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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi new guy here from Sydney.
Was just stuffing around with my CBR clutch and noticed the basket castlation profile was exactly the same as my 08 KTM 450 EXC which just happens to have a Rekluse auto CORE EXP clutch in it so obviously I lobbed the centrifugal unit in and went for a ride.
I had to shim the CBR pressure plate so it gave the Rekluse just the right amount of clearance.
It makes the bike a dream to ride in traffic but wont let you do screamin big drag race starts.
I can give it a big hand full and it will go to 2500 rpm or 3000. I mean its off an enduro bike.
If I want a faster start I can pull the clutch lever in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The nuts n bolts of it.
Went for a long test ride in traffic and it was dreamy.
The bike still has a standard ECU but Ive put in the HRC WSBK cams and Arata full Ti system so when I crack it off the lights it falls on its face.
Ordered a power commander III which should arrive soon.
 

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Interesting…waiting to hear until you give it a full thrashing.

Reminds me of a thread where a guy swapped parts to make a DIY slipper clutch for the SC57. He did some machine work but wasn’t very good at explaining what he did so nobody could replicate his results…bummer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You would need to make shims to get this to work because modifying the slave cylinder would be too hard to seal the clutch fluid in after putting an adjustment bolt in.
If you could make the shims it would be better than the bolt because theres no pressure on the torrington bearing. You can basically ride indefinitely without pulling the clutch in.
Clutchless up shifts are the norm anyway and down shifting is easy when the revs get to idle at least in traffic.
Anyway heres a centrifugal unit on ebay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The reason why its not releasing immediately when I stop is because the centrifugal unit is worn out. Its done 290 hours of hard enduro in the KTM and the teflon pads are gone. the steel weights are gouging into the aluminium ramps.
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
$255 later the Rekluse auto unit is rebuilt but put back into the KTM.
The CBR will need a standard clutch (non slipper) before I put an auto unit in it. Have decided for the work this bike is doing, an auto clutch is more usefull and more enjoyable than a slipper clutch.
I figured out I cant have both because the auto unit defeats the slipper unit. When the slipper hub corkscrews out and pushes the pressure plate off the pack to disengage it, the auto unit spreads a little further and fills the gap re-engaging the clutch.
I have standard clutch hub friction plates and pressure plate but no steels and springs. If anyone here has a spare clutch lying around give me a PM.
Once I have a standard clutch in there I can then go and blow $500 on a new auto unit. I can then also make shims to gap the pressure plate out and sell them to others who want an auto clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got complete used clutch from Melbourne and am in the process of fitting the Rekluse auto unit to it.
I used the worn Rekluse frames from the KTM and just filed the ramp surfaces back with a nail board.
Then bought new weights, quarter turn screws and hard yellow springs. $220 A complete auto unit would be $500
Its a lot harder to fit than Sigma slipper clutch that took existing shims. The standard clutch will need a shim thats 7.5mm thick.
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
To prop the pressure plate out away from the stack you could put a large diameter shim where the green line is or 5 smaller tubes around the spring posts where the red line is. Either way its better than supporting the pressure plate from the throwout bearing like Rekluse does because it holds the pressure plate squarer in relation to the stack and doesnt cause drag. The KTM springs have worn in their age and the pressure plate sits a bit cock eyed causing drag.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Spacers are 17mm ID 24mm OD and 6mm 5083 aluminium plate
Half hour on the cnc, big chamfer to cope with the casting fillet. If you were desperate you could use a stack of washers from the hardware store,
but these spacers must be exactly the same thickness to eliminate drag when standing still.
The assembly gave a little too much gap between auto unit and pressure plate but it works well.
On test drive, giving a small handfull from standing start again raised faults with the tune but the yellow springs gave a higher stall rpm and just the right amount.
Freewheels nicely too for reversing and starting in gear.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
6mm was a bit big so I cut some more spacers out of 4mm and 1mm to make 5mm spacers.
Brings the gap right down but not as revvy on standing start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So had to pull the HRC cams and put the stockers back in without the PCIII for now. The tuner couldnt access the std ECU.
He says he can dyno a map for the PCIII for $400. If anyone can find a map for an 04 with Arata full Ti system, let me know.
The HRC cams are for sale now with the harness and ecu. Got stacks, valve springs and incomplete set of valves.
The stock cams fixed the hesitation at 4krpm but didnt loose the BOOMF flame thrower noise on engine brake, cool.
The Rekluse FUKIN R O C K S the drag races off the lights. Absolute perfect clutch modulation every time without thinkin and will loft the front wheel usually.

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No wheelie until the clutch has finished slipping ie till you get to the other side of the intersection and starts climbing into the revs.
Sounds like its bogging but that was half throttle, 3000rpm stall wouldnt matter if you gave it full.
There will always be this adjustment balance between stall rpm and how easily the clutch disengages as you are going through an intersection.
If you drill the weights to lighten them for higher stall rpm, it will become annoying in intersections constantly slipping and disengaging.
I rode 200km yesterday without pulling the clutch lever once...not once. I simply dont use it anymore. I love being able to nail take offs perfectly every time without thinking and just leaving cars 100m behind me at every traffic light. This is something I could never do with a standard CBR clutch, it would just grab.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The Rekluse auto unit has an axial stroke of 1.2mm between collapsed at 1100 rpm and fully expanded at over 1500 rpm.
So you should shim your installation gap down around 0.5mm.
 
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