Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
825 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
See the link below for the removal of the front forks and how to disassemble the fork to remove the damper.

http://www.fireblades.org/forums/articles-honda-fireblade/90330-cbr-954-fork-removal-disassembly-rebuild-installation.html

Now you should have the damper removed from the fork. The stock compression valve (pic 1) is located in the bottom of the fork. Press on the valve body with your thumb and is should move about half an inch up in the damper. Now you will see a clip ring (pic 2) just above the bottom of the damper. Using a pick or small screwdriver remove this clip. Next I had to use a piece of 220 grit sandpaper to remove a small lip just below the clip ring you just removed. The valve assembly would not come out without removing this lip on my bike. Once this lip is smooth re-install the bolt from the bottom of the fork and use it to pull out the stock compression valve (pic 3).

Next you will need a good digital caliper to take measurements of the stock valve assembly and to measure the washers that come with the gold valves. First measure the entire stock valve assembly and record the measurement. Mine was about 51.69mm. Now you need to loosen the allen screw holding the stock valve assembly together. Place the lower part of the valve in a vise with soft jaws so you don't damage it and loosen the bolt. As you remove the bolt turn it upside down to keep all the stock parts on the bolt. This way you keep it together so you can place them on a small screwdriver to keep the order correct. (pic 4) You will use a few of the stock parts with the gold valve kit.

Here is the stock order just in case you get things mixed up. (Pic 4)
1. Bolt (R) R= use with gold valve
2. Cupped Washer (R)
3. Spring (looks like a bent washer)
4. sleeve (R)
5. Check plate (R)
6. Valve
7. .12x17mm washer
8. .10x13mm
9. .10x16mm
10. .10x16mm
11. .10x15mm
12. .10-.11x15mm
13. .10-.11x15mm
14. .22x8mm
15. .55x11mm(R)
16. Base (R)

Now you will need to use the access code that is printed on the instructions from racetech to get the recommended valve stack for your weight and riding style. This will determine which washers will be used with your gold valve. There will be a Restrictor Valving stack and Compression Valving stack. My recommendation was the 00.09 restrictor valving and c34 compression valving. You will have to use your digital caliper to measure out the correct washers for your recommended valving stack. These measurements are very small and you have to very precise with your measurements. The washers do not come in individual labeled bags but are mixed together in a few bags. This makes no sense to me since it would be much easier if they came in their own bag and labeled so you didn't have to measurement all of them to sort them into their respective stacks. Once you have measured and sorted all of the washer you are ready to begin the install.

Here is the order of assembly:
1. Bolt (stock)
2. Cupped Washer (stock)
3. Sleeve (stock)
4. Spring
5. Check Plate (stock)
6. Gold Valve with recessed side facing the sleeve and o-ring installed
7. Restrictor Valving stack (00.09 = (2) .15x9mm & (2) .10x9mm
8. Compression Valving stack (c34 = (4) .15x17, .10x15, .10x13, .10x12, .10x11, .10x10, .10x9)
9. Base plate ( 1 of the thick washers from racetech kit)
10. Washer (Last washer from stock valving)
11. Stock base (this is part the bolt is screwed into) Needs loctite

Using one thick base plate from kit and the last stock washer my overall height was within .05mm of the stock height. The gold valve is thinner than the stock valve so you must compensate for this difference.

Once you are sure you have this assembled correctly you are ready to attach it to the base using loctite on the threads and tightening the bolt to 30 in-lbs. After you tighten the bolt there should be no movement. If the gold valve is loose or if you are to move any of the parts it is not correct. Loosen the bolt and re-check everything then try again. Once you are sure its correct and tight check the overall length to make sure its all as close as possible to the stock valve height.

You are ready to re-install the valve assembly into the damper. Push the valve into the damper and re-install the clip ring. You are finished installing the gold valve.

Follow the instructions in the thread at the top of the page on how to put your forks together, fill with fluid, bleed the fork and re-install on your bike.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Once again, great write up. Wish this was here a couple of weeks ago. LOL.
I've just finished installing mine and different to your write up I was advised here to just use the stock base as the base plate. 0.55 x 11. As you suggest this would make my stack shorter than standard (which I never measured)

Does this mean I need to pull the forks again and disassemble? They seem to work ok but haven't set my static sag and ridden the bike hard yet.
I had checked my plans with a motorbike suspension specialist.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Thanks, very nice write up!! That sorts out the "compression valve". What about the rebound valve? Any thoughts on that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
825 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, very nice write up!! That sorts out the "compression valve". What about the rebound valve? Any thoughts on that?
I would expect the process for rebound valves to be very similar if not the same as the compression valves. My bike did not have rebound valves that could be changed or I would have got them too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
I would expect the process for rebound valves to be very similar if not the same as the compression valves. My bike did not have rebound valves that could be changed or I would have got them too.
Okay, I think my forks are the same as your then, hence the question. I couldn't locate the rebound valves....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
I was just searching race tech's web site and couldn't find a rebound valve either. I called race tech and they couldn't confirm that the rebound valve for the 929 would work- but they suspect it will! (FRGV S302). I pulled up info on both models from MRcyles and the Damper (51430-MCJ-003) shows a different part numbers.

Has anyone tried this or know if it might work? How was the change when you just installed the compression valve?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
511 Posts
I was just searching race tech's web site and couldn't find a rebound valve either. I called race tech and they couldn't confirm that the rebound valve for the 929 would work- but they suspect it will! (FRGV S302). I pulled up info on both models from MRcyles and the Damper (51430-MCJ-003) shows a different part numbers.

Has anyone tried this or know if it might work? How was the change when you just installed the compression valve?
Another option is to take apart what you have and clean the valving stacks in contact cleaner and sand the piston faces.. You can downnload the racetech suspension bible on piratebay which shows how to do everything.. :eyebrows:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
511 Posts
so i tried tightening the hollow stock bolt to 30 in/lbs to put the valve back together and it snapped! either the calibration was way off or the indent was so so weak i didnt even feel it, anyway so much for 1/4" harbor freight torque wrench, I was worried this would happen since I'm not too confident in HF precision instruments,especially in the inch lb measurements. I never had a problem with their larger 3/8" & 1/2" ft/lb torque wrenches..oh well, anybody know the part # for a replacement bolt, I dont see it listed in any of the parts fiches?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
511 Posts
Does the spring go back with the bend / pointed end facing the cupped washer like an upside down V with the two base legs resting on the check plate like it is sitting in the picture?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
511 Posts
so i tried tightening the hollow stock bolt to 30 in/lbs to put the valve back together and it snapped! either the calibration was way off or the indent was so so weak i didnt even feel it, anyway so much for 1/4" harbor freight torque wrench, I was worried this would happen since I'm not too confident in HF precision instruments,especially in the inch lb measurements. I never had a problem with their larger 3/8" & 1/2" ft/lb torque wrenches..oh well, anybody know the part # for a replacement bolt, I dont see it listed in any of the parts fiches?
Looks like I'm going to have to make a bolt since nobody seems to carry this item.. I tried Honda, Race tech, Kyle, Erion, & Traxxion..WTH? :idunno:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Hi Backdoc,

Thanks very much for your contributions mate they have helped me out alot.

Do you know how to get into the cartridge to fit it with a racetech rebound valve?

I have disassembled my forks using the manual and your post. I would like to install Racetech rebound valves.

I have actually undone the nut on the plunger/ shim stack inside the cartridge (these are now on the bolt in the picture to keep the order in which they came off) which resulted in the spiralling of the flanged over rod end (this is hidden inside the cartridge tube). This will now have to be filed and after installing the new racetech valve the nut will need to be locktited back on but again do you know how to open and get to the plunger/ rebound valve inside?

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Ok have just seen the post you made further up saying that your bike doesnt have rebound valves that can be replaced.
Mine is a 929 so does that apply to me as well?
Racetech say that they have rebound valves for the 929:

Rebound - HFR Gold Valve Kit-Racing - FRGV SR2001
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Another option is to take apart what you have and clean the valving stacks in contact cleaner and sand the piston faces.. You can downnload the racetech suspension bible on piratebay which shows how to do everything.. :eyebrows:
Hey Verticle, I'm trying to download "the bible" but seeds are offline. Any chance of grabbing a copy via google drive or drop box or something? That sure would be a helpful read.

Cheers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
825 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Hi Backdoc,

Thanks very much for your contributions mate they have helped me out alot.

Do you know how to get into the cartridge to fit it with a racetech rebound valve?

I have disassembled my forks using the manual and your post. I would like to install Racetech rebound valves.

I have actually undone the nut on the plunger/ shim stack inside the cartridge (these are now on the bolt in the picture to keep the order in which they came off) which resulted in the spiralling of the flanged over rod end (this is hidden inside the cartridge tube). This will now have to be filed and after installing the new racetech valve the nut will need to be locktited back on but again do you know how to open and get to the plunger/ rebound valve inside?

Thanks.
If the rebound valve assembly is able to be replaced it will be inside the lower part of the damper. The pic is for reference only and not of a 929 or 954.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
I know this is an old thread but threads like this are timeless! I Have a question for the experienced 954 track riders! I have a 954 that is like new even though it's 14 years old, the bike has 6k and I put most of that on it in the past few years. I found a new bike on an old guys garage. Anyway, I just purchased a RaceTech 1.1kg spring along with a gold valve kit. Is it worth pulling the fork apart to instal the valve kit at this time? I do need the spring because my weights 210lb in season, the bike is set up for a 165-175lbs rider. ith that, said the forks are in 99% out of perfect shape. is it work tearing the forks apart for the valve or just springs it until it needs a rebuild ? I also purchased the All Balles fork rebuild kit, here is a list of part that I purchased.
1. All Balls Racing Fork and Dust Seal Kit
2. Race Tech - FMGV S2040G G2-R Gold Valve Fork Kits
3. Race Tech Fork Springs 1.1KG/MM
4. All Balls - 22-1020 Steering Stem Bearing Kit
5. ELKA-REAR-SHOCK-STAGE-4-HONDA-CBR954RR-ELKA-40102
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
The gold valves came in today. I have a question, there are 8 ports or pass-throughs in the valve, but only 4 are open. Is this normal? The pics I see of the 954 gold valve have all open ports. I'm attaching the some pic of the valves that I got today. Also did you have to drill bleed holes in the valve? I don't think that process apply to the 954 gold valves. but I thought I read it on a forum.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
I believe I see what it is now. I did not open them yet. I just opened them and I see the for closed looking ports have ports open on the side of the valve.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top