with good grades to boot.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I think I'm just going to go with the PCIII for now. Like you said, I'm going to go with what my wallet says for right now. Everything you said has really helped out a lot. Makes a lot more sense now. :)
 
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