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Discussion Starter #1
Well guys my engine decided to blow a headgasket and piston rings so I took it out and tore it down. I cracked the cases open and removed everything and took the block and head to a local shop to hone and deck the block and head and check if the bores and pistons are in spec. Well I got a call today saying that 3 cylinders were fine to hone but #2 needed to be bored .25 over. The shop seems to think that just boring one cylinder and leaving the others just honed is going to work but when I look online I'm seeing that this could be a bad idea. Is .25 over enough to throw the weights off on the rotating assembly and prematurely wear on the crank or other parts?

Hopefully someone can help me out as I'm supposed to go down there tomorrow to talk to them and pick it up or have them bore the rest as well.

Thanks,
Connor
 

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You can buy all new honda pistons .025 over for like 40-50 each. I would bore all not just the one. May not make a difference in lower rpm car engine. But a sport bike engine has tight oil clearence and needs be balanced pretty well. I wouldn't recommend only boring one cylinder. If anything resleve the one and bore back to 71mm which is standard bore for that engine sc33. Or 70mm if the sc28..

Maybe bladeracer can give some more insight on your situation.
But from what I kno I would say bore all or.. resleeve the one in question and bore back to standard bore.

While your inside the motor clean up all factory casting flaws I found few spots in mine where I ground off what coulda been where oil was blocked flow by Lil ridges or flaws in caseing.dunno how much help it was but makes me feel better considering I spun #3 rod bearing last time.

You can also get some 10.25 mm studs from arp for $120 retap your threads in the block. And you can put bout 60lbs of torque down on them the stud goes finger tight the nut on top they say can crank to 65 lbs I only went to 60 tho. Vs the 35lbs of torque for the bolts that honda used. :(

Its what I did in my engine. But I do plan to turbo it once I get the funds.

Good luck on the build.
KEEP ME/US POSTED :)
 

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Always love to see pictures of builds, be it engine or whole bike :nod: Keep us up to date on what's going on, and best of luck to ya! :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks guys well I've already done a frame swap on it because of a title issue so this time everything coming apart is going a little quicker. Had the engine dropped out of the bike in just a shade over an hour

Here's how it sits right now


This is back when I did the frame swap




Ill get some pics of the engine all nice and clean tomorrow. Hopefully blade racer will chime in with his knowledge as well.
 

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Well guys my engine decided to blow a headgasket and piston rings so I took it out and tore it down. I cracked the cases open and removed everything and took the block and head to a local shop to hone and deck the block and head and check if the bores and pistons are in spec. Well I got a call today saying that 3 cylinders were fine to hone but #2 needed to be bored .25 over. The shop seems to think that just boring one cylinder and leaving the others just honed is going to work but when I look online I'm seeing that this could be a bad idea. Is .25 over enough to throw the weights off on the rotating assembly and prematurely wear on the crank or other parts?

Hopefully someone can help me out as I'm supposed to go down there tomorrow to talk to them and pick it up or have them bore the rest as well.

Thanks,
Connor

You can just do the one if you want to, balance won't be an issue, just weigh all four pistons beforehand to make sure they're close.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I think im going to do just one. It's only getting bored over .25 mil so i think I'll be safe. Anybody have a favorite gasket kit or should I just piece one together out of oem gaskets. I'm planning on doing all new bearings as well since I'm in there. Adds some cost but knowing my luck I better do it.
 

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Well I think im going to do just one. It's only getting bored over .25 mil so i think I'll be safe. Anybody have a favorite gasket kit or should I just piece one together out of oem gaskets. I'm planning on doing all new bearings as well since I'm in there. Adds some cost but knowing my luck I better do it.

Id go for cometic gaskets, but oem are fine too.
When u order bearings id use ronayers they are cheapest I found. Flea bay for gasket kit.
How were your valve seals? Are you going to tear head down check valve guides spirings and valves? Lol or would you rather just not know. It could get pricey.
Your oil pump okay? You check any transmission gears washers etc for wear? Since your there
 

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Discussion Starter #9
All Im seeing is dollar signs haha oil pump and water pump are good. Tranny is good and the head is getting the valves lapped and a shop is checking the head out for me then Ill be assembling everything.
 

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Yea it gets Lil $$$
But while your there ya kno go over with fine tooth comb. Be better in the long run.
don't cut corners now even if takes 3 extra weeks for parts. You'll be happier
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Getting ready to put her back together and I need to order my bearings and gaskets. Is the color coding on the bearings themselves easy to discern or should I try to get a measurement on them. I think they are black but I want to be absolutely positive before I order
 

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There should be capitol letters stamped into the crankcase denoting the bearing designation. Sometimes the color on the bearing itself is hard to determine ie-black vs brown. Check it and see how they compare.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That was my thought as well. Black,blue,and brown may be hard to figure out after its been sitting inside an engine for 25000 miles. I will look for the numbers on the case and see what it says!
 

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What bearing are you going to replace? Rods and mains?
Look for 5capitol letters on case and that give main sizes and on crank should be set of letters for the rods and there's letter and # on side of rod big end.
Get some plastic gauge to see how bad your bearings are to see if they are in bad shape or useable. Could have wear on journal and need larger bearing.
but definately get some plasti gauge the Green stuff I believe is right clearance
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm replacing both the rods and mains while I'm in there. I have terrible luck with these things so I think if I don't replace them they will spin 2 weeks after I put it back together.
 

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I'm replacing both the rods and mains while I'm in there. I have terrible luck with these things so I think if I don't replace them they will spin 2 weeks after I put it back together.
Either way you need to plasti gauge it be sure oil clearence are within specs even with new color coded bearing its worth the 20 mins and 3$ in plasti gauge.. plus u could save cash by using the bearings that are still good. And replace those known bad or getting loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Wasnt saying I wouldnt do it just saying what the plan was! Ill pick up some plastigauge for sure
 

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Ha ha cool man. Just checking hate to hear bout engine failure after build. I got 7000+ miles on my rebuild I completed in May. No probs. Hope goes as well for you.
so u got bore done and new piston and rings for the one cylinder?

Keep us posted. And maybe some pics! :)

Mmmmm.... I love some good greasy bike porn.

Btw. Do some looking think ronayers has cheaper bearings then bike bandit and other places. But ronayers is more pricey on other things. Do some shopping I saved atleast 100$ by just checking back and forth.

Again goodluck and keep us posted
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yep been looking at pricing as well. Gearup2go.com has good prices on oem stuff as well they are a forum vendor I just checked them out today and they are cheaper than bike bandit and motosport
 

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Cool man. I hadn't checked them out before. Ill have to take a look at price differences. Bike bandit I had free shipping so it made up for small part cost difference. But ronayers I had pay shipping but was still cheaper then bike bandit with my free shipping ..

Gearup2go.com ehhh... ill check it out.
 
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