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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, the workshop manual for my 09 blade (not ABS) says to replace the caliper mounting bolts on changing pads, apparently they're "stretch bolts" and they're not cheap. Is it really necessary to replace them after one or two undo/tighten cycles?
:idunno:

Chrs, stegzzz
 

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I haven't heard that before.
If it is the case and they need replacing with the pads, that is a lot different to changing them after "one or two undo cycles".
I would have mine out 20 or 30 times for new tyres, cleaning etc before i change pads. And i have not replaced the bolts.
 

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The manual does in fact say to replace them, I have had them off 10 times or more on my 99 RR. I am still using the original bolts, I just loctite them when I reinstall them and have never had a problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yep, the manual definitely says change them and also on removing calipers for a wheel change. I guess it's a good thing if you can but I'm not paying over £25 the dealer wants for the bolts! Maybe I'll try a specialist nut&bolt company to get the same spec as the honda bolts. I have used thread lock before but it can be tricky to get the bolts out again!

Chrs, stegzzz
 

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Do the caliper mounting bolts or the torx pinch bolts have to be any special type or grade of steel (A2, A4,etc.)? What exactly are 'stretch bolts'? I'm not too keen on paying the inflated dealer prices either, so I was wondering whether a set of M8 25mm bolts from Screwfix or somewhere would do the job.
Just don't want them to snap at 120 mph and the last thought I have is how I should have spent the extra few quid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Do the caliper mounting bolts or the torx pinch bolts have to be any special type or grade of steel (A2, A4,etc.)? What exactly are 'stretch bolts'? I'm not too keen on paying the inflated dealer prices either, so I was wondering whether a set of M8 25mm bolts from Screwfix or somewhere would do the job.
Just don't want them to snap at 120 mph and the last thought I have is how I should have spent the extra few quid.
Hmm, 120mph brake caliper falls off, no fun! I think a stretch bolt means it is designed to hold its position due to elastic tension after tightening to the correct torque and in this case that property changes after tightening for the second time. I guess there is some special grade of material but I don't know what it is. For now I've stuck with the originals on the basis that nearly everyone does after changing tyres, brake pads etc but I'm not entirely happy with it.
 

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Any grade 8 stainless bolt will suffice.
If you check load figures for an 8mm grade 8 bolt you never approach the shear force
while braking.

All bolts stretch when torqued, its how screw fasteners work.
I am using shouldered grade 8 stainless socket capscrews on my track bike and they hold up just fine, no loc-tite required, they never come loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Any grade 8 stainless bolt will suffice.
If you check load figures for an 8mm grade 8 bolt you never approach the shear force
while braking.

All bolts stretch when torqued, its how screw fasteners work.
I am using shouldered grade 8 stainless socket capscrews on my track bike and they hold up just fine, no loc-tite required, they never come loose.
Thanks, this make sense, but what about replacement; do you think it is really necessary to replace on each change as suggested in the workshop manual, or is this complete overkill?
 

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Not sure how reliable this is, but here is some info on stainless bolts:

Keeping It All Together, Part 1

He says that the reason not to reuse the bolts is that the threads will bind in the mating hole (whatever that means). Towards the end he recommends against using SS on critical areas.
 
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