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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:confused: ive notced when ive been riding the cbr400 the rear brake doesnt seem to be doing anything, even with the pedal hard down. looks like there is some new pads init, is there anything i should check for first ? or is there anyways to adjust the pedal, or ...... ?

also i have noticed in the coolant tank it seems to be just plain water, so will require changing before the cold weather comes, where abouts is the drain bolt? on the rad and tank ?

many thanks
 

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First get back wheel off ground, then spin it press rear break if nothing hapens chances are caliper needs freeing off, if caliper is ok bleed brakes,not much more other than if pedal goes down with ease but caliper doesnt move the seals might be shot. If however caliper moves the pads might need roughing up with sand paper as they might be glazed.
 

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:confused: ive notced when ive been riding the cbr400 the rear brake doesnt seem to be doing anything, even with the pedal hard down. looks like there is some new pads init, is there anything i should check for first ? or is there anyways to adjust the pedal, or ...... ?

also i have noticed in the coolant tank it seems to be just plain water, so will require changing before the cold weather comes, where abouts is the drain bolt? on the rad and tank ?

many thanks
After seeing this question and replying in your other thread I really think you need to buy yourself a manual for your bike.. You should be able to pick one up for about a tenner on Ebay :thumb:

You could have problems with the brake fluid, they might need bleeding, a seized caliper..... As for the coolant, yes it will need sorting out for the winter but again the manual will tell you.. I can't find mine at the moment, it may be in the garage but then again I've been decorating so it could be just about anywhere :crap::rotfl:
 

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As for the coolant, yes it will need sorting out for the winter but again the manual will tell you.. I can't find mine at the moment, it may be in the garage but then again I've been decorating so it could be just about anywhere :crap::rotfl:
The best way to drain ALL the coolant (or in your case water) is via the water pump on the lower left hand side of the bike, just in front of the left foot peg. From memory you take off the radiator cap and undo the bolt closest to the floor at the back of the pump. Don't forget to have a large container under that area before you start.

Once its all drained, flush the system through thoroughly with fresh water with the drain bolt still out. When the only thing coming out of the drain hole is fresh water, stop, tighten the bolt back up and fill up the cooling system with 50% coolant and 50% water.

Very important
With the radiator cap still off the bike, start the bike up and let her warm up. While this is happening give the coolant hoses on both sides of the bike a good squeeze the help free the trapped air. While looking into the radiator (where the cap sits) rev the bike up. You should see the fluid level rising and falling and bubbles of air trying to escape. When you can no longer see air escaping, turn the bike off and top up the radiator with coolant. Replace radiator cap, put on riding gear and go for a spin:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
but i wont no if it is overheating or anything unless it smells like burning and my temperature guage never moves atall. has it actually got its own cap for the radiator or fill it up by the bottle near the rear shock ?
 

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My brakes where pants and peeps said to me that "its a superbike and they arnt great" after replacing pads and bleeding they are now quite good. There was still loads on the old pads! but there where a bit shiny !


I had nothing at all, if i hit them at 30 mph it would take 3 miles to stop !!

So for the cost replace and bleed them and make sure the caliper is working.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i have found they have started to get slightly better with use, so could be where new pads have been fitted and not bedded it fully and with a combination of air maybe
 

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It depends on how long and hard you ride...Brake fluid will absolutly lose its vescosity if not changed for long periods of time, causing the pedal to drop and NO stop.... If you dont ride like a complete maniac and your breaks worked at one time, I dought its your pads. Master cylinders do go out, however for a general rule if there is fluid in the resevor and not dribbling down your swingarm start with changing the fluid. You'll be up in running in no time flat.:patriot:
 

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but i wont no if it is overheating or anything unless it smells like burning and my temperature guage never moves atall. has it actually got its own cap for the radiator or fill it up by the bottle near the rear shock ?
If you follow the procedure I gave you, you will not overheat the engine. Radiator has its own cap at the front of the bike, just forward and under your right hand if you were sitting on the bike. Do not try to fill the coolant system from the reservoir (bottle) above the rear shock. Once you've cleared all the air from the pipes (when no more bubbles show themselves at the radiator cap when revving up) and replaced the cap, then fill the reservoir to the required level with coolant. You actually don't put much in there at all. You may even find you don't need to put anything in.
 

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First get back wheel off ground, then spin it press rear break if nothing hapens chances are caliper needs freeing off, if caliper is ok bleed brakes,not much more other than if pedal goes down with ease but caliper doesnt move the seals might be shot. If however caliper moves the pads might need roughing up with sand paper as they might be glazed.
I think this is the post bladeracer recycled you to. Pretty much everything you need is in this thread concerning rear calipers. Look very carefully for leaks, and obviously, check level and condition of your brake fluid.

Look online for a downloadable manual. You may find a free one. I'm finding free manuals for some of the Honda's, but haven't looked for yours.
Good luck, keep trying, be safe.
 

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Hi all again,

The problem i have is, when the caliper is on, and the bike on a paddock, it doesnt spin freely, almost as if the pads are touching e disc, you can hear it.. thought it was a warped disc and have now changed that. But still have the problem

With the caliper off the wheel spins much more freely

I have now taken the caliper off to see if i can figure out the problem,
Any ideas, or is it supposed to be this way?
 

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Cant figure out how to edit, but to add, i have still got the bike on paddock stand, started it, and put in gear with clutch lever in the wheel is moving!!! Wtf
 

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Cant figure out how to edit, but to add, i have still got the bike on paddock stand, started it, and put in gear with clutch lever in the wheel is moving!!! Wtf

This is normal.
It should stop after the oil comes up to temp.
 

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Hi all again,

The problem i have is, when the caliper is on, and the bike on a paddock, it doesnt spin freely, almost as if the pads are touching e disc, you can hear it.. thought it was a warped disc and have now changed that. But still have the problem

With the caliper off the wheel spins much more freely

I have now taken the caliper off to see if i can figure out the problem,
Any ideas, or is it supposed to be this way?

Since you have the calper off, are the pistons sliding freely?
If it's single-piston are the slide pins smooth and greased up?
With the caliper installed, is the disc centred in the caliper?
 
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