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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I'm new to the forum and also only had my RR-V for 2 months (loving it!) and need some help.

The bike is not charging properly. When I first bought it I found after a short ride (5-10mins) when I tried to start the bike the battery was dead. I had similar problem with my Hornet as the previous owner had hardly riden the bike the battery was dead so I replaced it with a new one. This did not solve problem and the battery was still not charging properly.

I have tested the stator from the three yellow leads at the connector under the seat and am getting 65V AC at 5,000rpm which is within specification. But I was only getting 12V across the battery terminals so thought the rectifier was at fault.

I bought a new rectifier and fitted it but the battery is still not charging properly when riden. If I connect a battery charger then it takes a full charge and reads 13V and starts fine. I was on a ride the other night (40mins) and all was fine but when I got home I thought I would check if it would start and although I had ridden all the way home and the lights were working etc it would not start. The bike just turned over a couple of times and then clicked and then nothing (although lights still working - so battery not completely dead).

So I charged battery next day to get some life into it to start the bike again. So still 65V AC coming from Stator but only 13V across the battery terminals (when manual says should be 14.5-15V).

Any ideas - is my new rectifier dead (don't really want to shell out for another!) or could there be some other problem?
 

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Hi all, I'm new to the forum and also only had my RR-V for 2 months (loving it!) and need some help.

The bike is not charging properly. When I first bought it I found after a short ride (5-10mins) when I tried to start the bike the battery was dead. I had similar problem with my Hornet as the previous owner had hardly riden the bike the battery was dead so I replaced it with a new one. This did not solve problem and the battery was still not charging properly.

I have tested the stator from the three yellow leads at the connector under the seat and am getting 65V AC at 5,000rpm which is within specification. But I was only getting 12V across the battery terminals so thought the rectifier was at fault.

I bought a new rectifier and fitted it but the battery is still not charging properly when riden. If I connect a battery charger then it takes a full charge and reads 13V and starts fine. I was on a ride the other night (40mins) and all was fine but when I got home I thought I would check if it would start and although I had ridden all the way home and the lights were working etc it would not start. The bike just turned over a couple of times and then clicked and then nothing (although lights still working - so battery not completely dead).

So I charged battery next day to get some life into it to start the bike again. So still 65V AC coming from Stator but only 13V across the battery terminals (when manual says should be 14.5-15V).

Any ideas - is my new rectifier dead (don't really want to shell out for another!) or could there be some other problem?

Measure the voltage coming out of the regulator. If it's right then you have a problem in the wiring between the regulator and the battery and harness.
 

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Mine puts between 13.3 - 14,5v at any revs depending on headlight selection. Bit low but despite lots of short trips the battery is always at 12.9v whenever I check it. Maybe yours is fine too?

Otherwise check all plugs, connectors and wiring in the charging circuit. Consider replacing the earth direct to the battery an the live through a separate 30A fuse to the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Many thanks for help. So, with headlights off at idle 13-13.5V at battery and coming out of Recitifier. Take revs up to 5,000rpm and both reading at Rectifier and battery rises to 14-14.5V. However with just main headlights on (not high beam) the reading drops and the most that comes out of the rectifier is 12V even at 5,000rpm.

Does this mean my new rectifier is dead or is there another problem?
 

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More like a dead or dying coil in the alternator stator. 65v AC is a bit low, shoud be nearer 80 - 90v AC (but, that does depend on the accuracy of your meter, cheap meters do have a problem reading AC properly).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, thanks for this. I have looked in the manual and it doesn't specify an AC Voltage output to test the Alternator. Instead there is a continuity and resistance test. I have tested the resistance between each of the three yellow wires at the connector under the seat and I am getting 0.01 on each. (manual says 0.1-0.3) Does this mean I have a problem? Also stupid question, I did this with engine off, is that correct?

How do you do a continuity test?

Sorry for all the questions and I'm grateful for help.
 

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This is interesting. Did you sort out the problem yet? If so, what was the final "answer" or fix you found? If not, try following this flow chart to help pin things down.
Fault Finding Guide - Motorcycle Electrical Fault Finding Chart - ElectroSport
You can click on the PDF link at the bottom and it walks you through testing your system, very systematically. Hope this helps!
Michael in Aurora, CO (USA)
 

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i had a similar problem with my 600 f sport (f4i) did all the usual checks etc all reading good at 5k rpm etc, found the fault was, when the engine was revved higher than 5k the charge rate dropped turned out to be regulator rectifier fault wasnt giving correct charge at full rev range. try higer and lower rev range before you rule out reg fault, also check all earths are good on the looms.
 

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I have tested the resistance between each of the three yellow wires at the connector under the seat and I am getting 0.01 on each. (manual says 0.1-0.3) Does this mean I have a problem? Also stupid question, I did this with engine off, is that correct?
To check the resistance you must measure it with the engine off as you don't want to damage your meter.
BUT
Just as importantly you MUST disconnect the plug on the alternator cable before measuring or you could be measuring something else's resistance further up the cable.

The reading of 0.01 could indicate a problem if you have a high end meter, but it is more likely to be 'good enough ' reading of the coil resistance to show they are not broken. Most meters will show the coil resistance as effectively 0Ω. The problem with that is that if you shorted the wires directly at the plug you'd get the same reading, so what this reading won't show is if the insulation on the coils has broken down and allowed them to short out.
Firstly compare all three resistance readings between all three wires, are they all reasonably the same? then you can assume-ish they are ok. If 2 of them showed 0.2 and 1 showed 0.01 then I would be suspicious.
Now measure all 3 wires to the case, you should get an infinite resistance reading the same as having the wires touching nothing. Any reading here you've lost insulation somewhere.
Ideally this check should be done with a Mega resistance checker to be really sure but if you get a reading with a home meter you definitely have problems.

Next check the output AC voltage whilst the engine is running (reconnect the stator obviously) , again you must check all 3 wires against each other, check all your readings are reasonably the same. If at this point you are happy they all match I'd move to the regulator. Don't assume because you measure a specified AC voltage at one pair everything is ok. There are 3 coils in the windings all producing their own output, they must all be checked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the assistance - really appreciate it. Just to give an update, I eventually ran out of talent and got a pro round (the very helpful Mark from Mobile Motorcycle Repair Workshop - Croydon | M-Tec Motorcycles) and he confirmed that it was the generator/stator that was the problem. Although the AC Voltage readings suggested it was ok, all three phases were shorting to earth - which is apparently conclusive proof the Stator is dead. So new one on order from http://www.electrexworld.co.uk and hopefully I'll be back on the road by the weekend!

Thanks again for advice - if I knew better how to use a multi-meter the advice from here would have been all I needed.
 

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Glad you came back and told us. Cool.
Props to Mollari on his well written post. They sure don't explain that in the manual.

Reading through, this thread is an excellent guide for troubleshooting the charging system. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Another update with some more helpful advice...

A new OEM generator/stator from Honda is £360! so my mechanic ordered one from www.electrexworld.co.uk who seem to be the only people who make replacement parts at around £100. However beware.. you need more information to order the correct one than just your model nos. For example my bike is an RRV and we waited 2 weeks for the part to arrive only to find it didn't fit - they do two products G52 and G89 which are both listed against the RRV so you need to know the diameter of your stator to get the correct one.

My better suggestion though is the guys at Westcountry Windings they will re-wind and recondition your old stator and have a 3 day turnaround. They really know their stuff and can also supply Electrex units as well and will make sure you get the right one!

New part due in post any day, so desperate to get back on 2 wheels again, at least my bike is clean, as polishing it is all I've been able to do for weeks!
 
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