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Hey I'm trying to install a power commander 3 and having issues getting the main harness unplugged, do I need to remove the gas tank to get it apart and reach in there? . Anyone got any tips? Thanks for the help, my first post here
 

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That one is a sod to get apart. You might get at it one hand below. Easier to raise the tank up tbh. No need to disconnect any wires or pipes though as there is enough slack to allow you access.

If it’s any help you will find it just as hard to plug the PC3 ones back on to the loom! Watch out for the water resistant seals - just make sure they are seated in the plugs ok. These are tight to get clipped together again.

HTH
 

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have you tried angry cursing as you attempt to shove your square hand into that round hole? it might be more willing to give you what you want if you give it some of your knuckle blood as sacrifice for the pleasure of being allowed to upgrade the fuel system.

itll kinda be time consuming, but once youve done it a few times itll seem like a breeze... remove the air filter box, including the velocity stacks and lower portion. being careful to take note of the vacuum hoses and the two electrical connections.(easy to forget one on reassembly)

then get a screwdriver in on the four rubber boots that secure the throttle bodies to the intake ports of the head. loosen those. with a rocking motion on the whole throttle body unit, pop them free from the boots.

now you have several inches you can move them around without unhooking any hoses or cables. should be enough to reach in and get it done.

then just reassemble.

be careful not to drop anything down the now exposed intake ports! :)
 

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@954Kevin, whilst I like the humour your a very naughty boy!! Someone might actually take your plan seriously!! you might as well just say to take the engine out and do it on the bench!! LOL
 

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lol. its not that bad. i can have the throttle bodies loose in under 15 minutes. if you think that harness is a tough reach, try installing and adjusting an ape manual cam chain tensioner! :)
 

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I've got a APE manual cam chain tensioner, (same one fits CBR929 & CBR954) and fitted that ok. Airbox stayed where it is. I will admit it is fiddly but its there and I can adjust it too!

The only thing I have had to remove the airbox for was to fit 954 injectors in to my 929. imho you make yourself too much work!! :lol:

There is no reason on this planet to remove the air box and intakes in order to take that grey plug apart to fit the PC! In fact when I was having the starting and electrical issues I actually disconnected the PC at the roadside!
 

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i mean i could get my hands on it to remove it without removing anything, but the op states its impossible for him to reach. if he cant reach it, the only real option he has is to make some more room so he can reach it.

i suppose there is some slight variance on individual 954's. because on mine, the top bolt that held in the oem cct was so close to the frame that a socket couldnt go over it, let alone a socket and ratchet. it was so close that the head of the bolt was touching the frame as it reached the end of the threads upon removal.

my only option was to use a very small box wrench and approach the bolt from the top. admittedly, i already had the airbox off when i fit my ape because i was doing the spark plugs at the same time.

i could reach the ape to adjust it through the left side of the bike, but using the ole listen and feel method to adjust was a little cumbersome from the left side of the bike.

ive used ape tensioners on multiple bikes from multiple manufacturers. my 954 was the hardest, by far, to get a confident adjustment on. further, i like to mark the ape locking nut with a mark so i can visually inspect that it hasnt backed off or loosened. not necessarily before every ride, but often enough to keep my thoughts off it while i ride like my hair is on fire.

the problem was i couldnt even lay eyes on it without pulling the left fairing and looking through between the frame and engine. let alone place an easily spotted mark to check.

in the end, it became more of a hassle than i felt like dealing with. i wasnt comfortable getting it adjusted with 100% confidence, and keeping my eye on it was a chore. so i just bought a new oem cct, installed that and deal with the idea ill have to likely replace it at some point in the future.

popping the throttle bodies lose was as simple as loosening the four screws on the boots. then pulling them up and pushing them over a little opened up a lot more clearance for me to get a purchase on the top cct bolt with my wrench.

ive the flapper mod and smog block off plates done, so pulling the air box and velocity stacks is short work. twelve screws, two hoses and two electrical connectors.

for me, thats a quick way to make room in that area if there is something i cant get my hands on. :)
 

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I've got a APE manual cam chain tensioner, (same one fits CBR929 & CBR954) and fitted that ok. Airbox stayed where it is. I will admit it is fiddly but its there and I can adjust it too!

The only thing I have had to remove the airbox for was to fit 954 injectors in to my 929. imho you make yourself too much work!! :lol:

There is no reason on this planet to remove the air box and intakes in order to take that grey plug apart to fit the PC! In fact when I was having the starting and electrical issues I actually disconnected the PC at the roadside!
You are actually advanced in this.:thumb:
 

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i mean i could get my hands on it to remove it without removing anything, but the op states its impossible for him to reach. if he cant reach it, the only real option he has is to make some more room so he can reach it.

i suppose there is some slight variance on individual 954's. because on mine, the top bolt that held in the oem cct was so close to the frame that a socket couldnt go over it, let alone a socket and ratchet. it was so close that the head of the bolt was touching the frame as it reached the end of the threads upon removal.

my only option was to use a very small box wrench and approach the bolt from the top. admittedly, i already had the airbox off when i fit my ape because i was doing the spark plugs at the same time.

i could reach the ape to adjust it through the left side of the bike, but using the ole listen and feel method to adjust was a little cumbersome from the left side of the bike.

ive used ape tensioners on multiple bikes from multiple manufacturers. my 954 was the hardest, by far, to get a confident adjustment on. further, i like to mark the ape locking nut with a mark so i can visually inspect that it hasnt backed off or loosened. not necessarily before every ride, but often enough to keep my thoughts off it while i ride like my hair is on fire.

the problem was i couldnt even lay eyes on it without pulling the left fairing and looking through between the frame and engine. let alone place an easily spotted mark to check.

in the end, it became more of a hassle than i felt like dealing with. i wasnt comfortable getting it adjusted with 100% confidence, and keeping my eye on it was a chore. so i just bought a new oem cct, installed that and deal with the idea ill have to likely replace it at some point in the future.

popping the throttle bodies lose was as simple as loosening the four screws on the boots. then pulling them up and pushing them over a little opened up a lot more clearance for me to get a purchase on the top cct bolt with my wrench.

ive the flapper mod and smog block off plates done, so pulling the air box and velocity stacks is short work. twelve screws, two hoses and two electrical connectors.

for me, thats a quick way to make room in that area if there is something i cant get my hands on. :)
I agree with you sir, this would help one who has never tried it to be able to follow through. Thanks.:highclap::highclap:
 
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