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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Sharkskinz, Rennsport, or Hotbodies? Any opinions about quality, durability, and ease of fitment? Hotbodies has a special ~$590 shipped for all...Any and all opinions appreciated.


Peace

J
 

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I just put RENNSPORT on mine and everyone at the track said "damn, that is much better and thicker than _____________" Insert sharkskinz, hotbodies & Cheetah. I'll post a pic of it tomorrow if I get it all back together.

BTW, you can get a better deal on the Rennsports, they are actually cheaper than the hotbodies special and 10 times more sturdy. As far as ease of fitment, I don't think there is such a thing when it comes to race plastic. It took me about 6 hours to get it right, being my 1st. install I took my time and it came out great. As for paint, I went for the "rattle" can look (blue/Yellow). Hey, it's a track bike...right? ; )
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Tank. I'll give Rennsport another looksee.


J
 

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I've been in this hunt for a few months now, and everything I have seen, read, and heard leads me to believe that HotBodies is not on par with Sharkskinz, Cheetah, and Rennsport. I have also heard great things about Armour Bodies.
 

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I had MultiTech on the RC51 and was very happy with it. Not sure if they are still going though; I know they had a fire in their facility a while back. I have Hotbodies now, pretty much just because I can get a set extremely cheap with my racer discount at LP. Fitment was a real pain, but then the SV doesn't have full bodywork stock, so that might be part of it. I'd seriously consider the Rennsport. They seem to be making a real effort to constantly improve their product and make their customers happy.
 

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I have only tried sharkskinz but have to admitt they have held up well for 3 crashes...one at a buck twenty five. They are pretty cracked up but still functional. Hotbodies are cheaper and it shows on my bros 929.
 

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Cheetah is barely ok. Skinz is the way to go though I have no exp/ with the Renns.
 

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CBRBob said:
Cheetah is barely ok.
Though I have no firsthand experience, I've been told that Cheetah is owned by an original half-owner of Sharkskinz, and that the build process the two use is the same, resulting in very similar products. :huh:
 

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I know it wasn't on your list, but don't rule out ARD racing in europe. I just bought a full set and the quality was top notch (and very easy to mount)
 

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Pete said:
Though I have no firsthand experience, I've been told that Cheetah is owned by an original half-owner of Sharkskinz, and that the build process the two use is the same, resulting in very similar products. :huh:
I installed Cheetas on a friends bike. They are nothing like Skinz :thumbd:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks all. Just ordered the OPP RACING Silver Titanium...NOT! :smilebig: Nice stuff but a bit out of my bike budget right now. Looks like I have some homework. Thanks for all the input and the new sources.

J
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Any opinions on Flexi-glass? I might have an opportunity to get a decent deal on these... depending on experience with Flexi, I'm gonna go Rennsport...Thanks again for sharing your experience/opinions.



J
 

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I can't answer your question directaly, but working in the boat buisness I know a bit about fiberglass and have hung a few 'glass bodyworks myself. Fit is purley the design of their mold and since building a mold is time consuming, alot of the cheaper stuff is harder to fit because the molds are not accurate. With the exception of tail sections that are relativly easy to make a plug (plug is the original product that the mold is made around), most race glass is either a copy of someones elses or the stock bodywork with mods. We call that "splashing" a mold off an existing product. You would be amazed at the number of boat builders that do this, especialy with the bottom molds that take time and money to get right, performance wise. How a 'glass bodies feels and performs is based on how it is layed up and with what materials. There are hundred, thousands acutaly, of different fiberglass cloths and mats. Different thicknesses, different weaves, bidirectional, tridirectional, mat of varying cut lengths, etc. Plus you have your other cloths like kevlar, carbon fiber, etc. Each with 100's of different styles. The resin they use mades a difference as well. Traditional fiberglass uses a polyester based resin, but like the cloths, there are many different styles, cure rates, flexabilities, etc. Then you also have your epoxy based resins as well. How nice and durable race glass ends up is based on dozens of factors from material choices to the lay up schedule (how many layers of what cloth), resin choice, to accuracy of the mold itself. So whats the point of all this, I guess that cheaper body work is cheaper because they either are using cheaper materials, fewer layers, or splashed a mold of someone elses bodyworkd and doesnt have to pay off the R&D costs. When talking to these different companies, ask them what materials they are using, how many layers, etc. That will give you domething tangable to compare each other too if you dont have the oppertunity to inspect each product first hand.

Mike
 

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fumbducker said:
Any opinions on Flexi-glass?
Never heard of it.

I went with AK Composites, and according to FedEx tracking, will arrive today.
 

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The 1000RR sharkskinz were quite impressive---waws the ONLY choice for the 1000RR as armour bodies still hasnt confirmed that they are gonna make them. Total set, incl tank cover was round $1,250.00---if you get sharkskinz get them to pre-drill the l,ower holes.
They fit perfect, have 1/2 holes pre drilled--those that arent have guides which make it quite easy to drill.

FYI--standrdx drill bits are NOT the way to drill holes--NOT sure what works better--gonna call sharkskinz--a "standard drill bit" tears up the fibreglass more than you would like.

My "paint guy" Bobby Keith says the Sharkskinz are the easiest to paint.

If you want Armour Bodies--call Jef Viets at Viets performance--heres the linkViets Performance
Tell Jeff V that Jeff G sent you--should get an excellent deal
 

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While it's better to use a drill bit designed for composites, you can use a standard drill bit with good results in a pinch.

After locating the hole, run the bit in REVERSE until you penetrate the gelcoat...then run it forward to finish the hole.

* It can also help to put a piece of masking tape down first to further reduce cracking of the gelcoat....

Ymmv......
 

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Baketech said:
While it's better to use a drill bit designed for composites, you can use a standard drill bit with good results in a pinch.

After locating the hole, run the bit in REVERSE until you penetrate the gelcoat...then run it forward to finish the hole.

* It can also help to put a piece of masking tape down first to further reduce cracking of the gelcoat....

Ymmv......
Thanks for the tip. I was thinking a step bit would be the way to go, but was having a very difficult time finding one at the local hardware outlets.
 
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