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Discussion Starter #1
OK so after reading like 5 pages from a thread that took me like a hour, i now have some question/ concerns to my blade.

1. I had no idea what a "viking" mod was till i saw the pic of the mod, and my bike has that mod actually and i never knew,
2. I have a K&N Filter with headers and a slipon.
3. The last time i cleaned out my carbs my needles were stock. i dont understand why the previous owner would do so much modding and not worry about the jets,
4. After reading i read that Racing Had Said by putting 2 M3 Washers should increase my gas flow cause i was having the same problems as lambchops
5. I actually had to Cover one of my air induct tubes with a rag or something for my bike to run properly and no bogging ( Still does Actually but very lil)

Any Ideas or saying to this guys?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
When i meant needles i mean all 4, where i was questioning to add the M3 washers.

I remember taking the jets out to clean them to be on the safe side a couple of months ago, i didnt notice no drilling nothing of that kinda wear on the jets, everything is pretty much stock on my carbs, my needle is stock as it doesnt have the lil clip to adjust the hights like DJ,

As far as my Airbox, There is no holes on the airbox at all, it just has that center funnel piece removed, and also it does have the K&N Filter,

Also whats this Air Deflector you are talking about?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi Sfigher, when you say the needles were stock I take it you mean the jets? As I said in the other thread check the full airbox mods have been done and then add the 140 main jets.

Sorry im such a noob on this, but what exactly is "140" main jet? how does the numbering work? is 140 the stock jet?
 

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Ah ok, if you just have the trumpet intake removed then its not had the viking mod. The 140 mains are very large jets, standard I think is 115.. If you look very close at the jet you will see the numbering on them its very small. Normal rejet for K&N and end can is I think about 120 - 125. If you have standard jets and a K&N and pipe I would sugest you get 120 mains. Or if you want to do the full viking mod to the airbox get the 140 in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ah ok, if you just have the trumpet intake removed then its not had the viking mod. The 140 mains are very large jets, standard I think is 115.. If you look very close at the jet you will see the numbering on them its very small. Normal rejet for K&N and end can is I think about 120 - 125. If you have standard jets and a K&N and pipe I would sugest you get 120 mains. Or if you want to do the full viking mod to the airbox get the 140 in there.
ill might as well go 140 then, whats a decent website to get these jets from? yesterday i saw a website selling them $3.99 each
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, so far this is what i have done, i have a buddy that has his own shop, he sold me 4 130 main jets for $10, after installing them the power is increased greatly, but still have the same problem before it would bog on me around 7k rpm, not its on the top end that bogging out on me, my only solution well actually be 140?, i just came back from switching the 130's for some 132's ima install them and see how it runs with that
 

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You need to do the air box mods as per that other thread, from what I understand you only have the trumpets removed. Have a look at the other thread for the details of what you need to do, if it's bogging at the top end I think you now have too much fuel and not enough air would be my guess
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sounds about right to me i need air now, cause a good test is to use the choke while the time that its bogging on me, if it needs fuel it will run smooth ( no bogging) (holding a the choke) and when i do, it still bogs on me, lemme try modding my air box
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok WOW, after a bit of modding, my bike is running like never before, its running super smooth no bogging on any rpms with such power.!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ha yes:), everything is alot faster when u have a street fighter. all u gotta take off is the gas tank haha
 

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Ok gentlemen, I just finished with the Viking mod on my 93 900 and it certainly makes a difference. I went on a quick run and the top end is nice, but im having some trouble at the low end. It is a little sluggish and then it really gets after it after 6k RPM. My pilot screws are set at 3 turns right now, I have a little overun pop but very little. Do you guys think I need to adjust the needles up or turn my pilot screws?
 

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Do you have a dynojet kit fitted? If you have some overun could be she is a little lean. If you have the dynojet kit try raising the needles a notch whicih I think gives more fuel, or if that doesnt help drop them down a notch, may take some time to get sorted correctly (sorry im no expert with carbs) I have my pilot screws at 3 turns and do not have any popping on overrun at all, if you do could be worth taking them out to 3 1/2 turns and going from there.

What size main jets did you use the 140's?

Some info on setting the needle height:

  • Select best needle clip position
To get the best power at full throttle / 5k-7k rpm, adjust the needle height, after you have already selected the best main jet.
  • If the engine pulls better or is smoother at full throttle/5k-7k in a full throttle roll-on starting at <3k when cool but soft and/or rough when at full operating temperature, it is too rich in the midrange and the needle should be lowered.
  • If the engine pulls better when fully warmed up but still not great between 5k-7k, try raising the needle to richen 5k-7k.
  • If the engine pulls equally well between 5k-7k when cooler as compared to fully warmed up, the needle height is probably properly set.
 

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Cool, thanks. I'll play with next week, I'm playing G.I. Joe this weekend. I'm going to start with lowering the e-clip and go from there. Keep you guys posted.
 
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